Alternator change

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I assume it's not trivial to remove the winch drive shaft? I replaced my alternator fairly easily with the wing off and the radiator in place, so I assume the drive shaft is the main difference between what you have and what I had.
I've had a look at the drive shaft and I can't easily see how it is attached, there must be a pto flange but I haven't jacked it up to get underneath properly. I think if I undo it from the pto flange, I then need to pull the winch forward enough to clear the shaft. Those Fairey winches are heavy buggers. The body of the new alternator is only about two inches from the chassis rail and I just can't get my hand between them enough to locate the bottom bolts. I might have a look at fabricating a special tool to hold the bolt heads so that I can do up the nyloc nuts. My problem is, the harder I try without success, the more frustrated I get and more things go wrong.

Col
 
I really like my pto winches, but find they are a real pita come repair time on anything else.
On the other hand they will pull and pull and then pull some more.
 
I really like my pto winches, but find they are a real pita come repair time on anything else.
On the other hand they will pull and pull and then pull some more.
Yes, I chose this particular landy because it had the pto drum winch fitted. Not that I'm likely to use it but I just like the look of it.

Col
 
Can you disconnect one end of the drive shaft and move it over enough? I'm assuming (with out knowing) that it has a sliding joint?
I haven't examined it in detail, however it doesn't appear to have a sliding shaft. To be honest, lying on my back underneath it, I start struggling for breath after a few minutes not to mention the oil slick from the various leaks. I've toyed with the idea of taking the alternator mounting bracket off, fitting it to the alternator and then put the whole thing back in place but there is one bolt for the bracket that looks just as inaccessible as the bottom alternator bolts. I'm wondering if I have misjudged how it fits to the bracket, one of the bottom bolt holes has a protruding tube which sticks out about 5 or 6 millimetres. I'm wondering if that is supposed to slide inside the hole in the bracket. I'd hate to finally fit it and find I've done it wrong. As usual the Haynes manual is useless.

Col
 
I haven't examined it in detail, however it doesn't appear to have a sliding shaft. To be honest, lying on my back underneath it, I start struggling for breath after a few minutes not to mention the oil slick from the various leaks. I've toyed with the idea of taking the alternator mounting bracket off, fitting it to the alternator and then put the whole thing back in place but there is one bolt for the bracket that looks just as inaccessible as the bottom alternator bolts. I'm wondering if I have misjudged how it fits to the bracket, one of the bottom bolt holes has a protruding tube which sticks out about 5 or 6 millimetres. I'm wondering if that is supposed to slide inside the hole in the bracket. I'd hate to finally fit it and find I've done it wrong. As usual the Haynes manual is useless.

Col
Yes the split bush slides into the bracket.
 
I haven't examined it in detail, however it doesn't appear to have a sliding shaft. To be honest, lying on my back underneath it, I start struggling for breath after a few minutes not to mention the oil slick from the various leaks. I've toyed with the idea of taking the alternator mounting bracket off, fitting it to the alternator and then put the whole thing back in place but there is one bolt for the bracket that looks just as inaccessible as the bottom alternator bolts. I'm wondering if I have misjudged how it fits to the bracket, one of the bottom bolt holes has a protruding tube which sticks out about 5 or 6 millimetres. I'm wondering if that is supposed to slide inside the hole in the bracket. I'd hate to finally fit it and find I've done it wrong. As usual the Haynes manual is useless.

Col

Sometimes you have yoo tap the bush outwards to allow the alt to slip on, then as you tighten the bolt the bush is pulled inwards, basiclaly its a fit all alternator.
 
I haven't examined it in detail, however it doesn't appear to have a sliding shaft. To be honest, lying on my back underneath it, I start struggling for breath after a few minutes not to mention the oil slick from the various leaks. I've toyed with the idea of taking the alternator mounting bracket off, fitting it to the alternator and then put the whole thing back in place but there is one bolt for the bracket that looks just as inaccessible as the bottom alternator bolts. I'm wondering if I have misjudged how it fits to the bracket, one of the bottom bolt holes has a protruding tube which sticks out about 5 or 6 millimetres. I'm wondering if that is supposed to slide inside the hole in the bracket. I'd hate to finally fit it and find I've done it wrong. As usual the Haynes manual is useless.

Col


The pto shaft sliding joint is at the pto end, approx 6 inches forwards of the pto itself, some are 6 sided and others are splined.

This is mine, pic taken from underneath just after it was fitted, which is why it is so clean!

