P38A All smoke, no poke >_<

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The pipe that feeds the turbo ,should be a hard plastic elbow ,if its a rubber hose there known to close under vacuum ,they were changed ,,,someone on here will know the year ;)
This one?
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I've spent about 3 weeks trying to work out what it was/part number. My GoogleFu has finally kicked in and I've found it.
Without this one connected it should run normally?
The layout is a terrible design as the radiator hose appears to rub a hole in them =\
 
Confirmed this does seem to be the source of restriction, found 2 part numbers for this PHD103330 and ESR2522. I don't know if they're the same, or one is meant to superseded the other?
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Removed the pipe and ran it up and down the bypasss; Goes all the way through the gears without loosing power even booting it.
I guess the airflow from it is still factored into the fuel mix ratio as there was a nice blanket of black fog rolling out behind me, if not then there are still issues to work on there? Was nice to actually be able to hear the turbo spool and release even though it's really quiet :D

I guess excess heat from a longer than normal journey along with the now working radiator, must have made it pliable. The hose itself is still fairly rigid, but if pressed there it tries to snap back to this position :\

Back to buying parts...
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Well spotted, I would have thought the engine ECU would have dealt with the altered airflow [it's a fairly simple setup with those pre-egr machines] and it wouldn't have black-smoked but perhaps it's sufficiently outside the normal parameters for it to cope. I guess the incoming air won't be as dense (since it's not being cooled) and so the stoich mixture won't be right...

Anyway FWIW I realise you're in the land of mecca and can just drop into your local motor factors to get these things (well, at least you're in the right country!), but if it were me I'd 'repair' that problem. Several ways to do it of course but a little judicious reinforcing from some aluminium, steel, or plastic pipe and you'd be good to go methinks.
 
Well spotted, I would have thought the engine ECU would have dealt with the altered airflow [it's a fairly simple setup with those pre-egr machines] and it wouldn't have black-smoked but perhaps it's sufficiently outside the normal parameters for it to cope. I guess the incoming air won't be as dense (since it's not being cooled) and so the stoich mixture won't be right...

Anyway FWIW I realise you're in the land of mecca and can just drop into your local motor factors to get these things (well, at least you're in the right country!), but if it were me I'd 'repair' that problem. Several ways to do it of course but a little judicious reinforcing from some aluminium, steel, or plastic pipe and you'd be good to go methinks.

Stoich mixture?
 
Italian tune-up. Good run up the A1 should do it. Just watch those bloody speed cameras. In the process of paying my latest "travel tax" now.

Of course you do not have to exceed the speed limit to get the engine revving. There are others gears to select. :D
 
Anyway FWIW I realise you're in the land of mecca and can just drop into your local motor factors to get these things (well, at least you're in the right country!), but if it were me I'd 'repair' that problem. Several ways to do it of course but a little judicious reinforcing from some aluminium, steel, or plastic pipe and you'd be good to go methinks.
Replacement already ordered, thinking of wrapping it in some aluminium tape or something to deflect heat from the engine and try to stop this one melting :p
 
Probably can't spell stoichiometric, neither can I probably:)

Well said :) As it happens although I don't use the term often I do so enough to shorten it. At the risk of a little thread drift, from Wikipedia: "the ratio is known as the stoichiometric mixture, often abbreviated to stoich"

Not really bothered about how he spells things. Diesel engines do not use stoichiometric mixture ratios. The nearest they will every get to one is when EGR is in operation. ;)

You raise an interesting point that I'd need to think about, it's been a while since I studied anything about thermochemical processes in engines! FWIW My comment was fairly off-the-cuff, but AFAIK a diesel's stoich A/F ratio is ~14.6:1 and while they'd usually run more 'lean' (a lot more lean in some cases) something appeared to be affecting Macos' machine and my initial guess was air temp/density.

BTW is G-TONE yours?

@Macos:
it'll be good to hear how it goes with the new intake pipe, you've prompted me to have a look at mine this w/end, just to ensure it's not suffering any early stages of similar ill-effects.

 
Should be fine. It shouldn't be rubbing anywhere either. Not sure why yours was.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I'm not sure why a lot of things are how they are on this thing, from previous owner work to LR original!

I have new top and bottom hoses ordered for the radiator anyway, should have replaced them when I did the rad but I was in a rush to get a working car sorted :D
 
@private_user : yes, Wammers built GTONE.

@Grrrrrr Thanks, I'm a little amused to note that here in NZ a number of aviation folk I know seem to have Land Rovers too. Not sure what, if any, particular relationship there is but the 'incidence' seems higher than what I'd expect on average - and I do have a reasonable sample rate because in another life I was fairly involved in the field.
 
@Grrrrrr Thanks, I'm a little amused to note that here in NZ a number of aviation folk I know seem to have Land Rovers too. Not sure what, if any, particular relationship there is but the 'incidence' seems higher than what I'd expect on average - and I do have a reasonable sample rate because in another life I was fairly involved in the field.
It’s so they can tow there planes back onto the runway or get to them when they remembered where they left them haaaa
 
I had the same problems. The fuel quantity thingy was failing in the FIP. If I came off cruise I used to see a momentary yellow engine light on the dash.
The only way to cure the smoke was to use manual override on the auto gearbox as high revs stopped the smoking. I got a replacement engine in the end, it was cheaper than getting the FIP reburbished.

I removed the turbo and had it checked. I replaced all the turbo pipes - they were fine. MAF sensor was reading out of range. Engine intake temps were stupid (I can't remember exactly but it was like -300C). I had the FIP o rings and seals all replaced. Nothing made any difference. Which is why I went for a full replacement engine. All been fine since :-D
 
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