4.6 HSE buying guide / tips?

Hi Everyone,
I'm new here, hope to become a regular on here - not though faults though!
My wife and I are looking at buying a 95 / 96 Range Rover 4.6 HSE.
I was wondering if anyone can point me towards a buyers guide, or suggest what I should look out for.
There's a lot of toys on these things - what's prone to going wrong?

Many thanks everyone, look forward to joining the Range Rover club so to speak.

Phil

Don't know where to start.

I purchased mine from an independent dealer. I wanted to get the RAC to check it over which was going to cost a lot because they charge extra because its a 4x4 and has a big engine.

The dealer suggested I spent the money on a warranty (£120 for 12 months) insted of the inspection (at the time £145 I think).

Anyway, I purchased the car and got the warranty. Within a month and having to MOT the car I had a bill of £1800 from Taunton Land Rover for the ABS pump, automatic gearbox selection switch and wiper motor. Warranty paid for 80% of it. Since then the car has been faultless - don't believe the negative stuff you hear about the Range Rover P38. If you look after it, it will look after you. I wouldn't drive anything else.

Good luck and make sure you get a warranty.

yeah, all cars cost cash to run. 4.6 might cost a bit more in fuel to run than most, but my next door neighbour has a run of the mill golf, and thats just cost him £2k to fix. VW labour is £76 per hour, and i thought LR had cornered the market!!. I have a 2.5DT and wouldnt swap it for anything (well maybe a DB9 )

i would have paid the RAC to inspect, as i think they check more and would cover more than a standard garage warranty.

best advise i would give, is try to find a local garage that specialises in 4x4 or even better one with ex-LR mechanics. it will save you a fortune over main dealer prices. cos all cars need fixing at some point, no matter what it is.

Thanks guys.

I've definitly decided to go with a 'trade' sale i.e. garage over a private buy.
Like you guys say warrenty!!

This water leak business I've read about. Can someone confirm that it is a pressurized header tank even when the engine is cold / not recently run that is the tell tail for the 'run a mile' expensive repair?????

Many thanks,

Phil

Also, out of 84k, 100k or 120k miles which is best to go for?
What I mean by this, is, would the higher mileage ones most likely have had the repairs made, and the 84k ones need all the average repairs within the year of owning it??

What's your thoughts on this please?

Cheers.