95 disco "dead" should I use dealer or other shop?

My wife just called complaining about the steering being difficult,
sounded to me like it was cavitating/pump problems. A few minutes later
I get a call saying that there was a "horrible" noise from underneath,
it wont move and and putting it in park wont hold it.

The long and short of this is it needs towing somewhere, I live about
230 km's from the nearest dealer (Edmonton AB) and all there is locally
is a ford and dodge dealer. I think my autoclub membership will tow it
to the LR dealer, but I'm wondering if this is the type of thing that a
local shop can handle, or am I better off going to the dealer?

Also, I know this is going to hurt $$$ wise, anyone got an idea what a
trans will set me back? I'm pretty sure it was actually replaced not
long before we bought it about a year ago, but I dont think it was by a
dealer and will have to dig out the paperwork, so in any case I'm
preparing myself for worst case scenario...

thanks in advance...

On or around Wed, 06 Oct 2004 16:13:05 GMT, GS <whoknows@no_spam.com>
enlightened us thusly:

>My wife just called complaining about the steering being difficult,
>sounded to me like it was cavitating/pump problems. A few minutes later
>I get a call saying that there was a "horrible" noise from underneath,
>it wont move and and putting it in park wont hold it

uh-oh...

might of course be something (relatively) simple like a half shaft or
propshaft or somesuch. If it's still running, try moving it with the
difflock engaged...

visual check for disconnected propshaft would be a good idea first, I
suppose.

Austin Shackles wrote:

> On or around Wed, 06 Oct 2004 16:13:05 GMT, GS <whoknows@no_spam.com>
> enlightened us thusly:
>
>
>>My wife just called complaining about the steering being difficult,
>>sounded to me like it was cavitating/pump problems. A few minutes later
>>I get a call saying that there was a "horrible" noise from underneath,
>>it wont move and and putting it in park wont hold it
>
>
> uh-oh...
>
> might of course be something (relatively) simple like a half shaft or
> propshaft or somesuch. If it's still running, try moving it with the
> difflock engaged...
>
> visual check for disconnected propshaft would be a good idea first, I
> suppose.
>

Thanks for the reply...

Just talked to my wife on the phone, the towing guy can't figure out how
to tow it (big surprise here) but says that it will drive with the
difflock in, which could be good news I s'pose...

I told her to have him read the manual and see how to put the TC in
neutral, and if he had ANY doubt to call someone that KNEW something
before he moved it.

I'll keep ya posted...

"GS" <whoknows@no_spam.com> wrote in message
news:IUV8d.33546$223.27958@edtnps89...

>
> Thanks for the reply...
>
> Just talked to my wife on the phone, the towing guy can't figure out how
> to tow it (big surprise here) but says that it will drive with the
> difflock in, which could be good news I s'pose...
>
> I told her to have him read the manual and see how to put the TC in
> neutral, and if he had ANY doubt to call someone that KNEW something
> before he moved it.
>
> I'll keep ya posted...

I'd suspect the rear Diff or half shaft. He Should be able to put the
transfer box in neutral but the Handbrake and park if it is the diff or half
shaft will be u/s.

Lee D

"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "GS" <whoknows@no_spam.com> wrote in message
> news:IUV8d.33546$223.27958@edtnps89...
> I'd suspect the rear Diff or half shaft. He Should be able to put the
> transfer box in neutral but the Handbrake and park if it is the diff or
> half shaft will be u/s.

Just for clarification I'm thinking rear diff.

Undoing the rear prop ( 8 nuts and bolts ) and driving to the Landrover
agent with diff lock engaged should be feasible. Again assuming it's what I
think it is. To be certain jack up the rear axle (having first chocked the
front wheels good and proper) and try turning both wheels forwards at the
same time with the handbrake on. If they turn anything more than the ususal
slack then its as suspected. If the wheels turn against each other only with
the hand brake on then sounds like the Diff is ok.

Lee D

> Just talked to my wife on the phone, the towing guy can't figure out how
> to tow it (big surprise here) but says that it will drive with the
> difflock in, which could be good news I s'pose...

> I told her to have him read the manual and see how to put the TC in
> neutral, and if he had ANY doubt to call someone that KNEW something
> before he moved it.

> I'll keep ya posted...

I seem to recall you can't tow it without removing one or both of the
prop shafts, unless you want to completely knacker it, or is that just
Range Rovers of a certain age?

--
If you received this through the miracle of modern technology then all
is well; if not then situation normal.
Chris father of ( also at [email protected] )
www.users.zetnet.co.uk/barnes_firsnorton

Lee_D wrote:

> "Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>"GS" <whoknows@no_spam.com> wrote in message
>>news:IUV8d.33546$223.27958@edtnps89...
>>I'd suspect the rear Diff or half shaft. He Should be able to put the
>>transfer box in neutral but the Handbrake and park if it is the diff or
>>half shaft will be u/s.
>
>
> Just for clarification I'm thinking rear diff.
>
> Undoing the rear prop ( 8 nuts and bolts ) and driving to the Landrover
> agent with diff lock engaged should be feasible. Again assuming it's what I
> think it is. To be certain jack up the rear axle (having first chocked the
> front wheels good and proper) and try turning both wheels forwards at the
> same time with the handbrake on. If they turn anything more than the ususal
> slack then its as suspected. If the wheels turn against each other only with
> the hand brake on then sounds like the Diff is ok.
>
> Lee D
>
>
The tow truck guy ended up going and getting his deck unit, so I'm just
waiting to hear from the local Ford dealer on what they have or have not
found....