brake worry

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matt1987

New Member
Posts
442
Location
norfolk
Evening guys

I would just like some clafication on the brake pump run times and abs light to diminish on first start up etc

I have search the threads and I have come to the conclusion that the acculator or air in the system is at fault

The vehicle is doozel 97 with abs no traction

Brakes work and stop the vehicle on a sixth pence

The pump runs for approx 10-20 secs on start up I have tested this with a fully depressurised system just now

Once driving the abs light goes out approx at 10-15mph and sometimes stays on for up to 20seconds but that depend how quick I set off in the morning. after initial start up it is out by 10mph and on for 5sec tops when you set off I'm assuming this is to do with how long the pump is working on start up?

Once into a journey I can apply the brakes twice then the pump runs for a brief moment say 3-5sec and then stops until I apply the brakes twice more and so on

Now I'm fearing the pump is running to much and I don't want to burn it out and cost me Mega bucks if I can prevent it

It had new pads all round last year and I bleed the brakes using a pressure brake bleeder (bad I know but was short on time the noise has been the same before and since the bleeding)

So any advice or suggestion welcome

Many thanks

Matt
 
I wouldn't worry, change the the accumulator and may see no difference:p or maybe 1 or 2 brake applies if any;)
 
So druim you think that my list of operation is ok I get no sponge feeling at all it is nice and firm pedal at all times

Any others
 
You wont prevent the pump running on by servicing the hydraulic system.
Although it's good practice.

The main cause of the pump to run on is if the ABS Relay switch melts together and remains on. What causes this is unknown- manufacturer fault, heat in the fuse box, duff relays, driving style (automatics heavier use of brakes as people dont select down for hills, holding on the brakes at traffic lights)....etc

It's one of those things that will just happen and if you can hear it while driving then great because it gives you time to stop, switch off, check and pull the fuse and relay before anymore damage gets done. If you catch it quick enough you may be lucky and be able to replace with the Spare ABS relay you keep in your glovebox and continue your journey. If you dont then its a new pump and possibly recovery home!

Spongey brakes is just replacing old brake fluid with good quality stuff, checking plumbing for leaks (and clutch slave if manual) and changing the accumulator to maintain a healthy pressure without constant use of the pump.
 
matt1987 said:
Evening guys

I would just like some clafication on the brake pump run times and abs light to diminish on first start up etc

I have search the threads and I have come to the conclusion that the acculator or air in the system is at fault

The vehicle is doozel 97 with abs no traction

Brakes work and stop the vehicle on a sixth pence

The pump runs for approx 10-20 secs on start up I have tested this with a fully depressurised system just now

Once driving the abs light goes out approx at 10-15mph and sometimes stays on for up to 20seconds but that depend how quick I set off in the morning. after initial start up it is out by 10mph and on for 5sec tops when you set off I'm assuming this is to do with how long the pump is working on start up?

Once into a journey I can apply the brakes twice then the pump runs for a brief moment say 3-5sec and then stops until I apply the brakes twice more and so on

Now I'm fearing the pump is running to much and I don't want to burn it out and cost me Mega bucks if I can prevent it

It had new pads all round last year and I bleed the brakes using a pressure brake bleeder (bad I know but was short on time the noise has been the same before and since the bleeding)

So any advice or suggestion welcome

Many thanks

Matt
Click to expand...

What you describe is exactly how my car behaves (2.5DT, 95, no traction).

My pump used to come on every time the brake pedal was pressed, I changed the accumulator and now it is every third press or so, exactly as yours is - so it is possible that your accumulator is fine.

I suspect air in my brake system somewhere, I have never bled it and really must get around to doing this. As far as your RR is concerned, I think bleeding the brakes exactly as given in the procedure in RAVE is the next step, but it doesn't really sound like you have much to worry about...

ABS light behaviour is also normal I think, it stays on until it detects that it is getting readings from the 4 wheel sensors.


Cheers,

Jerry
 
Brake pump can run for up to 40 seconds if vehicle has been left standing. Red lamp will go out when minimum system pressure is reached but pump will continue after that. ABS lamp comes on for a fraction of a second, blinks out and comes back on, that is the ABS check phase. It will not go out again until signals from all four wheel sensors are received at approx 7 to 10 mph. I would say what you describe is normal operation. If you really want to be pedantic make sure all the wheel sensors are pushed in to touch the reluctor rings. That should make the ABS lamp go off sooner.
 
Last edited:
Hi guys thanks for all the info I was just worried if the pump would burn out but as others have said it sound normal I think I will bleed system as per rave and purchase a abs relay just out of interest which relay is it ?

I have more pressing issues at present was driving and heard a squeeky noise rolled down front window and traced it to nsf pop to the parents to use the drive and mothers tea sercices jacked nsf and boy o boy clunk clunk in vertical and horizontal planes grab the old an to give it a wiggle and sure bet wheel bearing fooked I checked all mot bits 8 weeks ago and not a whisper of play sent to mot and nothing mentioned done approx 800miles and it homes so stripped out at the parents looking sorry for it self and awaiting new bearing to be pressed in monday / tuesday so I'm stuck with the partner ford ka as transport
 
The black siemens relay in the fuse box. 30 -40 squid new.

Good luck with the bearing...one down 3 to go ....
 
Are you having a laugh 30-40 quid for a poorly manufactured relay sounds great

As for the bearing assembly it did involve me and the old man a roofing felt torch and a big bottle of gas a big hammer plenty of swings and great news it took 2.5hrs to remove and I'm a techie too I have never had a bearing assembly rusted in like that well let's hope the bearing comes out nicely
 
matt1987 said:
Are you having a laugh 30-40 quid for a poorly manufactured relay sounds great

As for the bearing assembly it did involve me and the old man a roofing felt torch and a big bottle of gas a big hammer plenty of swings and great news it took 2.5hrs to remove and I'm a techie too I have never had a bearing assembly rusted in like that well let's hope the bearing comes out nicely
Click to expand...

If you were a mechanic you would have gotten it out with a fag lighter and a toffee hammer. 30 tons should shift it. :D:D:D
 
Wammers you must remember us new age techie never see vehicles that get near the 151k miles which my rangie has covered it is more like 5 yrs old and mileage range from 5k to 90k normally the jobs are easier on a ramp and when.the.windy gun is in hand
 
matt1987 said:
Wammers you must remember us new age techie never see vehicles that get near the 151k miles which my rangie has covered it is more like 5 yrs old and mileage range from 5k to 90k normally the jobs are easier on a ramp and when.the.windy gun is in hand
Click to expand...

Yeah know what you mean, it was just a leg tug. Some of the pillocks at Land rover technical or any other manufacturer for that matter, want to try working to their standard times sheets on an older vehicle. :)
 
I know what you mean wammers old cars on original time scales is impossible unless when.jobs have been carried out before the tech uses his brain and preps surfaces and cleans threads and a bit.of grease makes the job easier next time round. I must admit I do this on new cars as I could be the fecker doing the job in 2/3 yrs times again
 
matt1987 said:
I know what you mean wammers old cars on original time scales is impossible unless when.jobs have been carried out before the tech uses his brain and preps surfaces and cleans threads and a bit.of grease makes the job easier next time round. I must admit I do this on new cars as I could be the fecker doing the job in 2/3 yrs times again
Click to expand...

Copaslip is a mechanics best friend. Along with the welding plant of course. And a 4 pound toffee hammer. :):)
 
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