Good evening,
As you may know, from my earlier post, I am about to embark on the adventure of changing the timing belt / water pump on my 2000 1.8 K series FL.
It may sound a little anal, but I do like to be prepared - so have read everything I can on doing this job.
About the only thing that casts a long shaddow in my mind is the thought of not getting the bleeding of the colling system right and frying the head gasket - which I understand the K series is particularly prone to.
The workshop manual advises removing the bleed tube from the inlet side of the head and blowing through to ensure the pin is not stuck.
Now, this is going to seem like a really obvious question, but I guess that you'll know it's stuck because you can't blow through it?
Also, if it is stuck, what's the best way to free it?
I did wonder about putting some cooling system flush in beforehand - given that the engine is so temperature prone, I guess that anyting you can do to keep the 'arteries' clear can only be good?
Cheers,
Ian.
As you may know, from my earlier post, I am about to embark on the adventure of changing the timing belt / water pump on my 2000 1.8 K series FL.
It may sound a little anal, but I do like to be prepared - so have read everything I can on doing this job.
About the only thing that casts a long shaddow in my mind is the thought of not getting the bleeding of the colling system right and frying the head gasket - which I understand the K series is particularly prone to.
The workshop manual advises removing the bleed tube from the inlet side of the head and blowing through to ensure the pin is not stuck.
Now, this is going to seem like a really obvious question, but I guess that you'll know it's stuck because you can't blow through it?
Also, if it is stuck, what's the best way to free it?
I did wonder about putting some cooling system flush in beforehand - given that the engine is so temperature prone, I guess that anyting you can do to keep the 'arteries' clear can only be good?
Cheers,
Ian.
