brakes not braking

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manlikelandy said:
hello i got a 1962 109 what the brakes dont work. hase new shoos slave cylinders and all new brake pipes and a rebut master cylnder . no ristance on the pedel until the bottom and if i pump it there is less ristance as i found out the master cylinder is returning slowly brakes have bean bled and adjusted as mutch as i can get them. anybody come across this befor and know a fix? thanks
Click to expand...

Strip down master cylinder and recheck...then check flexi pipes make sure they're not ballooning then move to slave cylinders it's a simple system
 
Tall Ratbag said:
The nipple being at the bottom is normal on these brakes on a 109, and is not actually a problem. The real problem with bleeding this type of brake is that an air bubble can get trapped in the wheel cylinders, and you have to do something that's a bit odd to deal with it.

If you take the drums off, adjust the brakes fully OFF with the adjusters on the back plate, and use a ratchet strap or similar to force the brake shoes fully back, you push the wheel cylinder pistons fully back, you force all the air and fluid back out of the cylinder, into the small bore piping,and then, these brakes bleed really easily. Obviously, when you put the drums back on, you then need to adjust the shoes back out in the normal way.

Quite often; even on here; you'll see people suggesting that you need to adjust the brakes fully on before bleeding; that just makes the air bubble in the wheel cylinder problem worse.
Click to expand...
thats haw i bled them but i done it by my self i jammed the peddle down then opened the blead nipple also bled it from the top fitting in the pipe that goes from the top cylinder to the bottom one.
 
Shippers said:
Strip down master cylinder and recheck...then check flexi pipes make sure they're not ballooning then move to slave cylinders it's a simple system
Click to expand...
flexie pipes are new slave cylinders are new but thay are britpart ones but i herd those are of for a coppel of years. if i cant get it fixed soon will look at the master cylnder
 
manlikelandy said:
thats haw i bled them but i done it by my self i jammed the peddle down then opened the blead nipple also bled it from the top fitting in the pipe that goes from the top cylinder to the bottom one.
Click to expand...
If your doing it yourself get a bleed kit that has a non - return valve in it or make one up you will struggle to get a pedal jamming it down...
 
steve2286w said:
www.screwfix.com

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something like these leaving a gap of about 6mm will be enough to clamp on without damage

if you pump pedal 5 times does pedal feel firm

have you got the 2 springs to return pedal back up
Click to expand...
i have done thar right frunt rock solid left frunt tiny bit squishy rear goes to the floor. defently sonthing wrong with the rear brakes ordered a pipe with a valve in it like shippers suggested hophely gust a bleeding problem
 
please can you confirm you have :-
tested pedal with all 3 clamps on and pedal solid
removed front right clamp and pedal good
removed front left bled and got a little air out and still squashy
removed rear clamp and got a little air out and still no pedal

this suggests lots air in rear pipes still, and you need to bleed again, Ensure adjusters are fully off or remove drums and tie clip the pistons to keep them in and the air out
 
I wonder if you have a flipped seal in the master?

Can you use a pressure bleeder on it's reservoir type?

I brought a really cheap weed sprayer (like 6 pounds) and used an old master cylinder lid (on my Disco 1) with a good seal and fitted the hose to it, with a tube nut on the inside, that pokes down to about the "max"level of the reservoir so you can lower the reservoir level after pressure bleeding - release the sprayer pressure, and remove the pump, so the fluid can siphon out of the reservoir, down to the max level. Obviously it has to be sealed very well, and be careful of pressurized fluid!

I put a litre (or more!) of fluid in the sprayer, fit the lid carefully to the reservoir and pump up some pressure.

As the reservoir empties, the sprayer feeds in more fluid, while you go to each wheel and just open the bleeder, no pumping required. I ran about 4 litres through my disco 1, before all the bubbles were gone.
 
steve2286w said:
please can you confirm you have :-
tested pedal with all 3 clamps on and pedal solid
removed front right clamp and pedal good
removed front left bled and got a little air out and still squashy
removed rear clamp and got a little air out and still no pedal

this suggests lots air in rear pipes still, and you need to bleed again, Ensure adjusters are fully off or remove drums and tie clip the pistons to keep them in and the air out
Click to expand...
sorry for the late reply did not toutch the frunt left only hase i minuscule of movement in it i bled the rear repeatedly for about 2 hours in total had the drums off adjusters off and had a cuppel of zipties around the shue.
 
AllanWorms said:
I wonder if you have a flipped seal in the master?

Can you use a pressure bleeder on it's reservoir type?

I brought a really cheap weed sprayer (like 6 pounds) and used an old master cylinder lid (on my Disco 1) with a good seal and fitted the hose to it, with a tube nut on the inside, that pokes down to about the "max"level of the reservoir so you can lower the reservoir level after pressure bleeding - release the sprayer pressure, and remove the pump, so the fluid can siphon out of the reservoir, down to the max level. Obviously it has to be sealed very well, and be careful of pressurized fluid!

I put a litre (or more!) of fluid in the sprayer, fit the lid carefully to the reservoir and pump up some pressure.

As the reservoir empties, the sprayer feeds in more fluid, while you go to each wheel and just open the bleeder, no pumping required. I ran about 4 litres through my disco 1, before all the bubbles were gone.
Click to expand...
will try if i can find aweed killer sprayer. defiantly will kill those pesky weeds after :)
 
What is going on there?

A new member with no other posts seems to have copy and pasted part of my post about the hoses from page 1.
 
Last edited:
just a update hade a brain wave at collage today and thought if it could be the spring in the master cylinder hase gon week over the years so got home took it apart and stretched it out and now it works fine. nether herd of that being a problem on them so thats a new one but thanks for the help guys. probly be a good idear to replace the master given the problem what do you think?
 
well done if it’s working keep your eye on it if it loses its pressure or sticks then maybe time for a new one , but get a decent make if you do like girdling, TRW etc
 
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