300tdi

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
ProcrastinatorFraser

ProcrastinatorFraser

Active Member
Posts
771
Location
France
Some of you may be aware of the upcoming conversion (jamesmartin, Al203 :D)
The 300tdi from the donor vehicle is not at all knackerd yet, but has done 180,000 miles and i just thought i'd like to hear what you suggest i replace before i start using it in the 90?
I know the cam belt is due, so that will be replaced. What do you think i should get done on it?
A few extra details:
This engine has incredible amounts of trouble starting, which i think could be down to lift pump and injectors
And how do i determine which head gasket to use, because there are 3 types? (1 notch, 2 notch, 3 notch)
 
The difference in mine (at 176000) at starting before we stripped it and after is remarkable .. half a turn and it fires now, previously it'd always fire up, but needed GlowPlug for a while and a few turns.

Best thing we did was remove the pistons, hone the bores and replace with new piston rings. We also gave all the bottom end crank bearings a replacement too, but I think that has much less to do with the better starting than the obviously better compression of the new rings.

We bought a (cheap) honing tool and piston ring tool which both made the job immeasurably easier.

I replaced head gasket for the same as fitted .. but it was in good condition anyway .. at a pinch I'd have re-used it, but had already bought a new one!!
 
Paul D said:
The difference in mine (at 176000) at starting before we stripped it and after is remarkable .. half a turn and it fires now, previously it'd always fire up, but needed GlowPlug for a while and a few turns.

Best thing we did was remove the pistons, hone the bores and replace with new piston rings. We also gave all the bottom end crank bearings a replacement too, but I think that has much less to do with the better starting than the obviously better compression of the new rings.

We bought a (cheap) honing tool and piston ring tool which both made the job immeasurably easier.

I replaced head gasket for the same as fitted .. but it was in good condition anyway .. at a pinch I'd have re-used it, but had already bought a new one!!
Click to expand...
But how did you establish which head gasket to order? I would reuse mine if that was the case except i've got oil ****ing out of mine :D
 
ProcrastinatorFraser said:
Some of you may be aware of the upcoming conversion (jamesmartin, Al203 :D)
The 300tdi from the donor vehicle is not at all knackerd yet, but has done 180,000 miles and i just thought i'd like to hear what you suggest i replace before i start using it in the 90?
I know the cam belt is due, so that will be replaced. What do you think i should get done on it?
A few extra details:
This engine has incredible amounts of trouble starting, which i think could be down to lift pump and injectors
And how do i determine which head gasket to use, because there are 3 types? (1 notch, 2 notch, 3 notch)
Click to expand...
replace crank bearings and water pump, check bores, you either measure piston height or fit same hole as is fitted or if you skim head take that into account,
 
I've briefly set up a paddocks order:
big end shells , con rod bush x4 , piston rings , crankshaft bush, crankshaft rear oil seal + gasket, crank front oil seal, timing belt and tensioner, heater plugs, fuel lift pump, head gasket set, bottom end gasket set, front cover plate oil seal, main bearing shells, thrust washers
 
ProcrastinatorFraser said:
I've briefly set up a paddocks order:
big end shells , con rod bush x4 , piston rings , crankshaft bush, crankshaft rear oil seal + gasket, crank front oil seal, timing belt and tensioner, heater plugs, fuel lift pump, head gasket set, bottom end gasket set, front cover plate oil seal, main bearing shells, thrust washers
Click to expand...
i doubt youd need con rod bush and you could create issues ,check bores prior to changing rings, if they are good you might make it worse , if they are poor they you need to
 
jamesmartin said:
i doubt youd need con rod bush and you could create issues ,check bores prior to changing rings, if they are good you might make it worse , if they are poor they you need to
Click to expand...
I was only going to get con rod bushes in case there was slop in the piston, they were only cheap :p
So if the bores are good, use the old rings?
 
Paddocks will probably supply you with Britpart s**te - I'd go to Turners for engine bits, or buy genuine parts from elsewhere.

Personally I'd just do the head gasket (as you say it's leaking) and the cam belt and see how you get on. A compression test might be a useful exercise also.
 
Retroanaconda said:
Paddocks will probably supply you with Britpart s**te - I'd go to Turners for engine bits, or buy genuine parts from elsewhere.

Personally I'd just do the head gasket (as you say it's leaking) and the cam belt and see how you get on. A compression test might be a useful exercise also.
Click to expand...
I was considering not doing everything, but the engine has seen a fair few miles and i think they might be due.
 
I am in a similar position to you.
My plan is to replace the:

timing belt
front crank seal
rear crank seal
timing case seal
water pump
p gasket
t seals (rtv)
reseal sump (rtv)
rocker cover gasket
valve stem oil seals
valve stem caps
lift pump
clutch


I am not planning on removing the head, or big ends etc. Engine started well and seemed to run well whilst it was still in the donor disco. so I will see how it goes after doing the above jobs.......
engine has done approx 120k miles

Cheers

Rich
 
Retroanaconda said:
Paddocks will probably supply you with Britpart s**te - I'd go to Turners for engine bits, or buy genuine parts from elsewhere.

Personally I'd just do the head gasket (as you say it's leaking) and the cam belt and see how you get on. A compression test might be a useful exercise also.
Click to expand...

deffo, i got my bits from turners, they are helpful as well - i went in person and brought OEM parts etc
 
When you say "m.o.t." do you mean a French control technique or a UK mot?, there may well be difficulties in getting a CT if the engine numbers don't match those shown on Land Rovers certificate of conformity, if the French tester is on the ball it will possibly be refused.
Is the 90 originally a 300Tdi? if so it might get through, if not it still might, depends on the tester. My 90 (rhd ex UK) didn't have a chassis number - one of those that slipped through on a Friday afternoon - the tester said "when I take it back to him tomorrow he would expect to see a number just about here" quick trip to the local garage to borrow his stamps and job sorted. :) Sorry waffled on a bit there.
 
reiny said:
I thought that no different engines could be fitted in France.
Click to expand...
Well, there are 2 options:
Swap the engine and say bugger all, which will backfire if ever you get in to an accident, in which case if the person was seriously injured, YOU will be dishing out compo pretty much for the rest of your life.
or, you can send your car to a service called the DREAL, which is kinda like an m.o.t, but much more thorough and they will check your whole vehicle for any faults, like if the brakes are up to scratch for example. They will also ask you questions about your vehicle and so on. If your car passes, it will be given a new registration (carte grise) and all will be fine!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

dag019
300tdi conversion with LT77 box
Replies
0
Views
182
dag019
dag019
O
110 Sounds like a tram
Replies
5
Views
521
tottot
tottot
B
Autobox overheating
Replies
3
Views
514
Billando1
B
R
Ex military 90 soft top 1994 - 300TDi conversion
Replies
7
Views
844
ChristopherDailey
C
chazzskin24
300tdi cooling issues
Replies
5
Views
1K
currymunster
currymunster
Back
Top