BennehBoy's D2 adventure

Jesus. Getting so many flashbacks from looking at all these pics… you are dedicated to the cause!

Brake disk & pads replacement this weekend - along with a fluid flush.

I did the pads a few months back, but the disks were pretty worn (Drilled & Grooved ones) - front left has started to judder so I've a complete new set of drilled & grooved disks & performance pads to slap in.

Just went with TerraFirma, didn't pay the silly money they want for the 'wavy' disks as I honestly can't see what benefit those could have on a D2.

Well that was/is a fantastic post,well done Ben.With all that work you have done on the D2 it should last for many years, fingers crossed, ouch, couldn't resist.

Managed to get these fitted earlier - frees me some time up for the weekend...

Old vs New - you can see how worn they were and the lip on the edge...



First one fitted, new pads in, sliders re-greased, and fluid bled through, with help from 16yre old son who's finally becoming half useful.


Rinse repeat for the rest.

You can also see the sumo bars that I finally got round to fitting - had them in the shed almost 2 years.

Next upgrade is a LOF clutch slave that's meant to make the clutch a bit lighter, I'll be fitting that along with a Pioneer 4x4 flexible master to slave hose which makes bleeding things up a world easier. Will take some pics when the hose arrives, the slave cylinder again has been in the shed a while

I ought to clean the bugger at some point

My drivers door glass dropped into the door frame a few weeks back mid winding up. The steel clamped to the bottom of the glass that bolts to the winder mechanism had completely rotted out.

Managed to get a spare window for a fiver! Result, and got it replaced.

Here's what the one that came out looked like:

Had a god awful squeak from the back of the car for the last 2 weeks, turns out that the spare wheel carrier had cracked all the way around the top left hand bolt.

Probably quite easy to weld it up and put it back on but I think it would go again, because I have flipped it so my larger spare can fit on and not foul the rear wiper arm.

Anyhow, I bought an unfinished heavy duty carrier off ebay:


I had some arc rite zinc rich primer and black tractor enamel paint, so slapped it up after giving it a quick go over with a flap disk and some thinners



The finish is pretty awful as I didn't have any xylene thinners on hand, but the final paint is on thick so it should last longer than the car as it's in 6mm steel

Bennehboy said:

xylene thinners

Click to expand...

Same as Hammerite thinners. In case anyone else needs to know this info!

I'd have taken it to a local powder coaters, after having it blasted.

tilly2 said:

I'd have taken it to a local powder coaters, after having it blasted.

Click to expand...

Trouble is powder coating, like underseal, cracks and then hides stuff underneath. Like rust. It's OK if it never gets touched in anyway by anything.

Yeah, but its such a nice piece of metal

I think I prefer galv or paint to powder coat - I have powder coated front & rear HD bumpers, and sidesteps and it's all bubbled up with rust from underneath. Doesn't last 2 minutes with the salt they use on the roads round here.

I painted these as I had it to hand and wanted it on quickly, plus it's not really anywhere that can be seen hiding behind the spare.

Cheers for the hammerite thinners tip ss.

Bennehboy said:

I think I prefer galv or paint to powder coat - I have powder coated front & rear HD bumpers, and sidesteps and it's all bubbled up with rust from underneath. Doesn't last 2 minutes with the salt they use on the roads round here.

I painted these as I had it to hand and wanted it on quickly, plus it's not really anywhere that can be seen hiding behind the spare.

Cheers for the hammerite thinners tip ss.

Click to expand...

My pleasure!
And totally agree!

Gear selections have been a right pain for a little while, I snagged a new bias plate suspecting the usual cracked off upright and set to work to find my suspicions correct:



Amazing how much crap is in there given that all the gaiters are good.

Whack in the new one and gear changes are much better - well by R380 standards anyway.

Your gear lever seems well worn where the bias springs rub against it.
It was almost 5mm deep on either side of mine, so I filled the grooves with weld & filed it back to smooth.
The bias springs now stay in contact far better when in 3rd & 4th & the gearchange feels much better. there's also less rattle at idle.
Might be worth doing yours

Yeah it's worn but looks worse than it really is, it's ~1mm.

If it starts to rattle I'll whip it off and bang some weld on... I'll need to learn to use the mig I bought just before covid kicked in, never bought gas or wire!

I don't like bias springs, I would be tempted to remove. but at least they enabled me to kill some pool car fords over 30 years ago.

Flat out in first pull gear lever back straight (not into 2nd but into 4th ) clutch hated it, really bad gearboxes.

was
.1.3.5
2.4.R

My own car was Rootes group so had perfect change

Yeah that plate is a major weakness in what's already not a great solution, I had a slickshift fitted which has a much stronger support post, but for some reason it did not get along with my gearbox, I ended up with the selector ball being forced out of the plastic bush twice - first time I had to drop the box to retrieve it, second time I managed to fish it out with the aid of an endoscopic camera. No idea if it's just me who had these issues with the D2 slickshift.