Brake issues. Interchangable disks?

I got hold of the whole assembly from the swivel housing to the hub today to replace one side (my swivel housing was shot and decided it'd be easier to replace the whole lot. How wrong was I!)
Trouble is, it's off an older model without ABS. My RR has ABS.
Is there any difference between the disk / hub assembly on the ABS and non ABS RRC's?

Basically I want to put my old ABS disk/bearings/etc onto this new non-abs setup.
(As a side note, my ABS doesn't work anyway so that doesn't matter)

The 'new' disk on there is just a standard disk, where as my previous disk was vented (and thicker). I've bled the brakes a few times this evening thinking my trouble is with trapped air but it's made no difference to the brake pedal. It goes right to the floor consistently, no matter how much I bleed it or pump the brakes. Could this be a symptom of the thinner disk on the front - i.e. the pistons are protruding too far out and therefore not functioning? They don't leak fluid or air though
And they DO grip the disk when the pedal's to the floor.
Maybe I'm just bleeding them wrong, though I'd have thought it would have made at least some difference. I did NSR, OSR, NSF, OSF, then actuator, then the two bleed nipples on the M/C. I just guessed at this cause I didn't have access to the RAVE at the time.

I'm stumped.

Sounds like you still have an air pocket somewhere.Try pressure bleeding.

Dubrover said:

I got hold of the whole assembly from the swivel housing to the hub today to replace one side (my swivel housing was shot and decided it'd be easier to replace the whole lot. How wrong was I!)
Trouble is, it's off an older model without ABS. My RR has ABS.
Is there any difference between the disk / hub assembly on the ABS and non ABS RRC's?

Basically I want to put my old ABS disk/bearings/etc onto this new non-abs setup.
(As a side note, my ABS doesn't work anyway so that doesn't matter)

The 'new' disk on there is just a standard disk, where as my previous disk was vented (and thicker). I've bled the brakes a few times this evening thinking my trouble is with trapped air but it's made no difference to the brake pedal. It goes right to the floor consistently, no matter how much I bleed it or pump the brakes. Could this be a symptom of the thinner disk on the front - i.e. the pistons are protruding too far out and therefore not functioning? They don't leak fluid or air though
And they DO grip the disk when the pedal's to the floor.
Maybe I'm just bleeding them wrong, though I'd have thought it would have made at least some difference. I did NSR, OSR, NSF, OSF, then actuator, then the two bleed nipples on the M/C. I just guessed at this cause I didn't have access to the RAVE at the time.

I'm stumped.

Click to expand...

are you bleeding the brakes with the engine running or not.

I seem to recall that the swivil, swivil housing and stub axle are all different, to accomodate the ABS sensoe and sensor ring.
But my concern is if you have a thin solid disc one side and a thick vented disc the other, you are going to have imbalenced brakes and the thing is likely to 'pull' when braking.
You say the ABS doesn't work any way... that doesn't sound good, and on a road car if ABS is fitted... should work, or you are driving a vehicle with 'defective brakes' contrary to the RTA....
Bleeding an ABS system is a niggly job; you have to use an EZ-Bleed, and depressurise the system before bleeding, then run around a lot following the EXACT procedure in the book, between the bleed nipples on the calipers, ABS block and booster.
And I suspect that is where your 'apparent' trouble lies.
Before you sort that though, first, brand new discs are barely a tenner each, why use second hand.
Next, you can overhaul a caliper for about £30.... why risk a second hand and INCORRECT caliper and disc?
Start again, and do the job PROPERLY, with teh propper parts on BOTH sides so that the thing a) works b) isn't dangerouse.
Here, have a look at this, may help:- Take a Brake!
Getting the ABS to work, usual problem is at the back, ABS trigger wheel is exposed, but hidden inside the back of the disc where it collects crud and brake dust, usually a lot of iron filings from the brake disc wearing, and clogs so that the sensor cant get a signal off it. Stripping and cleaning normally sorts them out.

Cheers for the replies guys, I wasn't going to run this thing permanently I just REALLY needed it today so I thought as a temporary fix I could stick everything on there.

Teflon - the caliper is the original caliper, I made sure I retained that so that I could swap back to my vented disk.
Only things that are different are the swivel ball, housing, stub axle, and disk.

I didn't bleed the brakes with the engine running, no. I did it with the ignition on though.

What's the correct procedure for bleeding?
I can see two nipples on the M/C and one on the accumulator, when do these get bled?
My RAVE won't load anymore for some reason so any help much appreciated.

I cant remember the exact procedure for belleding, but it starts by depressurising the system; ignition off, so the booster wont prime, and pumping the pedal something like 60 odd times to get the pressure out of the lines.
Then I THINK you bleed the booster, then do the caliper, then the ABS valve, THEN the caliper again, and FINALLY the booster again....
If you are going to swap the disc back you may as well do that first, becouse its a ball-ache job, and you'll probably flush about 2-3litres of fluid through the system in the doing of, and it REALLY is a job for an EZ-Bleed, becouse of the complications of the valving.
Its in the haynes some-where, or try opening the raw PDF files on your rave disc.

Will the disk swap straight over or do I need to change the stub axle too?

I'll see if I can find it in the raw pdf, I didn't think of that. Cheers

I wish I'd just bought all new parts now. So much for money/time saving!