L322 4.2 SC niggles and needs

As some of you know I've added to the collection of RR's with a 4.2 SC. Basically, the P38 needs the front cover doing due to water seepage and having had the bits sitting on the floor of the garage for two months it was getting impossible to find the down time with the P38 to get them done. I'm away for work 2-3 days a week and take the Cayenne as the wife likes driving it, but not parking it. The sloped back doesn't have the all round visibility that the P38 has. The P38 is an offroad vehicle with a seating position and design that allows all 4 corners to be seen. the Cayenne an SUV doesn't sporty yes, but not the all round visibility.. but I digress...

so the P38 I can only get my hands on at the weekend, along with spending time with the little one so any work needs to be finished at the end of the day/weekend or the wife and little one are housebound with no nursery, so I needed something to use while the P38 gets done. Up pops a 4.2SC at a cheeky price, mechanically sound, but as expected a few bits need sorting.

So here's a thread on getting them done..

Rear washer inop
venture cam inop
parking sensors not fully operational
reversing camera black screen.
DVD player not had a chance to play with but the cartridge wont eject
low coolant warning, with plenty of coolant - porus float methinks
Temp reads low and fluctuates between right in the middle and low
and a few other niggles.. paint needs a polish, no rear mudflaps, towbar needs stripping and painting lpg filler mounting looks ratty
couple of paint chips un attended to on the rear upper tailgate edge

so first things first.... have a fiddle and order some bits

the reverse camera I took apart and found the 4 pin plug after reseating worked, but poor picture. it failed again after a few days took it apart and it the taking it apart has given rise to a bit of damage on one of the circuit board components. i'm awaiting a 18mm bullet cam and going to retrofit a modern cam to replace the OEM. the OEM is 300+ and the bullet cam £9 worth giving it a try ! i'll do a photo walk through when the camera arrives.

I have the OEM paint and clear coat, an expansion bottle and thermostat and sealing gasket ring doing these is weather permitting. they are staying in the box till decent weather opportunity

put OEM rear mudflaps on today
took the venturecam apart and replaced the battery pack by following this



rear washer - the original arm was corroded to hell and using a wiper puller got it off. took the motor apart and no signs of the brown gunk the gar inside looks new and the grease not even spread out ! the multimeter shows 11.75v getting to the motor, however I cant trigger the motor on the stalk while holding a meter at the back. potentially it could be the pack attached to the motor drive unit. until someone can trigger the wiper to check the sense feed. I'm loathed to spend money on a motor without knowing if it is the motor...

Add to that Gearbox oil. I'm considering writing a guide for the about the ZF6hp26 in the technical section..

Oh and The Jag motor is Bullet proof but its Achilles heel is the coolant valley pipe that runs in the V under the charger, little bastard likes to go pop over 100k.

Also supercharger oil is a good idea..

Etc Etc..

Good luck with the work planned though..

Yep gearbox and filter .my version of RAVE stops short of the SC version

Got the reverse camera sorted out today.


Purchase off the bay of e an 18mm bullet camera having taken the old camera housing apart and measured the mounting tube. 18mm exactly. the camera was a princely sum of £9.74. Obviously, one of those rare occasions when something fails on a RR I could have taken it to dealer or an indi to have the work done. The OEM camera is more than £500 plus VAT plus fitting and is fairly low resolution. new cams are mass produced in huge numbers at higher resolution than 12 years ago. a PAL cam is needed.
Having taken the spoiler off, cleared out the old camera gubbins and cut the camera lead with sufficient length the allow OEM connection to the car side connectors. I'm not a big fan of cutting into OEM wiring.

All done there, cut the bullet cam cable mid way between the cam and the cable blister and pass the cam through the poem cable route. and solder the cables back together having slid the OEM grommet seal on. Like so..




I used heat shrink over the solder joints and then heat shrunk over that

Now time to offer the spoiler back up having passed the wires through the OEM holes and refitted the cable seals.

Now the wiring...

Camera comes with two cables one for power a simple black and red. and the other a male to male video lead with a break out red wire.

The original cabling has the video lead, a common in the shield and a white signal inside the shield. The OEM power is black and red. simple enough for the power.. black and red to black and red on the OEM cable retained from earlier.

The new camera cable has red black and yellow...The yellow is the video feed black to common in the shield. and red.. wasn't sure about and if this was needed to breakout to the red on the video cable. I tried without first and before heat shrinking and lo. it worked.

So what we need is the yellow to white and black to shield.. like this...



So my link cable looks like this

In close up...


Fabric taped and in place.. The connectors also got a wrap of fabric tape to prevent any annoying rattling..

Now everything back together and the need for another person to get the camera lined up. The Mrs sat in the seat timing me when vertical was mad which I marked with a pencil on the bullet cam.

