300tdi immobiliser bypass to fuel stop solenoid

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J

jondisco300tdi

New Member
Posts
8
Location
birmingham
hi everyone, im having trouble with what im pretty sure is my spider playing up (randomly cuts out, wait a little while, starts up no probs) i am planning on removing the dash to sort it properly but am short on time at the mo and need the disco for work so have read you can do an easy bypass by running a wire from the back of the ignition to the fuel stop solenoid, so i have tried this and although there is power to the solenoid and it clicks when the wire is connected it will not start and just cranks over, if i connect the original wire (from spider) it starts no probs. am i missing something?? its cutting out at least once a day, normally more at the mo and ive been lucky where it has cut out so far but sooner or later its going to get dangerous! can anybody help with a short term solution other than a stall to stop solution untill ive got time to sort that effing spider out once and for all. many thanks in advance. (if youd prefer you can pm me the details)
 
I assume your 300tdi does have a spider to bypass, Then a spider bypass can be fitted in an hour and a half with time for a cuppa.
There are a few good write ups how to get to it.

Cheers
 
well i am assuming it does have one, all the symptoms ive read seem to fit this as the problem. can it really be got to in an hour? seems like a pig of a job to remove and refit the dash?
 
The spider looks after two functions, to enable cranking and starting and the fuel supply, I assume the cranking part is okay, so the fuel stop requires a permanent 12v to open it during cranking and while the engine is running, therefore try a temporary supply from the battery to the fuel stop solenoid and crank the engine which should start and run.
If okay install a permanent supply from the ignition switch main wiring where they enter the fuse board, I'm nowhere near my disco at the moment but there's only three wires iirc, white, yellow and red/ white and one is live while in position 2 and cranking.
It's possible the yellow wire as I had to do a similar thing a few years ago but if not yellow try one of the others.

There's no need to go any where near the spider behind the dash, just install direct feeds u, wouldn't get me pulling my dash apart.
 
discool said:
The spider looks after two functions, to enable cranking and starting and the fuel supply, I assume the cranking part is okay, so the fuel stop requires a permanent 12v to open it during cranking and while the engine is running, therefore try a temporary supply from the battery to the fuel stop solenoid and crank the engine which should start and run.
If okay install a permanent supply from the ignition switch main wiring where they enter the fuse board, I'm nowhere near my disco at the moment but there's only three wires iirc, white, yellow and red/ white and one is live while in position 2 and cranking.
It's possible the yellow wire as I had to do a similar thing a few years ago but if not yellow try one of the others.

There's no need to go any where near the spider behind the dash, just install direct feeds u, wouldn't get me pulling my dash apart.
Click to expand...

i really dont want to take the dash apart, im sure ill end up just breaking all the little plastic tabs etc! thats why i connected a wire from the the white cable at the rear of ignition barrel (i believe the red/white is for a direct feed to starter solenoid?) direct to the fuel solenoid. whats puzzling me is that its there is definitely power, it sparks and clicks the fuel solenoid but does nothing but crank over when i try and start her.
 
think ill try a direct feed from the battery and see what happens, any idea if i could make it a permanent bodge with a switch inside the the cab, would it be safe as in not burning the wire out or something?
 
discool said:
The spider looks after two functions, to enable cranking and starting and the fuel supply, I assume the cranking part is okay, so the fuel stop requires a permanent 12v to open it during cranking and while the engine is running, therefore try a temporary supply from the battery to the fuel stop solenoid and crank the engine which should start and run.
If okay install a permanent supply from the ignition switch main wiring where they enter the fuse board, I'm nowhere near my disco at the moment but there's only three wires iirc, white, yellow and red/ white and one is live while in position 2 and cranking.
It's possible the yellow wire as I had to do a similar thing a few years ago but if not yellow try one of the others.

There's no need to go any where near the spider behind the dash, just install direct feeds u, wouldn't get me pulling my dash apart.
Click to expand...
discool thankyou!! think ive just sorted it, connected it to the yellow and she fired up!! hopefully thatll save me ripping out the flipping dash and stop me breaking down in the middle of a junction and being killed, you may have just saved my life!
 
Good for you. I don't know why the dash removal is still promoted and its very 'old school' when all you have to do is install a direct switched feed to the immobilised item.
So you you can bodge with an additional switch but all U need to do now is install the direct feed from the yellow at the fuse board, so through the fire wall with a single wire then into small diameter flexable conduit to the fuel stop following and cable tied to the existing wiring loom so it then looks original, and then reterminate... job done.
 
Last edited:
youre dead right, when this does the same thing but without all the hassle. and by connecting it to the yellow wire it doesnt need a switch(unless for a bit of extra security) it turns on and off with the ignition. all to do now is enjoy her again and wait for the next issue!! thanks again
 
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