Battery Fixing Bracket

May be a stupid question but has anyone had problems getting the bolt out of the bracket that holds the battery in place? Ive just replaced my battery but had to smash the plastic bracket because the metal bolt would not come out. Any ideas?

Mine was the opposite mate,
my battery was moving all over the place..

Soak it in WD40 top and bottom if you can get to both..

not sure its a safe place to heat it up..??

Thanks for that, but mine doesnt seem to have a nut at the bottom. Strange idea metal bolt in a plastic housing.

It is a Land Rover ...

dontyajustluvem said:

Thanks for that, but mine doesnt seem to have a nut at the bottom. Strange idea metal bolt in a plastic housing.

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there is a captive nut in the bottom but due to rust it siezes then just starts spinnig in the plastic housing below,cut the head of the bolt of mine then just knocked the rest through then just fitted bolt and nut with washers

dontyajustluvem said:

May be a stupid question but has anyone had problems getting the bolt out of the bracket that holds the battery in place?

Click to expand...

only anyone that has had to change the battery on their freelander....do a search, been covered many times before with peoples various fixes.......

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

"only anyone that has had to change the battery on their freelander...."

Not really, it should really be picked up on maintenance checks as the head usually corrodes and it is clearly visable.
I noticed after about 4-years that the bolt on my wife's 2006 TD4 was rusty so I removed it (it was tight but not siezed into place) and replaced it with SS one c/w copious amounts of copperslip. This means that when I do have to replace the battery (still on the original one) that I won't have any problems.

Common problem. Mines done it and not got around to drilling it out yet (summer job). Various fixes, I'm thinking maybe a j shaped roofing bolt if access is limited below and if there's nothing to catch. Or remove the whole tray and fix it properly.

Litch said:

"only anyone that has had to change the battery on their freelander...."

Not really, it should really be picked up on maintenance checks as the head usually corrodes and it is clearly visable.
I noticed after about 4-years that the bolt on my wife's 2006 TD4 was rusty so I removed it (it was tight but not siezed into place) and replaced it with SS one c/w copious amounts of copperslip. This means that when I do have to replace the battery (still on the original one) that I won't have any problems.

Click to expand...

Same here , doing a bit of preventative maintainance , tried to remove the nut and found it seized in the end i had to cut the head off with a small hacksaw i had to replace the clamp £6.00 from L R and i sorted a new nut and bolt and greased the threads !

Litch said:

"only anyone that has had to change the battery on their freelander...."

Not really, it should really be picked up on maintenance checks as the head usually corrodes and it is clearly visable.
I noticed after about 4-years that the bolt on my wife's 2006 TD4 was rusty so I removed it (it was tight but not siezed into place) and replaced it with SS one c/w copious amounts of copperslip. This means that when I do have to replace the battery (still on the original one) that I won't have any problems.

Click to expand...

Same here , doing a bit of preventative maintainance , tried to remove the nut and found it seized in the end i had to cut the head off with a small hacksaw i had to replace the clamp £6.00 from L R and i sorted a new nut and bolt and greased the threads !

Litch said:

"only anyone that has had to change the battery on their freelander...."

Not really, it should really be picked up on maintenance checks as the head usually corrodes and it is clearly visable.
I noticed after about 4-years that the bolt on my wife's 2006 TD4 was rusty so I removed it (it was tight but not siezed into place) and replaced it with SS one c/w copious amounts of copperslip. This means that when I do have to replace the battery (still on the original one) that I won't have any problems.

Click to expand...

hmmm.....so far only you that hasn't had the problem so well done!!

Just had the same problem with mine today. Battery died with all this cold. Battery retainer nut and bolt rusted in place. Had to cut head off. Now off out to get a new nut and bolt for battery retainer.
Thanks for info though, I was wondering how to get it out.

Just joined this forum, I'm sure I'll be back.

TD955i said:

Just had the same problem with mine today. Battery died with all this cold. Battery retainer nut and bolt rusted in place. Had to cut head off. Now off out to get a new nut and bolt for battery retainer.
Thanks for info though, I was wondering how to get it out.

Just joined this forum, I'm sure I'll be back.

Click to expand...

Update. Whilst out in garage I wondered if a medium hollow wall fixing would work. Result. It is just long enough and wide enough to secure the battery retainer block.

you really need a bolt and nut those batteries are heavy and if you are doing 70 and sudenly had to stop it would probably rip it out

As a matter of interest, my local MOT inspector told me that battery hold down clamps etc are NOT part of the MOT test.

Hi All, J shaped roofing bolt is spot on as suggested. I removed the battery as it wasn't clamped at all I used a junior hacksaw to hack the bolt head off and the remainder of the bolt was poked through. I then got a piece of 6 mm studding. (A long nut and bolt would do) Took the airbox off and poked the bolt through from the bottom with some araldite metal fix on it. Put the clamp on with a washer and nut and bolted it up. The clamp now unclamps and the bolt stays on place. Just keep it lubricated and it should be ok...

This is an old thread, but I finally got around to removing the rusty battery hold-down bolt today. I needed four passes with a dremel disc cutter, and 3/4" extension and hammer to persuade it out.
Now I guess I need a J-bolt...