After fitting new Fuel Injection pump (2.5d) should it start straight away?

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garydavidson123

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oK, a new one hasnt been fitted, but the old one resealed up to stop a leak?

But its not starting... I need a new battery anyway I think.. but am I right in thinking it will need to turn over a bit to pump more fuel into to the pump?

Is there anything I need to do to help prime it?
 
garydavidson123 said:
oK, a new one hasnt been fitted, but the old one resealed up to stop a leak?

But its not starting... I need a new battery anyway I think.. but am I right in thinking it will need to turn over a bit to pump more fuel into to the pump?

Is there anything I need to do to help prime it?
Click to expand...

You will possibly need help to get it going. Have someone crank it whilst you open injectors slightly until fuel is seen at injector, then shut it up do this for all injectors in turn. Be aware it may start as you are doing this, if it does just continue opening injectors until you have fuel to them all.
 
cool. dont spose u could write a quick step by step how to do that pls?

how do i undo them with all those pipes round them?
 
garydavidson123 said:
cool. dont spose u could write a quick step by step how to do that pls?

how do i undo them with all those pipes round them?
Click to expand...

You need an obstruction ring key, it has a slot in it to go over the injector pipe. Think they are 17mm but don't quote me on that. Just open injectors about quarter of a turn and get someone to crank engine, as air bubbles stop and fuel appears at injector nip up. It should start at sometime in the process.
 
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Access to the tops of the injectors is pretty good so a standard 17 will do just fine to crack off the injectors but as said above its really not needed if your sender pump is healthy. I've had the whole lot off several times (replaced glowplugs just last weekend) and have never had to bleed it manually. Just leave it at ignition on for a few seconds before you crank to allow the sender pump prime it.

Which is a good thing as I'd really have to pay for it if I had to drag herself out in the cold to crank it for me. :)
 
Datatek said:
On another thread it says the injectors are self bleeding via the leak off pipes, but it will still take a lot of cranking to get the fuel up there
Click to expand...

Quite right a lot of cranking. Even though modern systems are classed as self bleeding, i have always used the opening pipe method when it is possible to do it. It is a lot quicker if you are having problem getting fuel through. It is also incidentally the method recommeded in Land Rover RAVE.
 
having just had to prime my system, falling fuel run out. They do self prime, but it took 2 battery charges to do it.
 
So, am i right in saying if i'm having trouble starting and having gone through one battery already if i crack open the injectors whilst trying to turn it over this will help the fuel come through quicker and easier?

Can i undo the injector with 17mm open spanner a little bit until i see fuel come out and then tighten?
 
garydavidson123 said:
So, am i right in saying if i'm having trouble starting and having gone through one battery already if i crack open the injectors whilst trying to turn it over this will help the fuel come through quicker and easier?

Can i undo the injector with 17mm open spanner a little bit until i see fuel come out and then tighten?
Click to expand...

Yes you are correct it will, it is standard procedure to do this. Even on self bleed engines, if you have had injector pipes off or pump open there will be air all the way through them, the air within the pipes cannot be compressed enough by the small volume of fuel being pumped to crack the injector, so all you get by constant cranking is air being compressed then shoving the fuel back down the pipes. Opening the pipes slightly at the injectors allows this air to be ejected and the fuel to rise in the pipes. It has worked for me for 48 years of doing it see no reason why it should not work for you.
 
If you're having that much trouble you've likely got a dead tank sender pump.

Either that or your BECM has lost sync with the stop solenoid, if this is the case you'll def have to crack the pipes to see if thee is diesel at the injectors.
 
Take off the plastic cover on top of the engine.

This will give you great access to the top of the injectors, this is where you want to open them, not at the back of the pump.
 
ok, right so i've read rave and listened to a few people but still wanna just clear it up as i'm gonna have a go tommorow

in the pic, is this the part i wanna crack open on each injector slight with a spanner?

image-CE56_4B1AE2E9.jpg
 
No, thats the actual injector, its the pipe that is screwed on to the top of that injector. Its a 17mm nut with the fuel pipe going down through it.

Go to Adjustment - Fuel injection pump timing and it is step 4, it shows special tool LRT-12-117 but a 17mm spanner will do just fine.
Step 3 works fine too (Its the recommended one) but you'll actually need the special tool as access is really awkward.
 
right, i've just undone them one by one front to back, cranked it over and fuel is coming through, drip by drip, is that right?

tried to start the car but think the battery died again with the amount of cranking, tried jumping it from my vw golf but dash lights still die when trying to crank, so dont think its got enough juice in it to help...

shall i give the battery a charge? and then give it another go?
 
Yeah, should be spraying out, thats why I don't do it :)

If you've only got a drip coming out there You've either got:
a) a dead/incorrectly installed pump - I hope you had the right tools for putting the pump on.
B) a dead sender pump. Take off the fuel filter, put a bucket under it and turn on the ignition, you should get a strong flow of diesel out through the filter holder. Mine is so strong that its twice blown the seal on the filter (I probably didn't lubricate the rubber on the filter but it still had the power to blow it)
 
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