A few niggles

Hey chaps, just a few niggles...
1. There is a rattling sound ( I think from the back of the engine) that goes away when the clutch is depressed.
2. When in 4th, if I let off the throttle, then accelerate, the gear stick clicks backwards.
3. Door seals, drivers side leaks in water (I think between the door top and bottom) the passanger does the same, also on the passanger door, the side where the lock is, quite abit of light is getting in, and I presume a draught(I want to make the interior keep heat abit better)
Is it as simple as replace seals ?
4. When in 4th + OD the OD handle rattles, and makes a very annoying noise
Thanks for your time, any useful comments welcome

All standard Landie stuff. 1. may just be clutch release bearing
2.engine gear box mounts
3. Fit Debender seals
4. Time to fit an elastic band made from an old inner tube.

Cheers divie,
1. Is the bearing thing a real issue? Or just live with it?
2. How hard is it to replace the mounts?
3. I hear I need to cut the door frame or something?
4. Where do I need to attatch the rubber band?
Thanks again

Number 2 is more likely internal gearbox playing reckon.

Rattlegun said:

Number 2 is more likely internal gearbox playing reckon.

Click to expand...

+1

Loose rear mainshaft nut or sloppy springs in the 3/4 syncro

Ben. I would live with the release bearing. Engine mounts can be done fairly easy by undoing and lifting the engine enough to get them out. Defender seals need a bit of attention with a stanley knife. Live with gearbox mounts it may be that your box has to come out to check other issues as suggested by Rattlegun. I will be making some mainshaft nut tools in the next few weeks, I will post when ready and people can borrow as required.

If you have a weekend spare, you can sort all those out in one go, even the release bearing. You do need to remove the seatbox and other bits to do that though.

Be careful if you jack the gearbox up to remove the mounts, you can bend the handbrake linkages if your not careful. Just remember to unhook it all first (and prop).

If you remove the seatbox you can easily check the mainshaft nut, mounts and if your so inclined (i.e. your a masochist) you can pull the box off and change the bearing. But if you do that, you may as well fit a new clutch and pressure plate at the same time. Use an expensive brand if you do change bearing or other clutch bits, ideally genuine LR or as expensive.

Good luck

Hi again chaps, how do I/ how hard is it to tighten the main shaft nut ?
I don't think I'm competent to take the gearbox out :/
And my engine mounts do look like they've seen better days, when I lift the engine to replace, do I need an engine lift ? Or can I put some wood on the bottom of the sump and use a normal jack? Also could I make anything misaligned in replacing them? Also what about the gearbox can I just do the engine mounts without removing the gearbox?
Thanks again

Should be able to do gear box mounts with jack and blocks. Remove seatbox and exhaust for access.
Should have no alignment problems as long as you get the right mounts on the right side.
Not sure about engine mounts as I'd be abit wary about breaking pipes. But as long as you're careful...


And mainshaft nut is easy just remove cover at rear of transfer box.

The cover you speak of, is this where my overdrive is bolted on? I guess i would have to remove the overdrive for access ?
also are there differnt mounts for diesels and petrols? I read online there isnt, however my parts catalouge says otherwise

Yes you'll need to remove the overdrive and the cover plate on the top, and you'll see the nut on the back of the mainshaft.

Petrols have round mounts diesels have slightly chunkier rectangular ones but they're interchangable

Ok thanks chaps, will have a look tomorrow, soberness depending