Bingo, i think

Sorry to be pestering about this same issue for about a month now i think,
but it's almost gotten the better of me. the issue is this glowing exhaust
manifold on a 6 cylinder 2.6 litre series 3 rover. just a quick recap, i
have rebuilt the carby and distributor, and put a new exhaust on it this
morning.

i took the exhaust manifold off this morning to replace the
manifold-to-engine block gasket. while giving the manifold a bit of a clean,
i found a small crack in it. i sprayed some oil into the manifold which
seeped through and was visibile on the outside, so it is definitely letting
air into the exhaust. first question:

is this likely to cause the excessive manifold temperature and the
backfiring during decelleration?? (i am fairly certain the answer to both is
yes, but just want to be sure)

secondly, how do i fix this? i had a crack at arc-welding it with a standard
rod, but this just ate away at the manifold and didn't fuse with the
electrode metal at all. i stopped before i did to much damage. will i need
it professionally welded (mig or tig or something or other), or can i fill
it with exhaust glue or some such.

I think i have just about cracked the problem that has been buggin me for
over a month, and i can't thank you guys enough. hopefully this will be the
last question you'll hear from me for a while.

Thanks in Advance.

Samuel.

Samuel wrote:
>
> is this likely to cause the excessive manifold temperature and the
> backfiring during decelleration?? (i am fairly certain the answer to both is
> yes, but just want to be sure)

Certainly the backfiring and possibly the heat.

>
> secondly, how do i fix this? i had a crack at arc-welding it with a standard
> rod, but this just ate away at the manifold and didn't fuse with the
> electrode metal at all. i stopped before i did to much damage. will i need
> it professionally welded (mig or tig or something or other), or can i fill
> it with exhaust glue or some such.

Get some proper arc rods for use with cast iron (they will be a nickel
rod of some sort). You'll either want a DC welder or a high OCV AC
welder to do it successfully. It's well worth veeing out the crack
carefully and prehating the manifold before welding, then letting it
cool slowly.


--
EMB

> > is this likely to cause the excessive manifold temperature and the
> > backfiring during decelleration?? (i am fairly certain the answer to
both is
> > yes, but just want to be sure)
>
> Certainly the backfiring and possibly the heat.
>
> >
> > secondly, how do i fix this? i had a crack at arc-welding it with a
standard
> > rod, but this just ate away at the manifold and didn't fuse with the
> > electrode metal at all. i stopped before i did to much damage. will i
need
> > it professionally welded (mig or tig or something or other), or can i
fill
> > it with exhaust glue or some such.
>
> Get some proper arc rods for use with cast iron (they will be a nickel
> rod of some sort). You'll either want a DC welder or a high OCV AC
> welder to do it successfully. It's well worth veeing out the crack
> carefully and prehating the manifold before welding, then letting it
> cool slowly.

Thanks EMB. you have confirmed most of my suspicions. upon doing a little
google-research on cast-iron welding, i am leaning towards getting it done
professionally. i dont have access to a furnace to heat the manifold up, and
i only have a standard AC handyman arc welder, doesnt sound like it's up to
the task.

Cheers.

Sam.

"Samuel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> > is this likely to cause the excessive manifold temperature and the
>> > backfiring during decelleration?? (i am fairly certain the answer to
> both is
>> > yes, but just want to be sure)
>>
>> Certainly the backfiring and possibly the heat.
>>
>> >
>> > secondly, how do i fix this? i had a crack at arc-welding it with a
> standard
>> > rod, but this just ate away at the manifold and didn't fuse with the
>> > electrode metal at all. i stopped before i did to much damage. will i
> need
>> > it professionally welded (mig or tig or something or other), or can i
> fill
>> > it with exhaust glue or some such.
>>
>> Get some proper arc rods for use with cast iron (they will be a nickel
>> rod of some sort). You'll either want a DC welder or a high OCV AC
>> welder to do it successfully. It's well worth veeing out the crack
>> carefully and prehating the manifold before welding, then letting it
>> cool slowly.
>
> Thanks EMB. you have confirmed most of my suspicions. upon doing a little
> google-research on cast-iron welding, i am leaning towards getting it done
> professionally. i dont have access to a furnace to heat the manifold up,
> and
> i only have a standard AC handyman arc welder, doesnt sound like it's up
> to
> the task.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Sam.
>
>


Check out Ebay. Alex may alsop have one knocking around as he used to have a
2.6 which I think he broke.

Sis got 2 2.6 Engines from ebay for £10.51,,, jammey sod she is too.

Lee D

>
>
> Check out Ebay. Alex may alsop have one knocking around as he used to have
a
> 2.6 which I think he broke.
>
> Sis got 2 2.6 Engines from ebay for £10.51,,, jammey sod she is too.
>
> Lee D
>
>

i live in australia, and those 2.6 motors are getting very thin on the
ground here. all ex-army series 3's used the motor but i'd guess 90% of them
have been replaced with holdens and used as boat anchors etc. i can prolly
get a second-handy for under $50 (they want $275 for a newy), but if i can
repair it i will. i like doing that sort of stuff.

Cheers.

Sam.

Samuel wrote:

> i live in australia, and those 2.6 motors are getting very thin on the
> ground here. all ex-army series 3's used the motor but i'd guess 90% of them
> have been replaced with holdens and used as boat anchors etc. i can prolly
> get a second-handy for under $50 (they want $275 for a newy), but if i can
> repair it i will. i like doing that sort of stuff.

A SH one for $50 sounds pretty good. $50 wouldn't get me to even start
welding a manifold commercially - the time involved in doing even a
small crack properly is worth more than that, not to mention decent NiFe
welding rods at about $10 each.


--
EMB