Bulkheads

Hi All,
I've started cutting the rust out of my bulkhead and found much of the upper inner section is gone, including windscreen supports and vent panel. These are bits that YRM and others don't make repair sections for.
What are good replacement bulkhead options these days? My buddy got a shielder galvanised one a couple of years back and it's never fitted "quite right", the door aperature isn't quite right - but I'm not sure if that's the bulkhead or whether he just didn't "fettle" it all properly. Seems early ones were poor, but maybe layter ones fit OK?

1. What are good options for new bulkheads these days? For example, is this one from bearmach reasonable?

2.I guess it’s shielder - are they a decent fit these days, esp if I choose non galv?

3. I have a 1989 V8 - what are the differences on the tunnel compared to that bearbach one?

Many thanks
Matt

I would go for the bearmach un-galvanised one and paint it well.
Or - there are 2 brothers in the Lossiemouth area that make high quality bulkheads but the lead time is like forever, and they don't advertise

Thanks. Yeah, I am debating the best course of action. Not doing a re-chassis yet, but it's on the cards in perhaps a couple of years - so sort of just debating whether to do bukhead now or patch it and then replace when I do the chassis. Wings, doors & roof are already off, so it's as accessible as it's going to be for a while.

The galvanizing is not what made the bulkheads not fit properly it was incorrect from the start so you would have had issues glav or not. If you are going to all of the effort to replace the bulkhead I would not even entertain the though of one that is not galvanized!
Although I have no first hand experience there has been some talk that shielder have now sorted out the problem and it was some incorrect jig parts used during manufacture so the current ones are better and have less issues.

I will stress again however do not even consider going to all the expense and effort to replace it with an ungalvnaised one.

Ta. I'll patch for now and replace when I do the chassis then.

MattYorke said:

Ta. I'll patch for now and replace when I do the chassis then.

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Find a company & ask how long it takes to make 1. It can take months. Order 1 well before thinking of starting a build.

I'm doing same job just now on an S2 got the top rail folded up and also the vent section at local metal place here in Portugal cost 28€ just got to work out how to do corners of vent flap recess..you can buy complete top section to weld to bottom...

dag019 said:

The galvanizing is not what made the bulkheads not fit properly it was incorrect from the start so you would have had issues glav or not. If you are going to all of the effort to replace the bulkhead I would not even entertain the though of one that is not galvanized!
Although I have no first hand experience there has been some talk that shielder have now sorted out the problem and it was some incorrect jig parts used during manufacture so the current ones are better and have less issues.

I will stress again however do not even consider going to all the expense and effort to replace it with an ungalvnaised one.

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Curiously it was an independent Landy specialist in the area that put me onto the concept of un-galvanised bulkheads - it is all that they will supply and fit. You want galv - order it yourself.

Beneagles said:

Curiously it was an independent Landy specialist in the area that put me onto the concept of un-galvanised bulkheads - it is all that they will supply and fit. You want galv - order it yourself.

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I wonder if they won't fit galvanised because distortion makes them harder to fit? If so you could understand their reluctance to give a fixed price for the work.

Dr Strangeglove said:

I wonder if they won't fit galvanised because distortion makes them harder to fit? If so you could understand their reluctance to give a fixed price for the work.

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I would guess the same as if it didnt fit and you supplied it it's your problem to sort not theirs...

Dr Strangeglove said:

I wonder if they won't fit galvanised because distortion makes them harder to fit? If so you could understand their reluctance to give a fixed price for the work.

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Possibly, but I also wonder if they reckon that people just fit and forget if it is galvanised whereas if you have to paint it you are more likely to maintain it afterwards. I know that happens with galv chassis's

Beneagles said:

Possibly, but I also wonder if they reckon that people just fit and forget if it is galvanised whereas if you have to paint it you are more likely to maintain it afterwards. I know that happens with galv chassis's

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If they fit and supply non-galve but say get your own galve means they will fit it but any probs are yours not theirs...so if it fits it's on if it doesnt take it back..

Either way, Bearmach unfortunately don't do un-galv Series 3 bulkheads....yet. Bet they introduce them after I finish mine!!

I'm with dag019. If you're changing the bulkhead go galvanised. Unless, you're selling it! If your Landy is a keeper, then it's a no brainer.

Al2O3 said:

I'm with dag019. If you're changing the bulkhead go galvanised. Unless, you're selling it! If your Landy is a keeper, then it's a no brainer.

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Even if selling it galv will add a premium becasue you can say it has a galv one fitted. Same as a galv chassis will add more value than a new chassis.

dag019 said:

Even if selling it galv will add a premium becasue you can say it has a galv one fitted. Same as a galv chassis will add more value than a new chassis.

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Yes, I agree My thought was that it might not be enough of a premium to make it worth the hassle, given that he can get a non galv one easily and is struggling to get a galv one. It would still sell well with a new bulkhead. He'd get more for a galv bulkhead, but given his circumstances, would the extra recouped from the sale be worth the hassle of getting one?. That's down to the OP's point of view.

There was a cheap bulkhead going on sales and wants

It's a keeper (had it 13 years so far). I will patch the current bulkhead for now and do a proper galv bulkhead at the same time as I do a (galvanised) chassis - when it's due. I've been saying for the last 13 years that it'll probably need a new chassis in a couple of years.

MattYorke said:

It's a keeper (had it 13 years so far). I will patch the current bulkhead for now and do a proper galv bulkhead at the same time as I do a (galvanised) chassis - when it's due. I've been saying for the last 13 years that it'll probably need a new chassis in a couple of years.

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I will say that despite all the scare stories about them not fitting I have just fitted a galv bulkhead to my fire damage rebuild. Although it was a refurbished rather than new one it went in with no more effort than I would expect any other bulkhead swap to go. A bit of pulling and punching to get the bolts though but when you consider land rover tolerances was not too bad. I would not expect any swap to just bolt up perfectly, neither the bulkhead or chassis were that accurate when in the factory and years of use later things will have settled and moved slightly.

MattYorke said:

It's a keeper (had it 13 years so far). I will patch the current bulkhead for now and do a proper galv bulkhead at the same time as I do a (galvanised) chassis - when it's due. I've been saying for the last 13 years that it'll probably need a new chassis in a couple of years.

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I'd echo what dag019 has just said. I doubt it'll be any harder than fitting a non galv one. My galv one went on no bother, even though it was a rebuilt 200Tdi one and I ordered a 300Tdi. On that note, I don't know if your 1989 model had door switches. If not, get a slightly later bulkhead and you'll be able to have door switch activated interior lights and alarm.