Bleeding Td4 Clutch

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tlc22

New Member
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29
As fighting the gear stick had become near impossible, and the clutch biting point was buried in the carpet somewhere, decided to have a go at bleeding the clutch.

Nothing useful in the workshop manual, and research showed that the Hydraulics are sold as a sealed unit!! but that bleeding was possible according to a number of forums.

Getting access to pull of the Master Cylinder cap to the reservoir is best described as tight, but as the lid is 'squishy' rubber and the soundproofing foam flexible, it is possible to get the lid off, this showed the fluid level to be low. Topping up with some fluid (using a very small container) and pumping the Clutch pedal gain some improvement ( from impossible gears to stiff) and confirmed that is was likely the hydraulics at fault.

Tracing round the pipe routing to over the top of the G Box, found the location of the bleed nipple. Not a lot of room around this area and found it impossible to get a tube over the nipple. Access from Nearside wing.:)

For bleeding you will need a 13mm open spanner and 8mm ring, put the 13mm spanner on the nut behind the bleed nipple to hold the pipe steady while you loosen/tighten the bleed nipple, and the 8mm on the bleed nipple.

Loosen nipple and get you assistant to depress the clutch pedal, he/she will need to lever up the pedal with toe of shoe as it will not spring back, pump for a few goes pushing fluid out of the nipple, make sure reservoir is full. ensure clutch is fully depressed and tighten bleed nipple fully.

A few pumps on the pedal, and for me normal service restored, clutch biting point normal, and smooth light gear changes
 
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