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Boot floor welding

Discussion in 'Land Rover Discovery' started by kungpow1975, Jul 2, 2010.

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  1. kungpow1975

    kungpow1975 New Member

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    Im replacing my boot, got the old one out but now need to weld the new one in, any precautions to be taken when welding in cars (like unplugging things) so i dont fry my electrics
     
  2. gR@HaM

    gR@HaM Well-Known Member

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    Watch out for the tank (especially if petrol) also you have 2 fuel lines and wirilung loom running from drivers side and brake pipes from rear axle towards n/side.
    You're probably more at risk of doing damage whilst cutting the original floor out especially if you don't know exactly where everything is under the floor. Oh and you'll prob have the electrics from fuel sender unit running through the middle xmember (well I did anyway).
    I actually bolted mine down although removed the tank whilst doing all the patch work and welding in new seats for the floor panel to bolt through. After putting the fuel tank back in I covered it with domestic fire blanket during any welding as the tank is very easy to melt!
     
  3. kungpow1975

    kungpow1975 New Member

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    so did you just bolt your boot floor down?
     
  4. gR@HaM

    gR@HaM Well-Known Member

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    Yep although watch out it's very contraversal on 'ere!!
     
  5. robint

    robint Well-Known Member

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    werz te cyder applez do grow zomerzet


    just to add ...........

    its not an mot test requirement ..........

    but the rear belt mounts pass through it ............
     
  6. gR@HaM

    gR@HaM Well-Known Member

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  7. kungpow1975

    kungpow1975 New Member

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    I have decided to use Self tapping bolts and builders grade waterproof adhesive to put it in , gonna use the full pack of 100 of the bolts and if they moan I will argue that it would be stronger than a poxy spot weld every 8 inches, I Could understand a seam weld being stronger but then its the pain in the arse to remove when the panel rusts again.

    Que the controversy below...
     
  8. mickdj

    mickdj New Member

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    Just use a surge protector about £10 and with how much welding you`ll do you`ll soon get fedup of disconecting your batterie and re seting ur clock and radio.
     
  9. gR@HaM

    gR@HaM Well-Known Member

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    Self tappers?!
    If you're not welding I'd at least bolt through and fix from both sides.
    I kinda went half way and welded bolts from the underneath, now whenever I need access I can undo from the inside and lift the floor out. Just need to make sure I've stopped all the leaks!
     
  10. Beast o Bodmin

    Beast o Bodmin Banned

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    never did like the welsh.....tom jones is also cra
    glue a sheet of alloy in.
     
  11. gR@HaM

    gR@HaM Well-Known Member

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    Prit stick??
     
  12. Beast o Bodmin

    Beast o Bodmin Banned

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    never did like the welsh.....tom jones is also cra
    why not.....
     
  13. string

    string Member

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    I had to cut the original lip out so had to weld a new one in, was difficult to do as I only have a basic rod welding kit. After that I used a tack weld every 3" all round the floor pan then plastered the underside seam with a good mastic sealant. Where the cross pieces go I used 3mm pop rivets just to stop them vibrating. Passed the MOT with flying colours. Will give the whole underside a good waxoyl before the winter.
     
  14. Disco Moneypit

    Disco Moneypit New Member

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    So am I the only person to have done the job properly and seam welded all four sides of the boot floor?
     
  15. kungpow1975

    kungpow1975 New Member

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    when i removed my old one it was spot welded every 10 inches and was rusted all around them so theoretically the new boot panel is a hell of a lot more secure,

    1. Self tapping bolts(with nylon lockers on the tother side, just couldnt be bothered to drill the hole) all around the horizontal surfaces.

    2.rivets all around the vertical sides

    3.evo - stick serious stuff ultra between all ajoining surfaces.

    4.a couple of coats of hammerite on the interior side

    5.a couple of coats of hammerite undercarriage on the underneath of the panel to make sure it lasts another 15 years.

    EDIT: I must also add that it passed its MOT with the abomination of the old boot floor and it had no carpet or soundproofing when it went in. so it was in plain sight, So surely having a boot that is securely fixed in (but not welded) is much better than not having a boot at all (like it was).
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2010
  16. WolfyDave

    WolfyDave New Member

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    I welded my new boot floor in to original specs....spot welded every inch and a half,heads then ground off,all edges seam sealered.Then primed,painted and laquered boot floor. Looks like it has just come out of the factory.
     
  17. bugbog101

    bugbog101 Member

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    You've prob got your floor in by now, but a good tip is to give the top of the chassis a good clean & re paint whilst it is accessible.
     
  18. gR@HaM

    gR@HaM Well-Known Member

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    Like this? [he says trawling through the photo archive...] :) :D

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