robd75
New Member
- Posts
- 60
- Location
- Hastings, East Sussex
What's my best/easist/cheapest option? Can it be chased out and if so what size? Or is it a new sump? 
Arggghhhh threaded sump plug
- Thread starter robd75
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
robd75
New Member
- Posts
- 60
- Location
- Hastings, East Sussex
It's a TD5 if that makes any difference!
raisedbybrocks
New Member
- Posts
- 8
- Location
- Herefordshire
Cant remember what size it is. If it was me and I could not shift the sheared bolt, I would just drill it out. Tap it a little bit bigger (if I did not own the correct tap). and use a shortened bolt to suit.
If there is even the slightest bit sticking up it is usually possible to weld a drilled bar or washer and bolt, to get leverage.
If drilling out take time to centre dot as central as possible and drill a pilot first. Especially if you plan to keep the hole the same size.
If there is even the slightest bit sticking up it is usually possible to weld a drilled bar or washer and bolt, to get leverage.
If drilling out take time to centre dot as central as possible and drill a pilot first. Especially if you plan to keep the hole the same size.
90truckcab
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,739
- Location
- staffordshire
drill it out and tap, either as above use a short bolt with either a copper washer or O ring, or tap out to the size of a halfords replacement plug,
disco dude
Active Member
- Posts
- 287
- Location
- Northants
are td5 sump plugs not plastic? i only ask this as the ones i see on ebay look like plastic.
chaseing therads will only work if you havent wrecked all the threads.
if the bung is metal and its riped the threads out you will need to drill and tap the pan or helicoil it.
if helicoiling it remove the pan is my advice, so you can clean it once taped out and lie it on its back, then when inserting the coil place hydraulic seal (locktite)or oil proof gasket sealer between the coil and threads so it dont leak then you need to trim the threads back so they dont pertrude and knock the tab off the back. (not to hard a job as it sounds)
drill and tap size up aint to hard not sure of the thread size as i dont own a td5 then place some old or cheap oil in the engine and undo the bung so you get all the old swarf out.
but this all depends if the hole has the space to be drilled and taped, as it may not have the room before you are working on formed pan (aprox 1mm thick tin)
my advice would be get it off and see what its like then take it to a good welding company, they can fit a new bit of steel behind it or weldthe hole up, then drill and retap the threads to the correct size, then you wont have the issue again as long as no hand fisted monkeys tighen it up!
hope this helps
cheers
baz
chaseing therads will only work if you havent wrecked all the threads.
if the bung is metal and its riped the threads out you will need to drill and tap the pan or helicoil it.
if helicoiling it remove the pan is my advice, so you can clean it once taped out and lie it on its back, then when inserting the coil place hydraulic seal (locktite)or oil proof gasket sealer between the coil and threads so it dont leak then you need to trim the threads back so they dont pertrude and knock the tab off the back. (not to hard a job as it sounds)
drill and tap size up aint to hard not sure of the thread size as i dont own a td5 then place some old or cheap oil in the engine and undo the bung so you get all the old swarf out.
but this all depends if the hole has the space to be drilled and taped, as it may not have the room before you are working on formed pan (aprox 1mm thick tin)
my advice would be get it off and see what its like then take it to a good welding company, they can fit a new bit of steel behind it or weldthe hole up, then drill and retap the threads to the correct size, then you wont have the issue again as long as no hand fisted monkeys tighen it up!
hope this helps
cheers
baz
