Boost alloys on an early 110, and a tyre size question...

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Hard-Drive

Hard-Drive

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My 110 currently sits on 235/85/16 road tyres and grey modulars. I also have a set of FX racing 5 spokes with 265/75/16 Mud Terrain copies. These aren't actually fitted to the vehicle as the additional tyre size means it won't fit in the garage due to height issues (yes it's that close!). So I really want to look out for some 235/85/16 mud tyres and some second hand Boost alloys to change the look a bit (and sell the FX wheels/tyres). However, as my 110 is an early one (drums on the back, larger front flanges) the alloys won't quite fit on the front.

I have two questions:

1-Tyre size. If I get myself some 235/85/16 mud tyres, is the sizing accurate between different brands/styles of tyres? As I said, the garage clearance is bloody tight, and I don't want to go to all that effort and then find out it won't fit as my new 235s are "big" 235s! In mountain biking circles, sometimes there's a huge difference in the size of tyres that are alledgedly the same size.

2-Alloy fitment. The FX wheels are really, really close to fitting...I've been told if I take the flange bolts out, remove the washers, and grind the bolt heads down a bit, I should be good. Has anyone fitted Boost alloys to an early 110, and if so, how? I'm keen to avoid spacers if possible.

Thanks
 
Hard-Drive said:
My 110 currently sits on 235/85/16 road tyres and grey modulars. I also have a set of FX racing 5 spokes with 265/75/16 Mud Terrain copies. These aren't actually fitted to the vehicle as the additional tyre size means it won't fit in the garage due to height issues (yes it's that close!). So I really want to look out for some 235/85/16 mud tyres and some second hand Boost alloys to change the look a bit (and sell the FX wheels/tyres). However, as my 110 is an early one (drums on the back, larger front flanges) the alloys won't quite fit on the front.

I have two questions:

1-Tyre size. If I get myself some 235/85/16 mud tyres, is the sizing accurate between different brands/styles of tyres? As I said, the garage clearance is bloody tight, and I don't want to go to all that effort and then find out it won't fit as my new 235s are "big" 235s! In mountain biking circles, sometimes there's a huge difference in the size of tyres that are alledgedly the same size.

2-Alloy fitment. The FX wheels are really, really close to fitting...I've been told if I take the flange bolts out, remove the washers, and grind the bolt heads down a bit, I should be good. Has anyone fitted Boost alloys to an early 110, and if so, how? I'm keen to avoid spacers if possible.

Thanks
Click to expand...
1. Yes sizing is different between brands... I was reading a comparison between 2 mud tyres and there was about an inch plus difference oddly enough.
2. Not sure, I have the same and I was always under the impression its the drums on the back which causes the issues with boost alloys, all new ones have discs all around hence no issue, you seem to be of the opposite view.
 
phone Charles at JCS wheels and tyres, Stapleforfd , Nottingham, if he can't help you id be supprised.
 
ER1C said:
1. Yes sizing is different between brands... I was reading a comparison between 2 mud tyres and there was about an inch plus difference oddly enough.
2. Not sure, I have the same and I was always under the impression its the drums on the back which causes the issues with boost alloys, all new ones have discs all around hence no issue, you seem to be of the opposite view.
Click to expand...
Hmmm...thanks for the sizing issue. That's a worry though! Will have to measure carefully first. I can't speak for Boosts as I don't have any, but the FXs go on the back fine (I know as I've tried them) but not the front.

Marmaduke said:
Personally I'd go down the spacer route as I wouldn't want to bugger around with wheel studs
Click to expand...
I'm not going to bugger around with wheel studs, I'm talking about grinding the halfshaft flange bolts. I'd much rather do that than fit spacers!

300bhp/ton said:
A 235/85R16 is typically taller than a 265/75R16.
Click to expand...
Are you sure? Mine really look the other way around. But the 235s are very road focussed, and the 265s are Insa Turbo Traction Tracks...do they include the tread blocks when sizing?

Foxyred said:
phone Charles at JCS wheels and tyres, Stapleforfd , Nottingham, if he can't help you id be supprised.
Click to expand...
Nice one, thanks
 
There is no standard way of measuring a tyre height. Most mainstream makers like BFG will list the heights on their data sheets, which you can find on their websites. But remoulds can vary widely. So you'd need to physically measure the ones you are interested in.

But yes, if you do the maths then a 235 is slightly taller. In practice they are normally anything up to half an inch taller, but narrower. But will vary from brand to brand.

If you want a shorter tyre you may want to consider something like a 255/65 or 255/70
 
Hmmm, in that case I will measure the 235 spare and one of the 265s tomorrow. The 265s seemed MUCH taller when it was wheeled up against one of the 235s on the truck...of course I the tyres deform with the vehicle weight, but it looked more than that as a difference.

If the 265s are shorter, I'll just try the flange bolt trick and put them on as is...not worth faffing around! Thanks!
 
Well I've measured them this morning and 300bhp/ton is right (thanks very much for pointing that out!). I measured circumference as without some kind of giant caliper arrangement I didn't think I could get an accurate diameter measurement, but both tyre sizes are as near as dammit 2530mm in circumference. So I reckon I'll just stick them on as they are if I can grind down the flange bolt heads slightly, or worst case scenario, fit spacers.

And I assume if the circumferences are that close, I could in theory just stick with one of the 235s as a spare in the short term? I only have 4 alloys/265s, and although ultimately I'll get another MT tyre as a spare (Insa Turbo Traction Track), the roadie will do as a "get me home" I assume?
 
Yeah, spare only needs to be about the same height.

Tyres height will vary a lot from different tread patterns to different makes. My Uncle has some 238/85's that are MASSIVE... and some that are tiny.

This picture says it all, the 3 middle tyres are all the same size...
 
Hmmm...things progress and get more complicated...

Basically, some Boosts have come up, and this is still my preferred wheel, but I'd just swap my 265s onto them, sell my road wheels and my FX alloys. However, having had a good trawl of various forums, unless I swap axles to later ones, getting the wheels on will involve a compromise somewhere. So I'm now back to thinking about just doing it with wheel spacers instead. So my questions...

1-Should I go for hubcentric or non-hubcentric?
2-Do I need 30mm or is 15mm enough?
3-Say I go for 30mm, will 265/65/16 tyres still fit under the arches on full articluation on standard suspension? I fitted the same size to my old Disco 1 (as well as a 2" suspension lift) but it still needed a "camel cut" to the very back of the rear arches to avoid rubbing

I appreciate there are pros and cons of spacers...more lock but more load, more mud up the sides, more to come undone, and my insurance company need to know (have checked and they are fine, no additional premium) but right now this seems the best way. Even if I did surgery to the flange bolts, I can't have the wheel centre caps without the spacers, and TBH they'd look a bit pants without them.

Thanks!
 
300bhp/ton said:
Yeah, spare only needs to be about the same height.

Tyres height will vary a lot from different tread patterns to different makes. My Uncle has some 238/85's that are MASSIVE... and some that are tiny.

This picture says it all, the 3 middle tyres are all the same size...
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I have found. When you actually measure the tyres, the sizes vary a lot within same size on the sidewall.
A 7.50 16 measures between 7" and 8.5" across the actual tread blocks. And varies up to 1 1/2" in diameter.
 
Just change the studs on the rears - it is really easy to do. I've just changed all of mine in order to fit wolfs.
 
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