Add an extra 12v Socket for Dashcam

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Ok so here's the conundrum;

I have a 2015 Defender 90 XS - and it's awesome, but the one problem is I only have one 12v socket for powering kit - I often need to charge my phone when on the road, but I also have a dashcam to record fun moments but also protect myself from the numerous muppets on the road for my own protection (been caught out in accidents before, and in the last 6 months I've had one guy overtake me on a blind corner and almost ram me off the road, and another racing his mate go the wrong way through a red light on my side of the road and straight towards me - if I'd have had a recording I'd have sent it to the PoPo)

The dashcam is great and works fine, only turns on when the car is powered on and it runs off the 12v socket, but since I only have one I wanted to add a secondary power source, probably hidden, to permanently power the dash cam.

I've considered a socket splitter but due to the location of the 12v socket, it would get in the way of my gear changes and take up too much room. I've seen videos of people adding piggyback fuses to the fuse box, (can buy part from eBay for £0.90) but on my fuse box there isn't enough 'headroom' between the fuses and the fuse box blanking cover to fit one of the piggyback devices.

Therefore, does anybody know of any way I can wire something in on the back of, say, the wiper fuse or the existing 12v fuse to draw off power for a second 12v socket? I want to try and make the install as neat as possible, and also ultimately removable should I ever need to sell the car (somebody might want to keep it in, but just for sake of ease)

Any ideas? Has anyone else done this?
 
Just doing more research and I have two options;

1) I can wire the 12v socket directly to the battery with an in-line fuse and earth to a nearby screw. This would mean I have permanent power to the dashcam unless I physically turn it off, and it would also involve routing some wires through the cabin of the car - not too difficult since the battery is still under the front passenger seat rather than in the engine bay - question is, where can I route the wires?

2) I can try and fit the piggy back fuse onto another fuse as many others have done assuming it will fit in the fuse box, but this would only give power when the ignition is on meaning I wouldn't have the benefit of motion detection and shock detection (i.e. if somebody walks past or tries to mess with the car in some way, I'd not be recording it)

I've ordered the socket, wire crimpers and some cable ties - does anybody have a couple of bits of black and red 15A wire they can spare in return for a couple of quid??
 
Littlewill; Yes I perhaps could although it's a brand new car so I don't want to start stripping back the dash to get to the wiring - I haven't properly looked to see if it's possible. The fuse box is easy to access, as is the battery. My theory was to just tuck the wiring in behind some of the trim so it's not impossible to take out later on if I sell the car or the dashcam stops working for any reason.

Blue Beasty; Yes I was thinking about going there to see them and ask for some spade/ring connectors and wire because you have to buy the stuff in huge quantities - I only need two spade connectors and some wire!

I'll have a play and post some pictures.
 
A power socket (they're still cig lighter in my head) is a fairly heavy draw so I'd run a fused feed direct from the battery anyway rather than piggy backing.
 
That's more in the direction that I'm leaning to be honest - I've got hold of some 15A cable, and I'm just debating how to fuse it - probably just put in a 15A in-line fuse kit and then wire the whole lot up neatly in the passenger seat box next to the battery and trace the mini USB cable that comes with the cam up the passenger A Pillar and across the top of the windscreen. Sadly there's no way of tucking it in so I might have to use black gaffer tape/electrical tape and trim it neatly or thread it behind the brackets for the sun visor...don't really want to start taking the headlining out as I have a feeling I'll never get it back in!

My only concern is forgetting to turn the thing off and draining my battery - I know you can buy little boxes that auto switch off your power supply once the voltage drops below a set level or after a set time, but they seem quite expensive to buy...
 
That's more in the direction that I'm leaning to be honest - I've got hold of some 15A cable, and I'm just debating how to fuse it - probably just put in a 15A in-line fuse kit and then wire the whole lot up neatly in the passenger seat box next to the battery and trace the mini USB cable that comes with the cam up the passenger A Pillar and across the top of the windscreen. Sadly there's no way of tucking it in so I might have to use black gaffer tape/electrical tape and trim it neatly or thread it behind the brackets for the sun visor...don't really want to start taking the headlining out as I have a feeling I'll never get it back in!

My only concern is forgetting to turn the thing off and draining my battery - I know you can buy little boxes that auto switch off your power supply once the voltage drops below a set level or after a set time, but they seem quite expensive to buy...

A dash cam on standby/motion mode isn't going to be much of a drain on the battery unless you leave it parked up for days on end.
 
I know it will stop the hole motion detection thing but why not just get a aux socket with 2 usb's on it. One for your phone the other for the cameria.
 
Yes i could do i suppose- but i want to avoid the wires coming out of the dash like that. I would prefer it to look OEM as much as is possible hence the extra effort im willing to put in.

Good idea though...still debating options for now
 
Not that cheap but some thing like this

http://www.devon4x4.com/mere-h-auto...tegory_id=127&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=14

Cuts off at 11.8v to protect the battery.
Wow yeah thats pricey...ideally looking for a slightly more cost effective option. I could just unplug the unit but that would kill the motion detection.

Having said that however, motion detect is only useful if somebody moves in front of the car or hits the front.

If it gets nicked overnight, the dashcam goes with it...if somebody messes with the side or back, wont see it...so is it worth it?
 
Not that cheap but some thing like this

http://www.devon4x4.com/mere-h-auto...tegory_id=127&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=14

Cuts off at 11.8v to protect the battery.
Wow yeah thats pricey...ideally looking for a slightly more cost effective option. I could just unplug the unit but that would kill the motion detection.

Having said that however, motion detect is only useful if somebody moves in front of the car or hits the front.

If it gets nicked overnight, the dashcam goes with it...if somebody messes with the side or back, wont see it...so is it worth it?
 
If your going to wire it straight to the battery and only want it on when your driving and struggling to find a switch source you could use a voltage sensing relay instead the cameria will only be on when the engine is running but you could pick one up for under £20.
 
Personally I have a small blade type fusebox fitted into my battery compartment then I have some of the lines fed live from the battery and some fed via an ignition operated relay.
I had already wired various relays in there as I have the split charge relay for the caravan towing wlectrics in there as well as a voltage sensing relay to drive that so I have the options of permanent live, ignitio live and only charging whilst the engine is running.
Not sure where the fusebox is on the Puma dashboards or how to rout stuff into the seatbox from them as mine is a TD5 with the traditional crappy fuse box you have to fight to get into because of the Heath Robinson aircon bolted under the dashboard that makes removing the bloody fuse cover a nightmare.
 
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