Another WVO thread, but with a specific question...

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Tim.C

Active Member
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783
Location
Halesowen, West Midlands
OK I know this is done to death on here, but I have a very specific couple of questions;

I have been offered a huge amount, and probably continuous supply of WVO by a local pub/restaurant.


I have a 300TDi currently running on Bio.

I know as the WVO is '2nd hand' it would need filtering to remove dead chips, but how well would it need filtering.
Would just running it through, say, and old pair of tights to get the big lumps out be good enough and leave the rest to the car filter??


Does it make much difference what the WVO is???
(It is Prepoils Prep ZT)


Does its age matter? They have been stock piling it trying to work out how to get rid of it without having to pay someone!!!!!


Any other important things????
 
There are loads of threads on here already. There are lots of different views ranging from "no problems" to "it completely gummed up my engine and it had to be rebuilt" , but just to give you some pointers.

- you need to get the water out as well as the bits. Heating and settling for say 10 days seems to be the way, although I settle it cold.
- I filter to 10 microns (cold) which is probably overkill, using solid which filters clog quickly and are a pain to clean. Heating it would make life a lot easier.
- the first time you run it, it will lift all the cr4p in your tank and dump it in your fuel filter, so make sure you have a spare(s) ready.
- the main additive in cooking oil is anti-foaming agent (silicate based) and there are debates everywhere about whether this is a bad thing. The chemicals seem to be in the same family as diesel anti-foaming agents, ,but they are in larger quantities.
- there are suggestions that it screws the seals in Lucas injection pumps.
- gumming may be associated with lots of short journeys

It is a gamble.
 
I mix 50/50 WVO & SVO with normal diesel. seems to go OK so far. Have not had ant problems with my 300 Tdi. However, and this is a BIG however, do NOT use veg oil anywhere near a Lucas pump. The pump is too fragile as my sister found out to her cost when she thought, 'if my brother can do this, then so can I'. She needed a complete rebuild to her Peugeot engined motor home. Very Very expensive!
 
If i remember corrctly prep zt is a palm oil type veg oil........read lard consistancy when anything less than room temp....makes reasonable biodiesel but you would need a twin tank system where the oil is heated to make it usable....lot of ****ing about and useless for short journeys as it can take 15 mins to purge the system or you end up with a non starter next time you need the car.
PM me if you need any more advice.....i have made bio for a couple of years now so could help you if you want to have a try youself.
 
Been hunting around trying to find out what this stuff is.

I can't be sure but I don't think the ZT stuff is palm oil, though they do seem to make that as well (Prep Premium??)


"15L Prep ZT (Bucket)

A long life vegetable oil produced by Prep Oils which lasts up to 2.5 times longer than extended oils. Prep ZT is a solution to trans-fat without compromising on life."


I don't have a lucas pump, and I'm already running (bought) Bio, so already cleared all the crap out of the tank.

Just don't want to keep paying 99ppl when I can get WVO for free.

Not keen on having to heat stuff though - I was hoping to just let it settle and filter the chips out :)
 
any chance you could get a piccy or 2??
I've posed the question of what it is on the bio site but not got a reply yet....will let you know!
 
I've been burning wvo for a good few months now, with no probs so far, I pass it through a fine sieve into an 80l drum which I fitted a tap about 6" from the bottom, leave it a couple of days to settle then pass it through a 1 micron cloth filter (serious overkill I know) and then mix it with either petrol or diesel to thin it down, job done. Just change fuel filter and clean sedimenter regularly.
 
If you're not sure if it's palm oil or not, don't go near it as palm oil doesn't thicken when it's gets cold it sets absolutley feckin' solid.
 
Most of the bio boys are saying bucket=solid oil!!
If you can get hold of some liqued oil and make biodiesel you could mix about 25% of the prep stuff in the mix which would give you bio to use i summer but NOT in winter:D
 
Most of the bio boys are saying bucket=solid oil!!
If you can get hold of some liqued oil and make biodiesel you could mix about 25% of the prep stuff in the mix which would give you bio to use i summer but NOT in winter:D

maybe so , but I'll stick to the way I'm doing it for know...till me engine blows up that is:(. I did consider building a bio production plant but the idea of having all that methanol lying around in me shed was too scary. I just use less of it in the winter.
 
as for the heating, i use an old fish tank heater this does a grand job of warming the oil enough to drop the water out and help with the filtration without heating it enough to form any more ffa's ( thats free fatty acids - they're the bit that buggers up the seals)
 
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