6BT 90 Conversion Question
- Thread starter a5hl3y
- Start date
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aaronmorris
Head's a shed
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- 6,369
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- Doncaster
Well a few people shouted me here so I will try and give my two penneth.
But before I start what I will say is, if you think this is going to be a cheap process you are in lala land!
The good thing for you is, it is now easier than ever to get parts, not so much off the shelf, but made to order, as in, the gearbox/lt230 adapter and gear, engine mounts and gearbox mounts etc..
For a start you will need an engine/gearbox. As above, try and get a good one first time around, I didn't and fell out with mine and the love never came back and decided it wasn't for me, but that's another story.
It can work out cheaper to get a whole Daf 45 at times, but that depends if you have the facilities to store/strip it at your end, and ideally you will want the air governor valve off the truck if available and an air tank.
Transfer box, again ideally you will want the 1.003 gearing, but they're like rocking horse shit!
If you can find one you might pay £200-300ish.
Or you can convert your existing box which means buying a gears set at about £300 ish. But you will probably want an overhaul kit at the same time (I.e bearings, gaskets etc..) so add another £100.
To connect the gearbox to transfer box you will need an adapter, their is a chap on the Cummins landrover group (facebook) that makes/supply's them.
Along with the input gear to suit.
Costs I'm not so sure on now as it was 18 plus months since I bought mine.
You will want custom length props.
So depending on skill level you could cut and shut your old ones, or buy to length, done properly and balanced.
I think mine where £230 for something standard.
Add more if you want some super fandangled hd, wide angled doobry..
Alternator, most seem to use a transit one with vac pump. About £100 new.
Radiator/intercooler and pipe work.
A lot seem to use a full width TD/V8 rad, some with larger inlet/outlets added. Price?? Depends if you buy new/used etc..
Intercooler, you don't have to run one, I bought a universal one off ebay for around £90.
Pipework. You can soon spend £400 on it, (I can't remember exactly what I spent, I would have to look it up)
A quick trip to the local hydraulic shop can soon cost you £100 buying little adapters or oil feed hoses etc..
You will need to reverse the sump which means a new oil pickup pipe.
Some people have made their own, others have extended with suction hose.
Or you can buy the real deal, think mine was about £80 imported from the USA.
PAS.
The 6bt pump needs restricting or it will blow the seals in the LR steering box.
Now you have two options,
A- you use a prv to reduce the pressure getting to the steering box and reducing it down to 850psi or whatever lr specs are (I forget) Prv is about £40.
Or I believe you can now get your pump re-calibrated to only output lr pressures. Think they was £120 and was a recon at the same time.
Plus the obvious pipework to and from pump/box/reservoir.
Much less involved and a neater job by not using a PRV in my opinion.
Exhaust. It is what you want to make it.
I used weld together bends and a few lengths of straight pipe and it still cost me a good few hundred quid.
Or you can have one custom bent/made in stainless etc.. at double or more the cost.
Then it's all the other bits and bobs,
Hd springs.
Custom trans tunnel.
How to operate the high/low and diff lock. (some use air actuators)
Gear shifter. (I imported one from the USA at about £80) but again, they are like rocking horse shit.
Air tank and mounting.
Bottom water outlet is facing downwards (the wrong way) and idealy needs to face forward which is a custom made jobby. (Although I used one from a dodge ram).
I have most likely missed some stuff, but this should give you an idea of the work involved, it certainly isn't a quick couple of hours job.
You could easily spend £3000 on a conversion to a half decent standard (parts alone) it depends how high they are, what is good enough for some isn't for others.
But before I start what I will say is, if you think this is going to be a cheap process you are in lala land!
The good thing for you is, it is now easier than ever to get parts, not so much off the shelf, but made to order, as in, the gearbox/lt230 adapter and gear, engine mounts and gearbox mounts etc..
For a start you will need an engine/gearbox. As above, try and get a good one first time around, I didn't and fell out with mine and the love never came back and decided it wasn't for me, but that's another story.
