Bleeding Diesel

I have been trying to start my series 2.25 diesel, it has never ran since I first got it in october. I decided to change the Fuel filter but I can't work out how to bleed the system.
I found the manual fuel pump, could someone tell me were you are meant to I bleed the air from.

Also the heater plugs are not heating up, so I have ordered some new ones, the old ones would not heat up when directly connected to the battery. Providing I get the air out of the system is there anything else I should check/replace before trying to start it again.


Ta

Jim

crack the injectors off and bleed it through them, takes a while but does the job

Thanks yella I will give that a go

If your engine is good, it should fire up without the heater plugs. just takes a bit longer...i am lazy so when i bleed mine i just loosen the bleed bolt on the filter and crank until it fires, usually takes about 1 min(assuming you have only replaced the filter and not been fiddling with the inj pump)

Dead simple engines.. love em to bits....although sometimes would like to break it into bits myself

candpdoyle said:

I i bleed mine i just loosen the bleed bolt on the filter

Click to expand...

Where abouts on the filter is the bleed bolt

should be on top of the filter housing, size 17 spanner fits.. there should be a leak off pipe from it to the last injector..

candpdoyle said:

should be on top of the filter housing, size 17 spanner fits.. there should be a leak off pipe from it to the last injector..

Click to expand...

If it's a banjo union with a pipe attached that meets the injector leak-offs, then goes to the tank, then it's a cert the banjo nut is a self bleeder, and it's another cert the little hole that bleeds the air out is blocked.

Whip the nut off, clean it, find the little hole, and poke it through.

Once you put it back together the filter should self bleed.

CharlesY

Hopefully I have bled the system, I had to replace the glow plugs so while they were out I span the engine over and after a few turns diesel mist was being blowning out of each one of the glow plug holes.

But even with new glow plugs it still won't start, mines like chapgrills in that there is no measurable voltage thru the ballast resister.

crossa said:

Hopefully I have bled the system, I had to replace the glow plugs so while they were out I span the engine over and after a few turns diesel mist was being blowning out of each one of the glow plug holes.

But even with new glow plugs it still won't start, mines like chapgrills in that there is no measurable voltage thru the ballast resister.

Click to expand...

Well now, you boys have just got to get to grips with LECCY-TRICKERY!

Get together - you CAN solve the problems!

Charlesy

Yep I will continue my tales of woe using chapgrills thread.

After you've bled the fuel filter, you might need to bleed the Injector Pump as well. Use the 2 small bolts on the side of the pump, towards the front of the car. bottom one first, whilst manually pumping the fuel pump, until no air, retighten, then do the top bolt.

ffs spidey, hes done that bit, were now onto **** all power at the ballast resistor

It's been a long day. I'll get my coat.

did you get it sorted? mine is a pain. whats that drain tap at the bottom of the filter housing for? i opened mine on a whim whilst engine running and it stopped took an hour to bleed it again, late for breakfast as result!

If you mean the plastic one, its to let water out.

crossa said:

Yep I will continue my tales of woe using chapgrills thread.

Click to expand...

In the olden days of army trucks like Leyland Hippos, and AEC Militants, starting up from cold was never a strong feature.

We used the "flaming torch" technique. A piece of cotton rag was wound up into a small ball with a bit of 16th welding wire. The ball was an easy loose slip in fit to the air inlet manifold once the bonnet was up and the big rubber hose moved aside.

The ball got dipped in a can of Kerosene B, shake off the excess, placed into the inlet manifold, and set on fire with a match or lighter.

Then once a good flame was burning in the manifold, we turned on the starter, thus sucking all sorts of lovely hot flames and fumes and stuff right into the cylinders. Worked every time. It could hardly fail.

Mind you, I'm not saying you should try this on YOUR Landy, but I have tried it on mine ..... Have a bucket of water handy in case you set something on fire, and an empty beans can to put the torch into when the engine fires up.

CharlesY

candpdoyle said:

If your engine is good, it should fire up without the heater plugs. just takes a bit longer...i am lazy so when i bleed mine i just loosen the bleed bolt on the filter and crank until it fires, usually takes about 1 min(assuming you have only replaced the filter and not been fiddling with the inj pump)

Dead simple engines.. love em to bits....although sometimes would like to break it into bits myself

Click to expand...

I would not recommend the above for bleeding your diesel, or indeed any most diesels.

Cranking for a minute is excessive, most battery setups will not like it.

Not all diesels no matter how good they are will start without plugs, I know the 2.5NA would struggle something awful to start at any time of the year without them, this is not a measure of how good your engine is, its due to the design.

CharlesY said:

Mind you, I'm not saying you should try this on YOUR Landy, but I have tried it on mine ..... Have a bucket of water handy in case you set something on fire, and an empty beans can to put the torch into when the engine fires up.

CharlesY

Click to expand...

Bloody hell, good tale of old that CharlesY. My Grandfather used to use the same method for the tractors on the farm.
Mind you, we should all have a fully functional set of modern glow plugs these days! Can you imagine the insurance claim; "well I just inserted this burning rag into my inlet manifold......"

I've give up trying to start my engine for now as I have lots of new suspension and brake bits to put on first. When I have done that I will return to the Bleeding of the engine. I still do not know where the bleed screws are on the pump, so if anyone knows and would like to tell my that would be helpful.

Loads of farmers just dipped a little rag in kerosene, put in the air intake end of the manifold after taking off the air hose, and lit it. Then whirled the engine over on the starter. Sooner enough it would fire up and the engine would suck in and EAT the burning rag!

Worked a treat - but what might have been OK in a 1950s diesel tractor might not be so smart in a more modern engine.

CharlesY