Advice on my me nuts

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
fett

fett

Well-Known Member
Posts
8,637
Location
South Hampshire
well me studs to be more precise.

I forked out to get the ally wheel studs and nuts for the 72 RRC to run 3 spoke alloys.

The heads dont sit all the way into the hubs like the old ones did.

They end up now with the nuts going on for 10 complete turns, which adds up to about half an inch , thats about half the depth of the nut!

Question is , is this enough? are they safe?

Thanks Guys and Gals
 
Last edited:
fett said:
well me studs to be more precise.

I forked out to get the ally wheel studs and nuts for the 72 RRC to run 3 spoke alloys.

The heads dont sit all the way into the hubs like the old ones did.

They end up now with the nuts going on for 10 completer turns, which adds up to about half an inch , thats about half the depth of the nut!

Question is , is this enough? are they safe?

Thanks Guys and Gals
Click to expand...

No they are not. Studs must protrude at least three threads through for safety. Also the studs will eventually get their heads pulled off if they don't sit flat on their shoulders.
 
Bugger! I will email Dingo croft- where I got them and ask them if thay can sort it.

They were OEM spec studs so its frustrating!
 
wammers said:
No they are not. Studs must protrude at least three threads through for safety. Also the studs will eventually get their heads pulled off if they don't sit flat on their shoulders.
Click to expand...

Spot-on Tony........as usual ;)

Fett, three is an absolute minimum, and if not seated fully will pull through very quickly :eek::eek:
 
so guys I am assured dingos are on the case, so if thats true then when my new ones come is it just the case of knocking the old ones through with a copper hammer and then with more difficulty I am guessing- knock the new ones in from the back with a drift maybe?

Please say I can leave the hubs on :D
 
fett said:
so guys I am assured dingos are on the case, so if thats true then when my new ones come is it just the case of knocking the old ones through with a copper hammer and then with more difficulty I am guessing- knock the new ones in from the back with a drift maybe?

Please say I can leave the hubs on :D
Click to expand...

Push them in as far as they will go. Grease the threads and a nut. Then fit a suitable spacer and pull them in with the nut. Use a new nut for each pullin or you may knacker a nut if you use the same one for all. Simples.
 
maybe :p

wont tightening the nuts up on the wheel do it?

its annoying really to have to do them again in a rush as I have had them put in once already in plenty of time :doh:
 
fett said:
maybe :p

wont tightening the nuts up on the wheel do it?

its annoying really to have to do them again in a rush as I have had them put in once already in plenty of time :doh:
Click to expand...

Maybe it depends how much grip there is. Don't try that if you only have a small grip. You will need at least a few turns on stud or you may strip the nut.
 
concensus atm is that the studs cant come out withour the brake discs and all the associated bollix that goes with them having to come off, that sound right?

if so bugger bugger and bugger again, I would say dingos owe me £100 labour and a set of clips washers and gaskets too.

FFS best laid plans :doh:
 
fett said:
concensus atm is that the studs cant come out withour the brake discs and all the associated bollix that goes with them having to come off, that sound right?

if so bugger bugger and bugger again, I would say dingos owe me £100 labour and a set of clips washers and gaskets too.

FFS best laid plans :doh:
Click to expand...

Well unless your a Gynecologist and can paper your hallway through your letter box, i would say it is pretty difficult to remove studs from or fit new studs into hub which is behind the disc, unless you remove the disc first. :D:D:D
 
yeah thanks for the sarcasm :p

I ask as they are still wrapped in bin liners as I have been epoxying and undersealing the underside and all the new metal.

I wonder if dingo croft will come on here like rimmer bros did and post :rolleyes:
 
ok new plan mr wam, stu reckons that if I fit 30mm spaces to the hubs using old style studs and then the new style studs can be bolted through them- it will then apparently take any landrover wheels :D

may cost me a bit for the extra parts but it gets me round these problems.

oh btw no studs exist to do this directly, thats according to dingos, lr parts direct and stu cos me hubs are so early :doh:
 
fett said:
ok new plan mr wam, stu reckons that if I fit 30mm spaces to the hubs using old style studs and then the new style studs can be bolted through them- it will then apparently take any landrover wheels :D

may cost me a bit for the extra parts but it gets me round these problems.

oh btw no studs exist to do this directly, thats according to dingos, lr parts direct and stu cos me hubs are so early :doh:
Click to expand...

The spacers are real dear though, unless your fitting wheels with a different offset to maintain centering over hub can screw your hub bearings up PDQ.
 
no easy solution is there :doh:

I did wonder about that buggering my bearings or summit.

wonder if those nice tyers will fit on the old steel wheels if I tart up the wheels?

I will just go and look at the sizes
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Brenda__the__Defender
Advice on Tyre choice please!
Replies
14
Views
3K
Brenda__the__Defender
Brenda__the__Defender
C
Defender 110 UK Defender 110 African Overland Build - Avaiable in Kenya or UK
Replies
3
Views
323
cmr600
C
K
What money should I be asking?
2
Replies
27
Views
7K
Karls
K
Stormintrooper
Wheel refurb vs wheel nuts
Replies
7
Views
1K
Stormintrooper
Stormintrooper
malcolm_durant
Freelander 1 Storytime: how not to pass your MoT (twice)
Replies
14
Views
4K
ER1C
ER1C
Back
Top