A load of 90 Questions.....

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Bustrucket

Active Member
Posts
383
Location
Shropshire
Here we go - I need to sort the 90 for it's MoT in August so I need to know about the following:

1. The door frames are rusty at the bottom and the frame that holds the window mechanism on the o/s door has rotted away at one corner. Therefore I daren't open the window on the move as it has a tendency to fall out of it's runners. The door does open and close, and it locks - but the rot is taking it's toll on the frame and the bottom hinge on the driver's side door is threatening to pull through the alloy skin.

Will the doors pass the MoT in this state? There are no external sharp edges but the door hinge issue might upset the MoT man.

2. Will 110 front doors fit the 90? There is a pair of reasonable 110 doors on ebay that I can repair and aren't too far away - but will they fit?

3. What should I pay for a decent early lift-handle 90 o/s door from a scrapyard? Craddock's quoted me three hundred quid for a complete s/hand later style door, which I think is taking the urine slightly, especially as Paddock will supply a bare new door for £218.

4. Whilst the chassis appears solid, the front mudflap mounts are 'ripe'. Can I just cut these off, grind back to the chassis outrigger and paint it all without upsetting the MoT man?

5. The bulkhead has done the usual trick of rusting on the top corners. The o/s is the worst, and will need some fairly major patching. How hard a job is this? How much needs to be removed for access?

6. The cappings that run between the hard top and the rear wing have rotted. What are they called? (I need to order a pair and i'm not sure what to ask for! :eek: ).

7. How do I time a 2.5 NAD? The fuelling is all to cock and starting from cold can be awkward (and bloody smoky). I suspect the timing is slightly out, and the fuel pump isn't dumping the fuel in at the right time. Is it a chain or gear driven fuel pump? Once warm the engine runs ok, but is smoky and sluggish - 55mph at the most, and it gets there at a decidedly glacial pace.

8. The handbrake light on the dashboard doesn't illuminate. Is this an MoT fail?

Sorry for the big bundle of questions, but if anyone can answer any of them, i'd be most grateful :D

Thanks muchly.....
 
i doubt if there is a single question in that list that the answer to couldnt be found by doing a search on here
 
Here we go - I need to sort the 90 for it's MoT in August so I need to know about the following:

1. The door frames are rusty at the bottom and the frame that holds the window mechanism on the o/s door has rotted away at one corner. Therefore I daren't open the window on the move as it has a tendency to fall out of it's runners. The door does open and close, and it locks - but the rot is taking it's toll on the frame and the bottom hinge on the driver's side door is threatening to pull through the alloy skin.

Will the doors pass the MoT in this state? There are no external sharp edges but the door hinge issue might upset the MoT man.

If the door is insecure, in the opinion of the tester, it will fail. Otherwise OK.

2. Will 110 front doors fit the 90? There is a pair of reasonable 110 doors on ebay that I can repair and aren't too far away - but will they fit?

Yes, they'll fit, but lift-up handles and push-button ones have different strikers, so they need to match.

3. What should I pay for a decent early lift-handle 90 o/s door from a scrapyard? Craddock's quoted me three hundred quid for a complete s/hand later style door, which I think is taking the urine slightly, especially as Paddock will supply a bare new door for £218.

There's a lot of work and a lot of other parts needed to fettle up a bare new door. Try to get a reasonable complete door - it's not hard to repair the frame and Paddocks do the repair profile. You do sometimes get bargains on flea-bay - I got a pair of 1 year old doors, with leccy windows, for £150! You've got to be patient though.

4. Whilst the chassis appears solid, the front mudflap mounts are 'ripe'. Can I just cut these off, grind back to the chassis outrigger and paint it all without upsetting the MoT man?

Yes.

5. The bulkhead has done the usual trick of rusting on the top corners. The o/s is the worst, and will need some fairly major patching. How hard a job is this? How much needs to be removed for access?

Dunno - never done it and that would be beyond my capabilities.

6. The cappings that run between the hard top and the rear wing have rotted. What are they called? (I need to order a pair and i'm not sure what to ask for! :eek: ).

They're called Tub Cappings. They're not an MOT item (unless there's sharp edges). Try to get galvanised replacements - Craddocks do them I think.

7. How do I time a 2.5 NAD? The fuelling is all to cock and starting from cold can be awkward (and bloody smoky). I suspect the timing is slightly out, and the fuel pump isn't dumping the fuel in at the right time. Is it a chain or gear driven fuel pump? Once warm the engine runs ok, but is smoky and sluggish - 55mph at the most, and it gets there at a decidedly glacial pace.

Sorry, can't help you with that one.

8. The handbrake light on the dashboard doesn't illuminate. Is this an MoT fail?

No.

Sorry for the big bundle of questions, but if anyone can answer any of them, i'd be most grateful :D

Thanks muchly.....

.:)
 
if you need a hand with the bulkhead repairs, just shout......i used to have my own bodyshop so its not a problem.......

as for the doors...i binned two defender doors last week.........
 
my bulkhead was shot on both corners and top rail got three year old td5 one complete for 200 quid but lot of work to do but worth it ;)

£200 ! ouch

LANDROVER 300 TDI BULKHEAD on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 28-Jun-08 15:19:33 BST)

that was allmost as good a bargin as this "£600" fer a fiver

200tdi discovery fuel injector pump on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 27-Jun-08 17:13:11 BST)

anyone got any better bargins ? - evidence will be required
 
Thanks muchly for all the replies - Dad came down this weekend to visit and has checked out the running issues - before I start buggering around with the timing he's advised me to chuck a set of recon injectors in as he reckons one injector isn't spraying a decent jet - running on 3.5 cylinders is how he put it. The doors will have strengthening plates added to pass the test, and then when we get time we'll fabricate new bits and repair both doors properly.

The tub cappings will have the rust cut out and then sharp edges covered for the MoT unless I can find time to fit new ones. I'll get the new ones galvanised (if they aren't already) - I want to strip and refurbish all the extra metal work (light guards, bumpers etc) so they can go in with that lot to be dipped.

I do keep thinking about a new bulkhead, Dad looked at it and reckons it's not too hard to repair the rotted sections, though I am keeping an eye on a galvanised one on Ebay ;) I presume replacement isn't a hard job, just long and rather involved?

Thanks again - Trewey I owe you an e-beer :cool:
 
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