Brake conundrum

Ummmm.....

Never read the Haynes book of lies for the freelander.... But normally brake cylinders need you to push the pedal to move them out....

They could be a spring in them i suppose. I never band rear cylinders when doing shoes etc. and I did my hippo a couple of weeks ago. Mine is an early one I suppose post 2001 could be different as the shoes and drums are different.

I have a set of 2001 on shoes for sale... Gonna post a for sale ad in a little while in The right section!

True, the Haynes manual is as useful as a bucket of dead octopus. Wonder if anybody else's move.
Mike

Just checked the parts online. Different cylinder for pre and post 2001 models. Doesn't say what the difference is though.

The whole brake system changed for the 2000 (or 2001 forget which year it was) model.

Vented discs up front and different drum shape, different shoes and different cylinders,

2001, mine is a 2000 and got old school brakes

Nodge68 said:

Who knows. My V6 has a similar conundrum. If I drive it through deep water, the nearside rear sticks on. Once it's dried out it's fine. I've stripped, cleaned and lubed the entire assembly 3 times. I've found nothing wrong, it just sticks when it's wet.

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I have a similar problem when launching / retrieving the boat. If I've got a drive home, it dries itself out, but if I'm just going back to the camp site and leave the car parked up the rears are locked in the morning. Makes a right bang when they give!

In fact most damage to my Freelander is done with the boat! Lost both wing mirror covers and various gouges in the paintwork from manouvering the boat.

After wading if you are parking immediately or soon after it is best to park with the handbrake off and leave it in gear (wheels chocked if need be).

The freelander shoes seem to suffer from de lamination of the leading edges of the rear shoes. This causes the brakes to stick of left for a while as well.

Ive had this happen after jet washing the wheels...drove of could feel left rear rubbing, pulled the hand brake up and it got stuck and wheel locked up. Stopped and it released itself. ..

Skinny Mike said:

Worth checking, although the cylinder seemed to work fine. Pushed the pistons in and they pushed themselves back out in approx 10 seconds. Didn't seem to be to much pressure needed to move them. But while I'm doing the rest suppose it would be daft not too.
Mike

Click to expand...

I have known this to happen in the past and always used to put a band around them or clamp the hose.

Good to know. One thing off the list.

I might just add it only happened to me now im in mondo mode....if prop and vcu fitted, is it possible to lock the rears up? As the 4x4 drive train would just pull it all free....

Would it not?

You can lock the brakes on but the wheels still turn. Hence the clouds of smoke. Hate to think what its done to the rear dif though.
Mike

That's what I thought......seems if you get water in them they can lock...mine are in good nick...maybe the water hydro locks them somehow....as the wheel spins the water gets thrown around the drum thus making the gap between drum and shoe minimal. ...can this happen?



Just read this on google....sounds more likely.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drum_brake

Disadvantages part

" Drum brakes can be grabby if the drum surface gets light rust or if the brake is cold and damp, giving the pad material greater friction. Grabbing can be so severe that the tires skid and continue to skid even when the pedal is released. Grab is the opposite of fade: when the pad friction goes up, the self-assisting nature of the brakes causes application force to go up. If the pad friction and self-amplification are high enough, the brake stay engaged due to self-application, even when the external application force is released"

My physics ain't that good. Is there a brainy person around?

When it was smoking were the wheels actually turning?

When I got mine it was mondo and sat while I rebuilt the head.. When I came to move it I couldn't get off my gravel drive because the back brakes had locked on so solidly. I had to get the wife's car to tow the freelander off (it's only a puma)

Yup
Wheels were going round.

have you changed the fluid in the last 2 years it may have crap in the line ,do you have abs ,its a crock of worms that you really need to sort out

Fluid has been done and yes abs. Wife has just got home and it's driven OK all day. No excess heat from the brakes, handbrake worked fine. Think I might have to give it a couple of days then strip it down again to see if anything has moved.
Mike

rear drum brakes use a self servo action or "self wrapping" to increase braking pressure to the drum, the leading shoe is grabbed by the drum and pulled closer to the drum by this action, if a drum is slightly rusty or the shoe is slightly over adjusted or even sometimes on a colder morning where the drum is slightly contracted this self servo action occurs when driving normally the shoe heats up and expands thus pulling closer to the drum, thus getting hotter so pulling on more and so on until it locks up or sets on fire, its quite common in over adjusted hgv brakes and Ive had it on my freelander with a bit of crap on the brake shoe lining.

Cheers mate
Taking it all to pieces again over the weekend. Going to check everything against landrover settings / pictures etc. Will report back.
Thankyou again for your interest.
Mike