bad warm start replaced crank sensor what next

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mjb.thomassen

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P38 1994 4.6hse had bad start when warm .replaced the crank sensor .problem still the same .Checked all the wiring up to the ecu .What could i do next
 
mjb.thomassen said:
I have no nanocom I ll have to solve it without
Click to expand...
That could be difficult, I don't know if you can access the temperature sensors on the engine but you could check resistance of both when they are cold and hot and observe the differences. I'm not sure on your engine which is which. On the diesel for example there are two, three post 99. One for the temp gauge and one for the engine ecu to adjust fuelling for warm-up.
 
mjb.thomassen said:
I have no nanocom I ll have to solve it without
Click to expand...
The starting is only bad after restarting within 2 or three minutes when the enginehas been at max temperature.
After 5 -7 minutes the starting is ok and when the engine is about 30 celcius it still starts ok.
The bad starting sounds like misfiring with a wrong ignition timing
 
If you have an airline you could get the engine upto the problem temp and cool the coil packs down and see if it starts any differently.
 
fuel/ air/ spark.. test fuel pressure - hit the schrader valve onfuel rail (with a rag)- fuel shd spray out. Get a gauge on it if you can. If low pressure, can you hear the pump whine? Gauge will test the regulator keeping pressure on the fuel rail.,if not then the FPR may need a visit Put some Laser lights on the spark plugs - check they're all firing, and in order. Warm idle - TPS at .6V, MAF at around 1.5v, IAT at 22.5 steps +/- 7.5 - without nano you can't do most of that... remove spark plugs and inspect. Check air filter and fuel filter, clean MAF with MAF cleaner/ contact cleaner.
Long story short - once i'd chewed though most of that and sent my injectors off to be cleaned, the problem went away.... Previously V8 started fine cold, but if i parked it warm for 10-15 mins it wouldn't start. Fuel rail was absorbing the heat from the engine bay and when the fuel rail was 60+ it wouldn't start. Also take a look at your cooling system - in the background I changed the rad, which was partially blocked, which brought the running temp down 5 to 7 degrees in urban driving - and that obv means less heat radiating from the engine after shut-down
 
romanrob said:
fuel/ air/ spark.. test fuel pressure - hit the schrader valve onfuel rail (with a rag)- fuel shd spray out. Get a gauge on it if you can. If low pressure, can you hear the pump whine? Gauge will test the regulator keeping pressure on the fuel rail.,if not then the FPR may need a visit Put some Laser lights on the spark plugs - check they're all firing, and in order. Warm idle - TPS at .6V, MAF at around 1.5v, IAT at 22.5 steps +/- 7.5 - without nano you can't do most of that... remove spark plugs and inspect. Check air filter and fuel filter, clean MAF with MAF cleaner/ contact cleaner.
Long story short - once i'd chewed though most of that and sent my injectors off to be cleaned, the problem went away.... Previously V8 started fine cold, but if i parked it warm for 10-15 mins it wouldn't start. Fuel rail was absorbing the heat from the engine bay and when the fuel rail was 60+ it wouldn't start. Also take a look at your cooling system - in the background I changed the rad, which was partially blocked, which brought the running temp down 5 to 7 degrees in urban driving - and that obv means less heat radiating from the engine after shut-down
Click to expand...
ok thanks enough look at this weekend
 
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