All back together.. better quality can and with reversing bars. total cost £9.74.

Looking nice and rusty in there already

Hi Adam, looks an eay fix for the rear camera do you have details of the specific camera to order, tks

yes sure

djhRRV said:

Hi Adam, looks an eay fix for the rear camera do you have details of the specific camera to order, tks

Click to expand...

sure, here you go
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universa...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

the bracket is held on between the front and rear piece, it unscrews and bracket slips out

Rear wiper motor arrived yesterday. working from home today so took 10 mins to replace all works fine and dandy. one presumes with the lack of wear in the old motor the control unit had failed.

That's another job off the list... tick !

Well done on getting that one fixed

Cheers dave.

There wasn't much point doing a write up.. three 27 torx bolts and two plugs.

Went to pick little one up from nursery took the long way round stuck my toe down... good grief it shifts!

Started on the paintwork yesterday as It was dry.

Clean and a quick polish by hand. would like to get the machine polisher on it but only had time for a hand job..

Also took care of the unattended paint damage to the upper boot lid.

Rubbed back corrosion out. Primed, painted, clear coated 2000 grit to flush back. hand polished and bingo..



Paint has come up well. repair is good too, but could use a going over once it's stopped raining.

Looks good that

biketeacherdave said:

Looks good that

Click to expand...

Cheers dave.

It was peeing down this morning when I was polishing up with 2000 grit wet. fine when wet ... I backed it into the garage but the rain was running down the roof and couldn't get it dry enough for polish... even with towel rolled up above it water kept trickling down. It will come up nicely when not raining and a machine polish.

Have to do a scuff on the nearside front wheel arch too. Its not through the paint so a blow over and flat off will be good.

latest update,

taking the little one to Nursery I noticed a bit lumpy on tick over, slightly low at 500RPM and hunting. popped it on generic code reader and got P0056 as a fault code, for Bank 2 downstream O2 sensor heater. took it for a blast up the road to get it hot which has brought it level and smooth again. work is 2 miles from home and nursery a stop on the way so its not got nice and hot. Ordered 2 sensors today as it looks like its on the way out and will replace both as a pair

The jag V8 needs a hoon now and again

Henry_b said:

Any V8 needs a hooligan driving now and again

Click to expand...

Sorry @Henry_b had to correct that for you

J

when I went to look at the 4.2 and took it for a spin it had rude boy exhaust on it. fruity sounding wasn't the word, it had the silencers removed centre and rear, straight though.

the dealer agreed to change it for a normal exhaust.

its lasted 2 months..

today I noticed a whiff of exhaust fumes from the cabin air so after work suit off fed the little one and then slid underneath, flashlight in hand. on each downpipe the effing clowns have snapped a downpipe stud off and only one stud in place on each side, but packed out with 'sealant' so as the replacement O2 sensors arrived today I've just order a set of new downpipe studs and bolts and it looks like i'll be dropping the exhaust down at the weekend and putting new OEM studs in. what a bunch of twunts .. I mean really ! this is why I do my own spannering as I don't trust garages to do something without making a hash of it.. as ever it will take a bit of time to uncover the jobs that need doing and get it properly sorted I also noticed a fair amount welding wire attached to one join of the center box so while its off, I'll investigate why there's welding wire sticking onto it, clean it off and re weld

looks like i'll be spending the weekend on my back getting dirty

ukadamwest said:

when I went to look at the 4.2 and took it for a spin it had rude boy exhaust on it. fruity sounding wasn't the word,, it had the silencers removed centre and rear, straight though. the dealer agreed to change it for a normal exhaust. its lasted 2 months.. I noticed a whiff of exhaust fumes from the cabin air so after work suit off fed the little one and then slid underneath, flashlight in hand. on each downpipe the effing clowns have snapped a downpipe stud off and only one stud in place. but packed out with 'sealant' so as the replacement O2 sensors arrived today I've just order a set of new downpipe studs and bolts and it looks like i'll be dropping the exhaust down at the weekend and putting new OEM studs in. what a bunch of twunts .. I mean really ! this is why I do my own spannering as I don't trust garages to do something without making a hash of it

looks like i'll be spending the weekend on my back getting dirty

Click to expand...

****s..

Anywhoo

Atleast you know it'll be done properly when you do it

yeah.. the only thing is.. i'm not keen on putting the air suspension on high setting and popping an airspring and I was hoping to set to work on the P38 next weekend too.

bet it bloody rains too !

ukadamwest said:

yeah.. the only thing is.. i'm not keen on putting the air suspension on high setting and popping an airspring and I was hoping to set to work on the P38 next weekend too.

bet it bloody rains too !

Click to expand...

She'll be alright

The P38 will wait

She ain't going anywhere