Bulk head outrigger taller than the chassis.

On replacing the outrigger on the driver's side It was about 15-20mm to tall so had to put a weld line in to attach it to the chassis. Next job is tackle the other side which looked OK so that meant it was rusty rubbish. My question is, why is the outrigger which is a standard series Britpart basically to tall. I have seen similar instances on EBay with people showing the underneath of the Landy they were trying to sell. To put things into some sort of context the Land is a bit of a mix starting with the series 2 chassis (1959) but has suffered the well meaning addition of a series 3 bulkhead back in 1989.
I ask, as I am about to order another outrigger which is easy enough to weld in but looks odd sticking down.
Any insights appreciated.

The long wheelbase chassis is deeper than the short so is it there are two sizes of outrigger?

Maybe they make a "One size fits all". That said I thought you would get a choice. maybe some on more knowledgeable will be able to enlighten us. But it is a good point about the LWB, I did not know it had a deeper chassis, but that makes sense. I have seen many diagrams showing the relative proportions of the chassis but non of them ever gave the actual depth of the main frame.

The LWB chassis is significanlty taller - about 1 1/2". When I needed an outrigger in a hurry I could only get one size and it was too short so the welder made up an extra section, its a neat job but was a lot of extra work. It sounds like this is the same problem the other way. Are they listing SWB and LWB options or just one size fits (or doesn't fit) all? If you have to use one that's too deep then cut it off at the correct depth and weld a plate on it.

I consider Britpart riggers as a starting point. They need a lot of modification to look even close to original, but for quick and dirty just prop every thing, cut away the bad, bolt up the new and weld.

Not good, but gets it out the door.

That's been my experince, BP are well made enough but are a starting point. On the LWB military rears you have to cut off the spring hanger and put the old one on.

"Just weld and go" I actually think that is good advice. I agree you could cut extra parts out but at the end of the day there is still a substantial amount of weld in all the right places. Also when I look back I am horrified at the tiny amount of rusty metal that was still attached and I was driving it, so anything is a massive improvement. The previous owner disguised the rust very well, a hammer and 14inch screwdriver eventually reviled the truth. As an aside I was nearly electrocuted when I started to angle grind and and cut it out at the chassis, as about 2 pints of water poured and thankfully tripped the fuse box.