Advice from the expert.

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The drawings in the workshop manuals are not to scale, they are ok for the position of outriggers and mounting brackets etc but not the shape of the main chassis rails.
If you have an old chassis you can use that to make templates and a jig to build your new one in. I made this template of a 109 chassis.

P4233082-1.jpg


then used the template to make a jig.

P5173340.jpg
 
I printed it off large scale you can see it on the wall in my workshop, even that coach builders drawing is not accurate when compared to a real series 2 109 chassis, I found one over in Swadlincote, the owner let me make drawings and templates.
 
The drawings in the workshop manuals are not to scale, they are ok for the position of outriggers and mounting brackets etc but not the shape of the main chassis rails.
If you have an old chassis you can use that to make templates and a jig to build your new one in. I made this template of a 109 chassis.

P4233082-1.jpg


then used the template to make a jig.

P5173340.jpg

Bloody hell thats an amazing job, im really attracted to this idea but can i ask how you made the jig as that's the only bit i am worried about.
I do have the original chassis so i could in reality use that to build another the same dimensions and specs (Drop down G-Box Xmemebr etc).
Thanks Guys.
 
Bloody hell thats an amazing job, im really attracted to this idea but can i ask how you made the jig as that's the only bit i am worried about.
I do have the original chassis so i could in reality use that to build another the same dimensions and specs (Drop down G-Box Xmemebr etc).
Thanks Guys.

Well I made a bench out of 2x2 box 1/4 plate on top, the bench is narrower than the width between the chassis rails and then spaced out with shims to the correct width so the shims can be knocked out to release the chassis if any distortion grips the jig. Then I set the bench up level put the template on the side as you can see in the first pic and fabricated the end pieces which are bolt on so I can remove them and have a welding table afterwards. You could use a laser level when building the jig to keep things square. Finally I adjusted it with more shims to get it spot on.

The chassis didn't distort much during welding, I think as Land Rover said about the early series chassis because you are welding four corners the welds cancel each other out. I got strips cut on a 2.5 mtr guillotine for the top and bottom from a 2.5 mtr sheet of steel and cut wooden spacer blocks to space the vertical side plates apart, then get tacking.

If as you say you have a chassis to work from you could build tabs into the jig to pick up the spring mounts. Out riggers and rear cross member you could buy ready made.

Finally there is a lot of welding and you will need to stop and let you mig and torch cool on a regular basis so just do short runs and let it cool.

more pic's here http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/alrc-project-160626-2.html
 
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