Broken cable, front O/S door latch

:behindsofa:

Hi Guys....I believe the cable from the interior door handle to the latch has broken on my 2002, TD4, 5 door ES.
Removed the handle shroud and can see that the operating cable is missing from the lever.
Had one go on my P38 some years ago and that was an easy fix. Having a quick look at RAVE it appears that the latch has to be removed in order to open a "Security cover" to enable the "Eye" end of the cable to be attached. Also the pop rivets securing the operating handle need to be drilled out to remove the handle assembly.
Has anyone replaced the cable and found a quicker way to do it ??
Suprisingly, all of the suppliers I called do not carry the cable in stock (LR factory order) but Brit-Car ordered one late yesterday afternoon and I will have it Monday.

For information here are details of the parts that I ordered: (All genuine LR)

Cable (Fits both L.H. & R.H. Front doors) FQZ000110 £11.35
Plastic Clip (On door latch-cable hooks onto it) FYC100520 £0.27
Plastic Clip (Secures cable outer to latch) FYC100560 £0.54
**Prices plus VAT**
Bought the clips just in case one or both of them have broken as I have not removed the door card yet to see exactly what has gone and in view of the low cost, decided to cover all/most eventualities

Cable etc. arrived today and decided to fit it.....What an ar***ole of a job
As you would expect, decided to follow RAVE and soon found an error in the write up for the Latch removal section. RAVE says to remove the two bolts from the window regulator rear rail and move out of the way for extra access-WRONG !! , the rail will not move as the window clamp holds it solid and the rail will not move. I found that the window needs to be lowered in order to access the two glass clamp bolts. Slacken the bolts and lift the glass to the closed position by hand and secure with masking tape or similar. Next, remove the five bolts and wiring connector to the regulator assembly and then move the assembly aside (Towards the front of the door). Access to the latch and linkage connections is greatly improved but still confined. Removal of the linkages is fiddly but not too bad. Both the sill button and outer operating rods are unclipped from the latch by forcing them out of their plastic retainers towards the outer panel of the door. After removal of the 3 Torx screws on the door edge, gravity will cause the latch to drop and the wiring connector can be disconnected and the latch removed from the door. Replacement of the cable is straightforward.
When it comes to refitting, things get a bit trickier...Firstly, gravity is working against you and there is only enough room to do the job one handed. Keep one of the Latch Torx screws to hand, lift the latch into roughly it's home position, the first job with the drivers door is to feel the shaft from the outer handle lock barrel and locate it into the receptacle at the top of the latch. Fit the Torx screw when this is done, but leave the screw loose, otherwise the lock barrel shaf will probably come out of it's location. Next, ensuring the blue plastic clip is pointing upwards, locate and snap the outer door handle rod fully into position..You will feel it "Click" home. Next, locate and snap the sill button rod into the green plastic clip and "Click" home. Refit electrical connector to latch and remaining two Torx screws and tighten. Feed the interior handle release cable through the round hole in the door skin and locate in plastic clip. Refit the window regulator bolts (5) and clamp the glass. Raise & lower the window to ensure nothing is fouling or trapped, leave window in closed position.
The interior handle is secured to the door with two Pop rivets which need to be drilled out....after removal, I opened the holes out in the door and fitted two M5 Rivnuts to make future handle removal easier. The hooked end of the cable can now be attached and the handle refastened to the door panel.
In view of the lack of response to the post, I assume that other members have not suffered from a broken cable hence the above write up.
The other doors will be a bit easier as they do not have the operating shaft from the lock barrel, but be aware that it will still be fiddly.......UNLESS-you are a Gynocologist !! :hysterically_laughi
Good Luck

Thanks for this. I’ve got to do this job soon. Dreading it!!! I appreciate this is an old post but are you still about? Coukd do with some tips