90 Defender rear crossmember 93 (k)

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Dr Strangeglove

Well-Known Member
Posts
693
Location
Lancashire
I am looking at getting a replacement rear crossmember for my Defender 90, K reg (93).

Looking around I have seen RCP do one that is from 3mm steel and includes the extensions.

Has anyone used this type and can comment if it's good or bad?

Alternatively, can you recommend a good one?

Also, please flag up if any out there should be avoided.

Thanks for your help.

Mick
 
Whatever make/model x member you get, make sure it is galvanised.
Extensions are available in different lengths.
 
That's the plan. I either buy galvanised or get a plain one galvanised - I just don't want one with that black "help it rot" paint!

Most galv places have a minimum charge, ours used to be 90 quid and that was 5 odd yrs ago, so remember to factor that into the price.
 
I am looking at getting a replacement rear crossmember for my Defender 90, K reg (93).

Looking around I have seen RCP do one that is from 3mm steel and includes the extensions.

Has anyone used this type and can comment if it's good or bad?

Alternatively, can you recommend a good one?

Also, please flag up if any out there should be avoided.

Thanks for your help.

Mick

RCP product is good quality and well made, I’ve had Two from them over the Years - but it’s bare metal in and out, so get it treated.
 
I am looking at getting a replacement rear crossmember for my Defender 90, K reg (93).

Looking around I have seen RCP do one that is from 3mm steel and includes the extensions.

Has anyone used this type and can comment if it's good or bad?

Alternatively, can you recommend a good one?

Also, please flag up if any out there should be avoided.

Thanks for your help.

Mick
Is the rest of your chassis absolutely solid? I replaced my rear cross member, but a few shor years later ended up replacing the lot. I would have been better of putting the money towards a whole chassis. Presumably you've given yours a good going over with a hammer?
 
Is the rest of your chassis absolutely solid? I replaced my rear cross member, but a few shor years later ended up replacing the lot. I would have been better of putting the money towards a whole chassis. Presumably you've given yours a good going over with a hammer?

Is the rest of the chassis solid? - good question! Yes I have done the hammer test, but that only tells you so much and I understand it is likely to be worse than it seems - I know the rotting from the inside scenario so I am under no illusion that all is good.

I have already replaced my rear outriggers, my near side front outrigger, and rebuilt the dumb irons - so understand there is likely to be more areas to deal with. I have my front off-side outrigger to do (already have this) and the only reason I haven't done this yet is because I need to pull the wiring loom through and whilst looking into that I realised the crossmember needed attention so decided to do it sooner rather than later (as I would prefer to avoid the advisory on the MOT).

Sense would say keep the money and put it into a chassis swap - but that would be a sensitive issue on the home politics front and I will have to save for such a big outlay. Time I have but money is in shorter supply!!

However, a very kind gentleman from another forum has offered me a used rear crossmember that sounds in good enough condition for my requirements. It will need some fettling to fit as it is still attached to chassis it was fitted to. (This was a similar scenario to yours - replaced crossmember then needed the new chassis shortly after.) I have the welder, plasma cutter and enough spare steel to deal with the task. I also have enough time and an abundance of swear words so good to go on that front too.

I will keep you updated on my progress.
 
Is the rest of the chassis solid? - good question! Yes I have done the hammer test, but that only tells you so much and I understand it is likely to be worse than it seems - I know the rotting from the inside scenario so I am under no illusion that all is good.

I have already replaced my rear outriggers, my near side front outrigger, and rebuilt the dumb irons - so understand there is likely to be more areas to deal with. I have my front off-side outrigger to do (already have this) and the only reason I haven't done this yet is because I need to pull the wiring loom through and whilst looking into that I realised the crossmember needed attention so decided to do it sooner rather than later (as I would prefer to avoid the advisory on the MOT).

Sense would say keep the money and put it into a chassis swap - but that would be a sensitive issue on the home politics front and I will have to save for such a big outlay. Time I have but money is in shorter supply!!

However, a very kind gentleman from another forum has offered me a used rear crossmember that sounds in good enough condition for my requirements. It will need some fettling to fit as it is still attached to chassis it was fitted to. (This was a similar scenario to yours - replaced crossmember then needed the new chassis shortly after.) I have the welder, plasma cutter and enough spare steel to deal with the task. I also have enough time and an abundance of swear words so good to go on that front too.

I will keep you updated on my progress.
Fully understand that Mick and appreciate I was describing a perfect situation - and life's not generally like that! The bloody annoying thing too is that galv chassis have just about doubled in price since I did mine and that was not too many years ago. :( Top tip - don't take your gearbox cross member off :eek:
 
Fully understand that Mick and appreciate I was describing a perfect situation - and life's not generally like that! The bloody annoying thing too is that galv chassis have just about doubled in price since I did mine and that was not too many years ago. :( Top tip - don't take your gearbox cross member off :eek:

The price of a galv chassis certainly looks higher than it was, which is a real shame. When I look at old build threads and see the prices paid I am shocked at the prices now.

The other issue with a new chassis is all the new other bits too. With a 30 year old truck I would expect quite a few additional items required and that may not go down well!!

I do expect a change at some time, but until that point I am trying to do other jobs that are more manageable financially. I have already swapped both axle cases - one cost me £80 (rear) but needed the full electrolysis treatment, however the hubs and stub axles were in good nick on that so it worked out being good value. Fitted Timken bearings, Corteco seals but Britpart calipers and discs. I have done a similar thing with the front axle but I picked up an axle case for £100 (that one was in great condition and looked brand new - I thinkitmust be off a TD5 as it didn't have a tapped breather). That has had the same treatment with seals and bearings, plus new swivel housings (thankfully I got my swivel kits for around the £120 each mark where now, only six months later, they are in the region of £180!). Also fitted a set of calipers and vented discs which I managed to get for £100.

