boiled linseed oil

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Peanut butter also works but goes mouldy, so best to use peanut oil instead as this is the active ingredient. But in my experience heat gun is longest lasting.
 
While doing the linseed treatment I also whiped over the carbonat lenses, also the outside rearvidew mirror covers, the door handles, the whiper bars, the roofrack bars and the black side steps, it all starts to look new again. :rolleyes::D

Funny thing, in my previous post (#25) the smilies didn't work. In this last one they're ok, at least they were, as I do edit now to add this last line the smilies that earlier were ok show up again now as :rolleyes: :D ???? Hard to understand.
 
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I think he means for your smily, :D :) D) not :d

Oh, I see. Yesterday was kind of dark overhere, that's why I didn't see it. :D:D:D Thanks.:) (But what made me wonder was that I never put the smilies in via symbol/letter combination, always by clicking on the smilies themselves, so why did it refuse, in post #25, to show the smiley and showed instead a lowercase :d ??:(:(:()
 
Linseed oil (boiled or otherwise) is perfect for cricket-bats, but I think I'll stick to Autoglym's Bumper & Trim Gel, for my Freelander's plasticy bits! :rolleyes:

Singvogel. :cool:

Just used the MER bumber & trim gel , That worked really well and made my 12 year old faded bumpers like new again :)

Don't think I would use linseed oil !
 
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Damn it, DTO, you stole my thumder.

I just used the MER over the past week, looks much better after a couple of applications, but does leave the bumpers a bit greasy feeling for a few days.

£5.99 from the local car shop.
 
When I used to tart up hearses we used the green slime bumper/rubber trim restorer from Autoglym and that was by far the best out of all of them. Now I'd just use oil like linseed, nut oil or a hot air gun for a more lasting finish.
 
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