Anyone able to help/show how to Freelander Clutch Change

QSpot said:

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and has offered space on the farm to carry out the repair. he also has a very handy front loader that I can use as an crane if I really need.


Q

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Sorted, its in the bag

It turns out that it's actually the DMF that broke in my Landy not the clutch as I first suspected, which apparently explains why the fault is primarily felt in higher gears. And why I don't have as significant problems when pulling away as when moving at speed.

I explained this to myself in terms of the lower relative speed difference (driven plate vs. drive plate) when in higher gears as opposed to moving from standstill. I also found a receipt for changing the clutch just prior to me getting the vehicle (25k miles ago). Which indicates it's not the clutch that bust (unless I am an absolutely atrocious driver...).

Either way, a lot of literature indicates that the clutch assembly should always be changed if the DMF is changed... so looks to be time to do the whole job in one!

Tempted by one of those single mass flywheel conversion kits, but not convinced yet.

Another question, that has just now puzzled me with this new information:

If the clutch was only recently replaced, would I realistically need to replace the master/slave cylinders as surely they were replaced previously? (they were noted on the invoice)

Also is it worth replacing the clutch cover? as surely this was also done in the last clutch fit... Is there a way of checking the clutch cover's serviceability without using a feeler gauge?

Thanks for all your help so far, I am in fact getting my head around this (finally)

I would say that everything was new 25,000 miles ago then the cover plate should be OK

You can measure the wear on the friction disc and replace if it has worn.

Dropping the box and not replacing the friction disc and the release bearing seems a bit mad.


when i did mine i left the DMF - it had only done 100,000 kms and didnt seem buggered.

however the clutch was toast.

Its your choice - spend a bit more now vs a big job if something else fails soon

Ok, I have ordered a new LR friction disc, release bearing and CSC, and a DMF. (all going cheap on fleabay) Hopefully it all goes well.

I'm going to pop down to eurocarparts + fetch all the fluids/disposable parts + probably do my 12k Mile service whilst Im working on it. £££

In two minds weather or not to replace the VCU as it's on 82000 miles right now, but that's a job for another thread and the search function. :frown:

Thanks for your help and support so far guys I am indebted to you all.

Ok so I was looking around for something like lrt 12-177 the crankshaft restraint tool...

Is there a good alternative to spending £90 or must I fork out?

QSpot said:

Ok so I was looking around for something like lrt 12-177 the crankshaft restraint tool...

Is there a good alternative to spending £90 or must I fork out?

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Noooo! If you mean a tool to hold the flywheel still while you undo the bolts, you can get away without one, or drill a hole in a short length of steel channel or angle iron. You can then use an existing bellhousing bolthole to bolt the piece so as to restrain the flywheel.

Right, then...

So far so good.. except I am struggling to get the drive shaft out of the transfer box...

I've read on here somewhere that a pair of flat head screw drivers is just the job. I'm just not sure where to apply them.

1) Do I insert the tips into the joint between the cv joint and the box, and pivot on the IRD/gearbox casing?
2) Do I use the shafts (somehow) to create a lever?

QSpot said:

Right, then...

So far so good.. except I am struggling to get the drive shaft out of the transfer box...

I've read on here somewhere that a pair of flat head screw drivers is just the job. I'm just not sure where to apply them.

1) Do I insert the tips into the joint between the cv joint and the box, and pivot on the IRD/gearbox casing?
2) Do I use the shafts (somehow) to create a lever?

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1) Yes - have them 180 deg apart if you can.
2) Not sure what you mean - jiggle the screwdrivers to force the inner CV joint away from the box. If all fails, drop the IRD shaft and all. Then play with it on the bench.

Interesting, I'll have another go tomorrow... I have very little interest in taking the entire drive shaft out of the hub and all, but if it is the thing to do, I guess I'll have to.

I was aiming for Digby's approach, but only dropping the IRD and gearbox, rather than engine and everything.

QSpot said:

Interesting, I'll have another go tomorrow... I have very little interest in taking the entire drive shaft out of the hub and all, but if it is the thing to do, I guess I'll have to.

I was aiming for Digby's approach, but only dropping the IRD and gearbox, rather than engine and everything.

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Should be a two-minute job to pull the driveshaft out of the hub - just brace the outer joint, undo the nut and tap out.

You'll have an easier time of it if you drop the front subframe before pulling the IRD and box.

Finally got the gearbox out! I'm looking forward to getting the whole lot back in once I've swapped out all the rubbish in the bell housing. I'll try and write this up and get a few good pictures etc. to add to this knowledge base.

Thanks for everyone's help!

Ok so it's all back together, other than the wheels... except for the fact that the engine won't turn over...

Got all of the bolts torqued up right etc. all the output/input shafts went in alright... but still not going.

Starter motor has a good connection made with an earth, and two thicker cables attached to the solenoid...

Any clues/ideas?

QSpot said:

Ok so it's all back together, other than the wheels... except for the fact that the engine won't turn over...

Got all of the bolts torqued up right etc. all the output/input shafts went in alright... but still not going.

Starter motor has a good connection made with an earth, and two thicker cables attached to the solenoid...

Any clues/ideas?

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Well done on finishing the job! What exactly happens when you turn the key?

I hear a click (sometimes) i think it is the starter motor?

Then nothing!

Sorted! Just needed to clean the connecting faces up a little. Reconnected

QSpot said:

Sorted! Just needed to clean the connecting faces up a little. Reconnected

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Let us know how the test drive goes

Haha! in all the excitement I forgot about the whole test drive thing!

I'd best go and do that now.

EDIT:

It works well! Although, the clutch engages VERY low, even after bleeding the clutch system (twice the volume of the reservoir passed through the slave)

I wonder If I am just shocked because the clutch I took out was in fact very worn (less than half the thickness of the new LR clutch). I'm not convinced the clutch was actually changed 20k miles ago.

My write up may well simply duplicate already available knowledge, so I will stick to the salient points.

QSpot said:

Haha! in all the excitement I forgot about the whole test drive thing!

I'd best go and do that now.

EDIT:

It works well! Although, the clutch engages VERY low, even after bleeding the clutch system (twice the volume of the reservoir passed through the slave)

I wonder If I am just shocked because the clutch I took out was in fact very worn (less than half the thickness of the new LR clutch). I'm not convinced the clutch was actually changed 20k miles ago.

My write up may well simply duplicate already available knowledge, so I will stick to the salient points.

Click to expand...

Ah the post-repair test drive - a bit like waiting for exam results to be posted. For reference, our clutch is still the original one and has done 175,000 miles, so to be half-worn at 20k sounds a bit far-fetched.

Low engagement can mean the hydraulics need bleeding, but if you can engage all the gears easily it's probably just a sign of a nice, new clutch. I'm interested to know how you finally decided to go about the job, as there was some debate on here about it.