As directed by Saint!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
bladeboydaz

bladeboydaz

New Member
Posts
8
Hi Guys,

Introduced myself in the other forum, and was guided by Saint to check in here, as I'm soon to be an RR owner!

I raised my concerns over there, basically the same kinda concerns that most people have raised over purchasing a 2nd hand L322 TD6!

With Saints advice in mind (the gearbox is a 'when' not 'if'), I was wondering if anyone has any experience with warranties that are supplied with used vehilces, as I'm led to believe they try and keep the more expensive repairs out of the warranty small print!

Good to be in the mix of an informative forum, and well looking forward to getting my L322!
 
Glad you made it...

Most third party warranties are useless - only main dealer warranties are any good...but that does not mean the third party ones are not worth it - but do read the small print very very carefully.

Are you after a Petrol or Diesel model??

The L322 is plagued by iffy boxes - BUT - if you catch the Diesel GM box before it goes south totally, you can get away with a remanufactured Torque Convertor and stave off potential issues by another 60K odd miles...the main issue is the valve block in the GM box, it was made from crap material and wears out causing allsorts of debris issues into the box...if you can get one with a reman or new TQ convertor and a sonnax valve block snap it up and grin all the way....

If the GM box is left it can trash itself meaning a new box is required.

The Petrol ZF Box usually fails due to dicky bearing between two of the clutch packs which cause the O Ring seal to fail and this results in slipping of the box and in the worst case burnt clutch packs and a worn TQ.

On the ZF, a replacement of the TQ can again lead to a good 6-80k miles more life, but if this bearing fails and the O Ring follows, you will need to strip the box to replace it, and if caught early enough, this is all that is required...if left it will mean replacement clutch plates or replacement box...

Budget £2.25-2.5k for a rebuilt box - or if you can manage it, about £700 odd to do it yourself!
 
I see what you're saying buddy, I've always felt like auto trans are a bit of a minefield, especially the kind of mileage cars I'm looking at!

I'm making sure that, as a minimum I'm looking at cars with full history, and with that being said, as an example, would a car with 115k have had a trans oil change???? Is it a service requisite, or just advised in the service manual???
 
bladeboydaz said:
I see what you're saying buddy, I've always felt like auto trans are a bit of a minefield, especially the kind of mileage cars I'm looking at!

I'm making sure that, as a minimum I'm looking at cars with full history, and with that being said, as an example, would a car with 115k have had a trans oil change???? Is it a service requisite, or just advised in the service manual???
Click to expand...
Most would not have had any gearbox service as, stupidly, Land Rover and/or ZF labelled them as filled for life...

Their meaning of life was 8-10 years...but amny will never have been touched,changing the fluid and filter should be the first thing you do when you get one, regardless of what the seller says, unless they can prove it was done recently.

Over the years ZF now advise a service every 50-60K miles or 2-3 years or so...

I would advocate an interval of 24K miles to do the Fluid and Filter - read my How To in the How To section, it is simple enough to do!

Mine had 137K miles on it when I got mine, had a slight vibration from the box, changed the fluid and filter and it is 95% better...I will monitor it and change the fluid regularly, 1) to keep it clean and 2) so I can see the condition of the oil and this is a good indication of the condition of the box.

Diesel problems can be felt with a judder/vibration when accelerating and the ZF box while under light acceleration going uphill around 30-45mph...can also sometimes be seen with the rev needle bouncing about 200rpm up and down as the TQ starts slipping.

The ZF Box gives more warning of failure than the GM box which can just let go all of a sudden...

But when test driving feel for a 'cattle grid' type vibration under light acceleration...
 
I will do man, thanks for the advice!

I'm okay on the spanners in all honesty so don't mind doing what I can myself, so i'll check that 'how to' out!

There is a vid on YouTube of a guy stripping an auto, there'sa **** load of metal shavings left in the pan and filter when he takes it out, that's a pretty good indication of how bad it can get I suppose.....

Really looking forward to getting one though, even after reading some of the horror stories! I'm looking around the 110/120k mark!
 
I have been resolutely warned off LPG conversions my friend!

A good mate of mine had one, and had nothing but problems with the conversion, cost him £££ to put right!
 
Yeah man, you're probably right, it just left a sour taste in my mouth!

I'll more than likely be heading to a dealer for mine, and it'll be for a cash sale, which puts me in a decent position, in terms of the deal I may get! Do you have any general ideas for guide prices for RR's of that age! The ones I'm looking at are priced between £7500/£9000.

I was kinda thinking I should be looking to get about £500 off any deal, what you think???
 
Price sounds about right for that year. Diesels are more expensive than the V8 for obvious reasons and as for what you can knock off, well that depends on your negotiating skills!

Just remember the golden rule: Never ever buy a Range Rover with faults not matter what the seller says, unless you appreciate the potential costs, time and frustration involved in repairing it.

They are complex beasts with expensive running and repair costs, so whatever you pay, keep a couple of grand aside for potential repairs over the next year or so!
 
Interesting, because I was planning on purchasing an extended warranty, but with being cautious regarding those, because a lot of the time I seem to hear that companies worm their way out of paying for certain damages!

Could just be more beneficial to keep the money to a side then....

I feel better hagling in the position I'm in, whereas if I was going down the finance route, I think I'd be less in control!
 
With a 9/10 year old car, it is usually better to put money aside rather than a warranty...as you say most will try and worm they way out of paying....

If it was only a few years old a warranty is a good idea, but 2004 vintage, not worth it in my opinion.
 
bladeboydaz said:
I have been resolutely warned off LPG conversions my friend!

A good mate of mine had one, and had nothing but problems with the conversion, cost him £££ to put right!
Click to expand...

As Saint said,a **** system or install, mine works faultlessly and returns much more mpg than TD6. Mine is OMVL. Never misses a beat.

286hp versus 174bhp, i win;)
 
I had the option of putting mine on a RR extended warrantee.
I was sure it was ok, but had paid for an inspection anyway. they gave it a clean bill of health and I kept my money for a rainy day.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
LCM help
Replies
7
Views
1K
billyboy85
B
D
L322 L322 2004 RR diesel TD6 no start. FUEL INJECT. SYSTEM message. Air in fuel line.
Replies
16
Views
3K
Dr Veg
D
S
Td6 LCM & water
Replies
13
Views
1K
backinblack
backinblack
R
Is it the XYZ switch?
Replies
2
Views
441
kermit_rr
kermit_rr
Blob
L322 ABS Re-learn Procedure? Is there such a thing?
Replies
5
Views
1K
Blob
Blob
Back
Top