It can work out cheaper to get a whole Daf 45 at times, but that depends if you have the facilities to store/strip it at your end, and ideally you will want the air governor valve off the truck if available and an air tank.
Transfer box, again ideally you will want the 1.003 gearing, but they're like rocking horse shit!
If you can find one you might pay £200-300ish.
Or you can convert your existing box which means buying a gears set at about £300 ish. But you will probably want an overhaul kit at the same time (I.e bearings, gaskets etc..) so add another £100.
To connect the gearbox to transfer box you will need an adapter, their is a chap on the Cummins landrover group (facebook) that makes/supply's them.
Along with the input gear to suit.
Costs I'm not so sure on now as it was 18 plus months since I bought mine.
You will want custom length props.
So depending on skill level you could cut and shut your old ones, or buy to length, done properly and balanced.
I think mine where £230 for something standard.
Add more if you want some super fandangled hd, wide angled doobry..
Alternator, most seem to use a transit one with vac pump. About £100 new.
Radiator/intercooler and pipe work.
A lot seem to use a full width TD/V8 rad, some with larger inlet/outlets added. Price?? Depends if you buy new/used etc..
Intercooler, you don't have to run one, I bought a universal one off ebay for around £90.
Pipework. You can soon spend £400 on it, (I can't remember exactly what I spent, I would have to look it up)
A quick trip to the local hydraulic shop can soon cost you £100 buying little adapters or oil feed hoses etc..
You will need to reverse the sump which means a new oil pickup pipe.
Some people have made their own, others have extended with suction hose.
Or you can buy the real deal, think mine was about £80 imported from the USA.
PAS.
The 6bt pump needs restricting or it will blow the seals in the LR steering box.
Now you have two options,
A- you use a prv to reduce the pressure getting to the steering box and reducing it down to 850psi or whatever lr specs are (I forget) Prv is about £40.
Or I believe you can now get your pump re-calibrated to only output lr pressures. Think they was £120 and was a recon at the same time.
Plus the obvious pipework to and from pump/box/reservoir.
Much less involved and a neater job by not using a PRV in my opinion.
Exhaust. It is what you want to make it.
I used weld together bends and a few lengths of straight pipe and it still cost me a good few hundred quid.
Or you can have one custom bent/made in stainless etc.. at double or more the cost.
Then it's all the other bits and bobs,
Hd springs.
Custom trans tunnel.
How to operate the high/low and diff lock. (some use air actuators)
Gear shifter. (I imported one from the USA at about £80) but again, they are like rocking horse shit.
Air tank and mounting.
Bottom water outlet is facing downwards (the wrong way) and idealy needs to face forward which is a custom made jobby. (Although I used one from a dodge ram).
I have most likely missed some stuff, but this should give you an idea of the work involved, it certainly isn't a quick couple of hours job.
You could easily spend £3000 on a conversion to a half decent standard (parts alone) it depends how high they are, what is good enough for some isn't for others.
a5hl3y
New Member
- Posts
- 5
- Location
- England, UK
Thanks for the input guys, I think if I was planning to do this myself I would have been a bit worried biting this much off, still sounds like it might be expensive tho as Aaron said so not sure what I'll be doing yet.
flat
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,075
- Location
- Far away from you!!
no might about it, it will cost a decent chunk
farmershort
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,067
- Location
- West Berkshire
TD6 from a bmw era rangie (this is now my standard response to engine swap questions - as I want to see how it's done!)
- Posts
- 1,692
- Location
- towie hell
before everyone and his dog were fitting cummins it was actually a cheapish conversion, thats why I started!
A engine and box was £250 a zf 5-42 shifter of a f350 was $50 oil pickup and dipstick £125
sundries and a lump of 4340 for the adapter £500
Ah the good ole days
A engine and box was £250 a zf 5-42 shifter of a f350 was $50 oil pickup and dipstick £125
sundries and a lump of 4340 for the adapter £500
Ah the good ole days
Im sure someone on here has got one already, maybe worth a new thread asking the question.
