Black Smoke and low on power

Apologies if this is a regular question but I've done a search and I can't find the answer or any threads on the subject.

I've picked up my Defender TD5 after a new gearbox (the old one dropped its lay shaft) was fitted plus a change of transfer box with a change to 1.2 from 1.4 ration. (I didn't have the time to change the gear box myself and I got a local jobbing Landrover Specialist to change it for me. It's much quicker for him on his ramp and with a gearbox hoist etc.

My problem is that it's now smoking really badly. Black smoke at almost all throttle settings in all gears.

I've noticed that the pipes to and from the turbo to intercooler and to the inlet manifold are in very poor condition and I've heard that they can delaminate and collapse internally, so I've got some fancy silicon ones to change them. On the subject of air intake, I've just replaced the MAF sensor as the ECU was in 'assume a volume of air' mode and the MAF wasn't working at all. The data reader I had plugged in (as a favour) indicates that all the cylinders are firing correctly and that the MAF is now working and that fuel pressures and volumes (WERE when last checked) within normal tolerances.

I haven't blocked off the EGR yet but have bought a kit to do it and once that's done I will clean the MAD

I also need to check the waste gate is operating correctly.

There is a suspicion that the fuel pressure regulator may be leaking.

Is there anything else I need to check? I am assuming that the black smoke is over fuelling (or lack of air). either produces incomplete combustion.

Any suggestions please?

When I have had black smoke and low power on turbo diesels, it’s always came down to a split boost hose. If they are in poor condition anyway, they are where I would start.

Sounds like you are on the right lines for black smoke.
The only thing you didnt mention was the air filter condition.
Sort the easy bits first, air filter, EGR and pipes if you need them.
Fuelling is more involved.

Result!

In taking the old pipes out (I suspect that they were the original ones and have done over 180k miles...) I found that the pipe between intercooler and EGR was half off at the Intercooler end. It just fell off when I was taking the EGR off and by the look of it, it’s not been on and sealing properly for a while.

I fitted an EGR blanking kit. The only compromise is that I had to put the sealing plate at the end of the pipe where it joins the cooler on the front of the block/head. With my better quality tools all stolen I was scrabbling around for Allan keys and there’s no way one is going to get the two Allan bolts out of the cast iron manifold where the pipe connects across to the EGR with an Allan key...

The MAF was replaced a few weeks ago and I took the MAP out and gave it a good squirt with cleaner degreaser solvent. I’m assuming that if I can see down into it and see a tiny pipe end then that’s what I’m supposed to be seeing.

All back together and the only mishap is I’ve lost one of the plastic screws that retain the fan shroud. I thought they were all captive and put it down on the gravel drive and two fell out. I found one but the other is proving very elusive in the dusk light.

I took it out for a test drive and it’s a revelation. The new gearbox and transfer box with a 1.2 ratio are really quiet and it pulls strongly in all gears. The old gearbox had dropped a bearing or two on its layshaft and had been very whiny for a while.

I bought this Defender as a (unknown to me) neglected heap of junk. It came with piles of receipts for work done, but whoever did the work was an animal. I keep having to fix bodges by previous ‘mechanics’

However progress is being made. It’s slowly becoming a very driveable Defender.

I’m booking it in to get it chipped next.

Now that I've removed the EGR, how important is it to disconnect the electrical connections from the EGR modulators? I have sealed the ends of the vacuum pipes (that I assume were connected to the modulators) and therefore I imagine they will just be puffing and panting against nothing?

I suppose that if legislation changes and I need to put the EGR back, the modulators might have broken down by then so is the instruction to disconnect them a preservation issue?

If I need to disconnect them where are they? The photos of location I've found online are not very clear and obvious.

Latest result: It's doing well over 30 mpg. A revelation for this Defender. I'd heard about such economy figures but I haven't exactly been light footed the last few miles so it's a delight to report that the economy has been transformed along with the performance. Motorways and Dual carriageways now no longer need ear defenders. (Well it wasn’t quite that bad but it was close...)

j_g_uk said:

Now that I've removed the EGR, how important is it to disconnect the electrical connections from the EGR modulators? I have sealed the ends of the vacuum pipes (that I assume were connected to the modulators) and therefore I imagine they will just be puffing and panting against nothing?

I suppose that if legislation changes and I need to put the EGR back, the modulators might have broken down by then so is the instruction to disconnect them a preservation issue?

If I need to disconnect them where are they? The photos of location I've found online are not very clear and obvious.

Click to expand...

It's been a tad naughty to remove your EGR for a while now. Since last May, I think.

Hmm... Not what I’ve heard from my local Land Rover specialist?

Perhaps others will comment?

Al2O3 said:

It's been a tad naughty to remove your EGR for a while now. Since last May, I think.

Click to expand...

Plus 1

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/new-mot-rules-may-2018.325509/