brake troubles

hi
just looking for some ideas on why my brake peddle is always almost on the floor and only has about 1 inch of travel.
it has all new system apart from the master cylinder (double type) and the fluid devider things and have bled it about 4 times with little effect
p.s. if it is the master cylinder are the seal kits any good or am i better off getting a new unit
cheers, alistair

probably a stupid thing but have you got the return spring on the pedal?

yes there's 2 on the pedal but theres no resistance to speak of until the last inch of the pedal

are they all stretched out then....

check brake adjustment before bleeding any more fluid through.

Is the rod adjusted proper on the master cyl...duno why series brakes are so simple and yet so akward and anoying...Like wimin...cant do wivout emm though...

I have the same prob....

Changed rear brake pads at the weekend as O/S axle seal was leaking, so did the bearings/seals etc...

Put all back to gether, adjusted shoes to the point just before the drums locked, but wheels turned easily, tried the brakes and pedal goes to floor, bleed rear brakes, some air, pedal goes to floor, but one pump and pedal and brakes are sound, release pedal, and push it, then it goes to the floor, again one pump and it stops sweet.....



Never had this prob with disc brakes.........

One thing you might try - it's the devil's work to get the air out the loop where the flexible pipe joins to the pipe on the back axle. The trick seems to be to raise the rear end about two feet off the ground whilst bleeding the rear brakes. You could use a hi-lift jack but I just put the sling from my engine hoist around the tow hitch (usual disclaimer about not getting underneath it unless it is properly supported etc.) - worth a try?

cheers to all
p.s.
the springs are fine.
no matter how many times i pump the pedal nothing happens.
must have had a gallon of fluid through them.
the ajusters are full off and the new shoes and drums are just binding.

was the pedal OK before you started tinkering.

it woz like this when a bought it

crank yer adjusters reet up then jump on the pedal to centralise the shoes. once you've done that adjust as normal. if you can't get all the air oot the system. jack up the rear as high as you can then wedge the pedal doon overnight. then bled as normal. repeat with the fronts

use twa o them ferm jacks... works a treet...

Just a thought you have put the springs back right in the drums, have you?
What Cod basher described sounds like springs in the wrong place.
Ps
The Ezblead kit is good

do you know where a could get a diagram of the propper set up for the gubbins inside the drum because i wasnt me that changed them last
p.s. the ezblead kit is a bit expensive for all ill ever use it

Have a look at this fred and this link
Fred
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/series-2a-brakes-locking-31415-2.html

Link
Land Rover Range Rover Parts & Accessories | Discovery Parts Defender

Lots os nice pics
http://www.4x4store-exeter.co.uk/catalog/The%204x4 store series cat/diags_intro.htm

Ps
After you have tried to bleed the brakes for a couple of weeks and they are still soft, £20 for a Eazybleed is worth it.

I put everything back exactly as they came out, cant say for certain that they were in correctly in the first place though.....

A strip down and rethink at the weekend methinks....

clivees said:

Have a look at this fred and this link
Fred
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/series-2a-brakes-locking-31415-2.html

Link
Land Rover Range Rover Parts & Accessories | Discovery Parts Defender

Lots os nice pics
Series Parts

Ps
After you have tried to bleed the brakes for a couple of weeks and they are still soft, £20 for a Eazybleed is worth it.

Click to expand...

I must be thinking of a different bleed kit. where did you get yours cause i canny find one even on ebay

eBay.co.uk: GUNSONS EEZIBLEED BRAKE BLEEDER -BLEEDING MADE EASY (item 200080364174 end time 23-Feb-07 20:57:34 GMT)

You just arnt looking hard enuogh!

cause itz spelt funni )