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Like you I have to work in the street or on our sloping gravel front garden, its not a great choice. The street is flat and stable for jacking but I now have to buy a visitors parking permit if I park on the road:mad:. My solution is to have some old scaffold board to drive up on, this gives me 2" more which makes big difference (I have ramps, but its right faff) and an old carpet that I can lie on and a block of wood to rest my head. These little things make the whole job a lot nicer and take the need to rush away. On monday i did the rear output shaft pre-load, seal and brake overhual - about 3 hours underneath and while it wasn't fun, it wasn't painfull either.
I may have been working a bit too slow, the local robin came and joined me:
robin_1.jpg
 
Like you I have to work in the street or on our sloping gravel front garden, its not a great choice. The street is flat and stable for jacking but I now have to buy a visitors parking permit if I park on the road:mad:. My solution is to have some old scaffold board to drive up on, this gives me 2" more which makes big difference (I have ramps, but its right faff) and an old carpet that I can lie on and a block of wood to rest my head. These little things make the whole job a lot nicer and take the need to rush away. On monday i did the rear output shaft pre-load, seal and brake overhual - about 3 hours underneath and while it wasn't fun, it wasn't painfull either.
I may have been working a bit too slow, the local robin came and joined me:
View attachment 223073
In the past when I've had to get under it, I've jacked it up and put axle stands in place but has you say it's a right faff. 15 minutes ago, it was nice and sunny here and I thought I'd give it another go but now its trying to rain. I really envy those who can get their landys in a decent sized garage. Thanks for the info on the bush, I was fretting about that.

Col
 
Hey Col,

Interested to hear if the emergency v-belt was ordered and if it has arrived and if you think it will actually be of some use
 
Hey Col,

Interested to hear if the emergency v-belt was ordered and if it has arrived and if you think it will actually be of some use
I ordered the emergency belt and it is due to be delivered tomorrow. It's not a v belt though, more tubular shaped. My only concern is that you have to cut it to length and then attach the two ends together with what looks like a ribbed piece of metal, like the ends of those cheap inline fuel filters. I don't have much confidence in it lasting long but their sales guff says that customers have used them to replace belts on clothes dryers and all sorts. It will be an interesting experiment anyway, if it works, it'll be worth carrying one as an emergency belt. There's nothing worse than trying to change a fan belt at night in the rain. My intention is to fit it to get me to the local garage but if it works I might just move the landy to a better position to work underneath. At the moment, it's parked in a corner with a kerb along the near side and front so it's a bugger to get a jack under.

Col
 
I ordered the emergency belt and it is due to be delivered tomorrow. It's not a v belt though, more tubular shaped. My only concern is that you have to cut it to length and then attach the two ends together with what looks like a ribbed piece of metal, like the ends of those cheap inline fuel filters. I don't have much confidence in it lasting long but their sales guff says that customers have used them to replace belts on clothes dryers and all sorts. It will be an interesting experiment anyway, if it works, it'll be worth carrying one as an emergency belt. There's nothing worse than trying to change a fan belt at night in the rain. My intention is to fit it to get me to the local garage but if it works I might just move the landy to a better position to work underneath. At the moment, it's parked in a corner with a kerb along the near side and front so it's a bugger to get a jack under.

Col
I would hazard a guess you fit the temp belt quite loosely, is it is defo going to slip but so long as water pump is turning, even at 1/4 speed it will get you there so long as you take your time.
 
How do you get the shaft off, you don't have to split the UJ do you?

Col


Do you know what I cannot remember!
I would hazard a guess its remove the centre bearing then the pto end u/j grub screws and wiggle away, it wont be much of a wiggle as the shaft runs real close to the bulkhead and the flywheel housing, Iirc my shaft runs over gbox mount, but I have seen pics where people have the pto output set lower so the shaft runs under the gbox mount.
 
First pic not my car, but you can see what i mean about shaft running under the gbox moount, second pic is mine and must be trial fitting using the load rated blue rope!



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Hey Col,

Interested to hear if the emergency v-belt was ordered and if it has arrived and if you think it will actually be of some use
The emergency belt arrived Saturday and it's now fitted and working a treat. Has an emergency belt in normal circumstances it would be a bit crap because I only needed to fit it around the crank pully and the water pump pully, I thought I would have to cut lots off but I only need to cut a bit less than 2 inches off. It I had needed it to go around the alternator pully as well, it would have been too short, I'd have to join 2 together. Anyway, another question, when I last used the landy, there was over half a tank of petrol in it but the fuel guage says it is now empty. Does not having the alternator connected stop the guage working or has my petrol vanished.

Col
 
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