P38A A series of faults

At the risk of dragging things back on topic; I managed to extract the OSF air spring and then the Turbo today and give it a clean ahead of strip down and rebuild (I poured out a fair bit of oil from it). I was really surprised to find the wastegate plumbed directly into the turbo with no form of ECU management of boost control, and only the MAP sensor to tell the ECU how much fuel to use.

tomcat59alan said:

You mean you didn't do it for free??

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Only for holidaychicken. He charges double for broke-again.

kurtjohnson10 said:

I know mate ,
It was a comment someone made to someone that i was expensive and that i must be making a fortune on what i sell
I do not charge enough to cover postage half the time

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Kurt, your stuff is definitely good value. I would never go to Dunlop for a refurb, but the two key items we could do with are the NRV's & Plungers. Everything else is easy.

Slooby said:

Hmmm
https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/eas-plunger-repair.47245/#post-386891
Off to rummage in my selection of O rings...

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Let us know if you are successful. I tried this on a spare plunger, but the section of o-ring fell out when cutting it. It really needs some adhesive to retain it.

@pwood999, sure, this arrived today and I'm about to have a go at making up some inserts now:



Did you go oversize too and still have problems with them popping out of the plungers then?

In other news I think I'm keeping a few companies in business right now with the amount of stuff I've been ordering :/

135 quid on oil from Westway Oils (20l of Synthetic 5w40, 20l of Dexron III and 5l of Synthetic 75W90)

Then a whole load of bits from Island 4x4 again to fix split gaiters on the front axle

I've got all the air springs out now, and am leaving them off at the front to give me access to clean up all the oil that's been splashing about the engine bay and access to the turbo that I've also extracted to rebuild. The transmission cooler rad in the NSF corner is caked in oily muck that I'm carefully dissolving off, that aluminium mud shield that's welded to the back of it (why welded!?!) has broken away on the outside and I kinda want to make it removable long term so it can be got out of the way to clean, I think my fabrication skills and rivnut tool are going to see some action soon.

Slooby said:

@pwood999, sure, this arrived today and I'm about to have a go at making up some inserts now:
Did you go oversize too and still have problems with them popping out of the plungers then?

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I used a 70mm x 5mm cross section, so maybe that's the problem. If you are successful I can send some plungers for you to do !!

I'm currently pondering; superglue or not to superglue?

The new insert is thinner as I can't replicate the stepped original

Hmm, well I've just fired one god knows where across the room testing it with my blow gun off the compressor; so superglue it is!

Superglue was a bust as it's all a bit too fiddly, so have to hope that the larger diameter does the job and the pressure I put it under with my blow gun isn't representative of what the solenoid plunger actually sees :/

Slooby said:

I'm currently pondering; superglue or not to superglue?

The new insert is thinner as I can't replicate the stepped original

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I don't like Superglue. Araldite is OK.

pwood999 said:

Kurt, your stuff is definitely good value. I would never go to Dunlop for a refurb, but the two key items we could do with are the NRV's & Plungers. Everything else is easy.

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Plungers are easy if you buy the potting compound and refill your old ones once you drill some of the old rubber out or my mate once heated the rubber up and used a bodger to remover rubber while the red hot stem was in a vice.
You can even sand them down a little and get a stronger spring for them to compensate for the loss in height due to rubbing down.
Just take a small amount off the base to get to a flat seal again, or slowly linish on very fine sandpaper. Ensuring it has a flat sealable base when done.

yes sir i can boogie, i can boogie all night long

After repairing and fitting valve blocks since 1993 on the first Rangies with EAS i have done many a swift repair on the others over the years and more than i care to remember on P38
I have also never had one returned due to failure yet - must be doing something right - though the wife may disagree

@kurtjohnson10 Sorry, getting confused again (I blame my addled brain from talking to my ex again)

I'm not touching the insert on this end of the plunger:


But this one, which seems to be flush:


And falls out:


The insert I've cut from the Nitrile cord starts off looking like the one to the left of this pic, while the original is stepped (but not very pliable and falls out) is to the right:


Once I'd got it in place I had been trimming it flush with the plunger top, should I be leaving it slightly proud? I'm not entirely sure what it's there for in the first place

Have grabbed some epoxy to add some adhesive layer between the new insert and the seat

Slooby said:

@kurtjohnson10 Sorry, getting confused again (I blame my addled brain from talking to my ex again)

I'm not touching the insert on this end of the plunger:

But this one, which seems to be flush:

And falls out:

The insert I've cut from the Nitrile cord starts off looking like the one to the left of this pic, while the original is stepped (but not very pliable and falls out) is to the right:

Once I'd got it in place I had been trimming it flush with the plunger top, should I be leaving it slightly proud? I'm not entirely sure what it's there for in the first place

Have grabbed some epoxy to add some adhesive layer between the new insert and the seat

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Try this and save your self hours and lots of money buying bits.
Warm the solenoid plunger up , the rubber will go soft then push the rubber through that's already in the middle from the back end of the plunger. gently push it through till you get a flat base trim and walllaaah, you may need to reheat to keep it warm and soft.

Slooby said:

@kurtjohnson10 Sorry, getting confused again (I blame my addled brain from talking to my ex again)

I'm not touching the insert on this end of the plunger:

But this one, which seems to be flush:

And falls out:

The insert I've cut from the Nitrile cord starts off looking like the one to the left of this pic, while the original is stepped (but not very pliable and falls out) is to the right:

Once I'd got it in place I had been trimming it flush with the plunger top, should I be leaving it slightly proud? I'm not entirely sure what it's there for in the first place

Have grabbed some epoxy to add some adhesive layer between the new insert and the seat

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Doing it that way you have shown will in my opinion just cause valve block issues when it breaks off and sticks behind a solenoid or NRV.

Yeah, now I've had a poke around with a cocktail stick (oooerrr mrs) I've realised that the 'seat' is actually a lip and meant to be the retainer for the insert...right, heat gun and pliers

Urgh, this isn't exactly going to plan; heat isn't helping...need a rethink

Hum, so nitrile rubber doesn't really soften with heat hence its use in this sort of application, it remains pretty stable until basically it catches fire, and burning/burnt nitrile rubber is 'a bad thing' (tm) due to the release of hydrofluoric acid 'a VERY bad thing' (tm) if you get it on your skin.

I may have to resort to a silicon potting compound I fear

Slooby said:

Urgh, this isn't exactly going to plan; heat isn't helping...need a rethink

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It has to be heated slowly - doing it too quick just heats everything up before it can supple the rubber then pliers can be used.