Datatek
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- Near Poitiers SW France
I clamped mine without a problem and then used an air line to gently purge the water from the heater matrix, result, no water in the footwell:clap2:
Aaaaaaaaaaaaggggggggh O Rings!
- Thread starter JamesBB
- Start date
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Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
- Posts
- 12,465
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- Plaistow
I just placed a good old flora margarine(large) tub to catch what little came out .
When you slightly release the clamp a small steady flow easy to fill your tub
When you slightly release the clamp a small steady flow easy to fill your tub
I just placed a good old flora margarine(large) tub to catch what little came out .
When you slightly release the clamp a small steady flow easy to fill your tub
Can't believe it isn't butter...
Sure you only get whatever present in matrix and pipes
Probably easiest solution of all
But changing O-rings is also a good opportunity to change out some of the coolant for fresh & change the radiator plug to metal version if not done already.
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
- Posts
- 12,465
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- Plaistow
Code:
I flush all my cars just as summer approaches including dropping oils ect ect nice and wArm I have a brass defender rad plug sitting here ready to go inCan't believe it isn't butter...
Sure you only get whatever present in matrix and pipes
Probably easiest solution of all
But changing O-rings is also a good opportunity to change out some of the coolant for fresh & change the radiator plug to metal version if not done already.
Mine is starting to chew as they do was hoping is was the same size , what one you got screwed into yours ?
Last edited:
I have a brass one similar to your photo, got it of the bay
one like this: Range Rover P38 Brass Thermostat Radiator Plug Cap & Rubber Washer | eBay
one like this: Range Rover P38 Brass Thermostat Radiator Plug Cap & Rubber Washer | eBay
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
- Posts
- 12,465
- Location
- Plaistow
Cool I'm pretty sure they are standerd mine was £1.95 free postage defender ones are cheaper
JamesBB
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- 789
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- Sandwich. Kent.
I may get one of those too.
Although may not change coolant this time as it has only been in there a year and I do not do many miles.
As soon as I have light and time and dry(ish) weather I will get in there and change the o rings, mess with the heater blend flaps too.
Found some videos on YouTube on the o ring change.
Although may not change coolant this time as it has only been in there a year and I do not do many miles.
As soon as I have light and time and dry(ish) weather I will get in there and change the o rings, mess with the heater blend flaps too.
Found some videos on YouTube on the o ring change.
JamesBB
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- 789
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- Sandwich. Kent.
O rings done!!
I found you need to put a fair bit of pressure on the pipes to push them back into the plastic moldings, they almost snap in when you have done it properly.
Topped up with fresh coolant and burped while engine running.
So far no leaks.
Both pipes getting hot, so I am guessing the air is out of the heater. Will check in the morning and re-burp if needed.
Then onto the heater blend motor.
Cheers for all advice.
I found you need to put a fair bit of pressure on the pipes to push them back into the plastic moldings, they almost snap in when you have done it properly.
Topped up with fresh coolant and burped while engine running.
So far no leaks.
Both pipes getting hot, so I am guessing the air is out of the heater. Will check in the morning and re-burp if needed.
Then onto the heater blend motor.
Cheers for all advice.
JamesBB
Well-Known Member
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- 789
- Location
- Sandwich. Kent.
While I was in there, I also took out the temp sensor that clips to the pipe.
In the house I clipped it to a radiator pipe with meter on the contacts, cranked on the heating and within a few seconds the resistance reading was going down from about 50-60K to 20-25K. I presume it would have continued to drop but decided it must be working enough.
In the house I clipped it to a radiator pipe with meter on the contacts, cranked on the heating and within a few seconds the resistance reading was going down from about 50-60K to 20-25K. I presume it would have continued to drop but decided it must be working enough.
JamesBB
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- 789
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- Sandwich. Kent.
All seems dry this morning, getting hot too in the cabin.
I think I have removed any air locks. I have a short drive to work tomorrow, that will be the tester I suppose.....
I think I have removed any air locks. I have a short drive to work tomorrow, that will be the tester I suppose.....
- Posts
- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
O rings done!!
I found you need to put a fair bit of pressure on the pipes to push them back into the plastic moldings, they almost snap in when you have done it properly.
Topped up with fresh coolant and burped while engine running.
So far no leaks.
Both pipes getting hot, so I am guessing the air is out of the heater. Will check in the morning and re-burp if needed.
Then onto the heater blend motor.
Cheers for all advice.
Other than overcoming the O'rings there should be no need to push the pipes in with force. They are located on two square pegs inside the matrix. Cutouts in the pipes engage on these pegs to align the pipes.
JamesBB
Well-Known Member
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- 789
- Location
- Sandwich. Kent.
Got you. The snap in feeling I had I am positive would have been overcoming the o rings, I could feel it suddenly seat in another 2 or 3 mm.