It's a slowly does it approach but my spending is not raising too many eyebrows!

If I can get this crossmember and front outrigger done then underneath it will look tidy enough for now.

As you can see it's a bit of a budget "improvement" but without cutting corners on important things like seals and bearings. Hopefully it will last me quite a few years.

But the bodywork is another story.......!
 
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I recently had the front crossmember and chassis legs replaced on my 90. It wasn’t cheap but the specialist who did it stripped the front and did it properly. The cost wasn’t much different to what I could have picked up a galvy chassis for a few years ago!
 
The price of a galv chassis certainly looks higher than it was, which is a real shame. When I look at old build threads and see the prices paid I am shocked at the prices now.

The other issue with a new chassis is all the new other bits too. With a 30 year old truck I would expect quite a few additional items required and that may not go down well!!

I do expect a change at some time, but until that point I am trying to do other jobs that are more manageable financially. I have already swapped both axle cases - one cost me £80 (rear) but needed the full electrolysis treatment, however the hubs and stub axles were in good nick on that so it worked out being good value. Fitted Timken bearings, Corteco seals but Britpart calipers and discs. I have done a similar thing with the front axle but I picked up an axle case for £100 (that one was in great condition and looked brand new - I thinkitmust be off a TD5 as it didn't have a tapped breather). That has had the same treatment with seals and bearings, plus new swivel housings (thankfully I got my swivel kits for around the £120 each mark where now, only six months later, they are in the region of £180!). Also fitted a set of calipers and vented discs which I managed to get for £100.

It's a slowly does it approach but my spending is not raising too many eyebrows!

If I can get this crossmember and front outrigger done then underneath it will look tidy enough for now.

As you can see it's a bit of a budget "improvement" but without cutting corners on important things like seals and bearings. Hopefully it will last me quite a few years.

But the bodywork is another story.......!
Sounds like you're taking a very sensible approach!
I fitted a pair of Britpart calipers on the rear of mine eight years ago and they've never been a problem.
Obviously there's a fair few areas of the body to keep an eye on. IMO important bits are the tub mounts through the upstands from the tubular outrigger and seat belt mounts. If you've had some outriggers done you might have already dealt with these areas. The bulkhead goes without saying, then there's the rear tub bolt points through the rear tub angled cross member. You're about to disconnect that when you do the rear cross member. If that aluminium angles bar on the tub is in bad nick, it might be worth changing it while it's all apart at the back. It's a bugger of a job though!
 
Sounds like you're taking a very sensible approach!
I fitted a pair of Britpart calipers on the rear of mine eight years ago and they've never been a problem.
Obviously there's a fair few areas of the body to keep an eye on. IMO important bits are the tub mounts through the upstands from the tubular outrigger and seat belt mounts. If you've had some outriggers done you might have already dealt with these areas. The bulkhead goes without saying, then there's the rear tub bolt points through the rear tub angled cross member. You're about to disconnect that when you do the rear cross member. If that aluminium angles bar on the tub is in bad nick, it might be worth changing it while it's all apart at the back. It's a bugger of a job though!
Thanks for the heads up, I will look at those places when I take the crossmember off.
 
Well I collected the crossmember from a very nice gentleman and brought it home to prepare for fitting.

It had been cut off the old chassis and the old pieces were still inside. Removing them wasn't easy but I got there in the end. The crossmember is in good nick and galvanised so hopefully will last until the chassis needs replacing.

20220831_103948.jpg

The crossmember

20220831_134721.jpg

Drilling out the plug welds

20220831_154027.jpg

First one out

20220831_191110.jpg

Both out

20220831_192406.jpg

The removed bits
 
What is odd about this crossmember ? [ not the patch to right of hitch done some years ago ] No prizes.:(:D
 

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Well almost right, jacking tubes have been removed altogether to get rid of a crud trapping rust traps [ just some of several as anyone who has worked on a chassis will know.] Pics show, typical rot getting through from inside. Tube cut out and just some of the crud that came with it. New corner brace. Flush welded patch. Makes for easy to clean out section.LR19.JPG LR18.JPG LR17.JPG LR16.JPG
 
Sounds like you're taking a very sensible approach!
I fitted a pair of Britpart calipers on the rear of mine eight years ago and they've never been a problem.
Obviously there's a fair few areas of the body to keep an eye on. IMO important bits are the tub mounts through the upstands from the tubular outrigger and seat belt mounts. If you've had some outriggers done you might have already dealt with these areas. The bulkhead goes without saying, then there's the rear tub bolt points through the rear tub angled cross member. You're about to disconnect that when you do the rear cross member. If that aluminium angles bar on the tub is in bad nick, it might be worth changing it while it's all apart at the back. It's a bugger of a job though!

I have used a few of the britpart calipers on my 90 and the d3, all with no issues.
 
Both the rear crossmember and the bulkhead outrigger is now done. It wasn't easy doing the work on my drive and it was another job i didn't know how to approach. However a bit of perseverance and I got there. I still have the wiring to do as I had to split the loom and I have decided to use some 13 core trailer cable to the back.

20220916_125051.jpg

Fitted

20220916_130148.jpg

A splash of paint added.

MOT in a couple of weeks so I need to get it sorted ASAP now.
 
Both the rear crossmember and the bulkhead outrigger is now done. It wasn't easy doing the work on my drive and it was another job i didn't know how to approach. However a bit of perseverance and I got there. I still have the wiring to do as I had to split the loom and I have decided to use some 13 core trailer cable to the back.

View attachment 274079
Fitted

View attachment 274080
A splash of paint added.

MOT in a couple of weeks so I need to get it sorted ASAP now.
Looks excellent. :)
 
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