L322 Brake pedal goes to the floor,

so today’s job was replacing the pads on all 4 corners of the rangie, easy job so wasn’t stressing,
All replaced with no dramas, jumped in the car to pump the brakes to take up the slack as you do, pedal to the floor the first few times as expected then hard pedal, great.
After a few seconds I pressed the pedal again and it went to the floor, thought that was odd so pumped and instantly I get pedal again,
Moved it on the drive and the pedal is fine if I brake whilst moving, as soon as I’m stationary I can get the pedal to the floor on the first push.
Am I missing something or is that the way they are?
Took it for a gentle test drive and brakes worked well, but again to the floor once stationary.

Ay up, did tou by any chance pop out a piston? Not to point a finger!!

No didn’t have any issues, all seemed to go well, can’t see any loss of fluid and once driving the pedal feels good not spongy,

youmitegetian said:

No didn’t have any issues, all seemed to go well, can’t see any loss of fluid and once driving the pedal feels good not spongy,

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It's a complex system on the L322, is there not a precharge pump for the ABS involved somewhere?

Beyond my knowledge Datatek, sort of feels normal but don’t remember it doing that before, as I said once driving it’s as before, maybe I should bleed the brakes anyway, the fluid seems pretty murky in the reservoir

youmitegetian said:

Beyond my knowledge Datatek, sort of feels normal but don’t remember it doing that before, as I said once driving it’s as before, maybe I should bleed the brakes anyway, the fluid seems pretty murky in the reservoir

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Brake fluid should be changed every couple of years but I'd be surprised if it's straightforward on the L322, the P38 is bad enough.

I’ve google it and seems straight forward, start on the nsf then osf nsr then osr I thought it would be more complicated

Normal common or garden set up.......but you will have needed to retract the pistons, and I presume by using a g-clamp, in itself no biggy but it should be done slowly.

I'd bleed the brakes, particularly if no history.

It should be good again after that.

Used a large set of swan neck pliers but didn’t seem to be a problem, maybe it did it before, I’ll bleed it anyway just to be sure

This time I'd undo the nipples before squishing the pistons back.
I've had this before when fluid is ancient.
Ancient fluid guaranteed to have air in it, from converting the inherent moisture within the fluid to steam, then air pockets reside.

If you are mentally cack handed and force the piston back as if it's a time trial, then that could upset things possibly, like the fabled master cylinder seal lip reversal.

Lol I could well be mentally cack handed.
I’ll bleed the system and hope it works

Next logical step I'm afraid.

It's no different to a Mondeo or Vectra.

@youmitegetian related but no idea of bearing on brake pedal. Whilst you've been in at things,did you check , or have you previously checked the brake pipes? If not put it as a starred to do, soonest.

Is this the TD6/4.4 or 4.2 S/C?

Yeah pipes all look good, checked the underside while it was up in the air for mot last week,
It’s the td6, sold the S/C begrudgingly,
I’m seriously looking into getting a tdv8, can’t stand the ratttling noisy td6 and fancy some more performance.

youmitegetian said:

It’s the td6

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Then single bleed nipples all round.

You mean you sold the S/C without offering it here?

Yeah put it on gumtree to see what interest I had and sold it that afternoon, seems 300,000 miles didn’t put everyone off,
Regretted selling it the next time I started up the td6

TD6 will eat your soul, guaranteed.

Serves you right for not accepting my offer to take S/C off your hands for a small quick profit.

May your brakes be buggered completely.

Haha yeah sorry about that, got 4500 for it, should of chucked the money straight into a tdv8 lol

£3500 profit changes people.