4.6 engine replacement

Anyone got a how to or step by step guides or just any advice on replacing a 4.6 engine on a p reg hse rangey. im tackling one after being done at my local auction. i didnt really check it over and bought with my heart. Any how im stuck with it now and have another engine being took out for me tomorrow and im going to fit next weekend and hopefully it all goes well and il be keeping it .

It's not as bad as it looks, as long as you are methodical and keep all fasteners etc in bags labelled with where they came from etc.

We replaced the engine in our Disco 2 over a few weeks in April/May this year, biggest investment was a new short motor, but while we had the lump out we did things like the clutch, power steering pipes under the radiator which were rusty, replaced hoses/water pump/thermostat etc etc.

You need a decent crane, and we took the bonnet off to give us headroom.

Yours is probably an auto, so you need to release the torque converter bolts by removing the lower bell housing rubber bungs so you can get a socket through, they are on the front side of the engine bell housing.

Take the radiator out and keep it clear from damage, we laid the PAS pump and pipes on one side without disconnecting, but ultimately had to change the hoses anyway.

Make sure the gearbox is well supported before you take the engine away, if you take the front downpipes and cats away completely, you can lower the engine down to access the top bell housing bolts etc etc.

Peter

Had mine out less than a month ago.

If it is auto you are suppose to undo the torque convertor bolts

Best bet is through the starter motor apeture only 4 bolts, but they are FT

Left the bonnet on mine, just took the grill etc out and all the rads.

Mine had 1 head off, the one with head on was a pig to get the top bolts on the bell housing

I had a 4 poster ramp and a crane.
I wedged a metal bar on top of chasis to support the gearbox/bell housing

took a couple of hours to get it out, taking off the time for exhaust removal.

If you get stuck Pm me and i will try to help

Ian

thanks for the replys people. i will be makin a start asap. Cant wait to drive it more than 5 miles. wanted one long enoough. hopefully have it done in the weekend but i doubt it

if it`s an auto be really careful that you don`t damage the crank position sensor ring fitted that is attached to the "flywheel"... believe me the pain of getting one engine out, replacing it with another, getting it all plumbed in and attached fully only to discover that the misfire you have is caused by a broken tooth on the sensor ring ie engine out again! on the upside it only took me 2 hours to get it out the second time. Seriously peeved at the time though!
good luck

So far today i spent alot of time removing the wiring loom as not to upset the lpg wiring. Lost loads of time with a bolt that rounded of on the plate that bolts to the gearbox. Has anyone here had to remove the sump to get to the torque converter bolts? i couldnt see any other way. Also hows best to get to the top bell housing bolts if i still have all th cats etc in situ? Its going to be out tomoorow if it likes it or not.

The engine can be lowered if the front mounts and the front downpipes are removed. If you don't take the exhausts off you stand a chance of damaging them, and for the sake of a few bolts it isn't worth it.

On our Disco 2 V8 with alloy sump we have rubber bungs to take out to access the torque converter flexplate bolts, although ours is a manual.

Peter

do i need to the remove the cross member that the exhausts are resting on at the moment?

I think you do, and I'm fairly sure that we did on ours.

The 8 bolts that hold that cross-member in place are usually solid rust and will break if you are not careful. They are hardened steel and a pig to drill out, we got through a pack of Ti coated HSS drills just removing one! The bracket is also under neath and at an angle so awkward to hold the drill square.

Soak the tops of the threads with WD40, lots of it and repeat hourly for 24 hours. The nuts are capacitance-welded to the back of the bracket and unless you hammer them out you cannot get a nut behind them. We had three bolts remaining out of eight when we bought our Disco 2, 3 we drilled and retapped and the remaining 2 we chopped the nut out and put new bolts and nylocs on.

Peter