300tdi defender non start no crank main beam light constantly on ignition

Hi guys I have little wiring fault

300tdi defender now non starting no cranking at all

Key fob is working can arm and disarm
Main beam lights on with ignition ( even tho ther not switched on )
Relay in fuse box clicks as it should when cranked

I believe ther to be a wiring fault linked I with the starting system and the headlights causing it to non start

Any one had a similar fault they can point me in the right direction

Thanks in advance

Key fob? Has it got an alarm/immobiliser??
Your non starting issue is probably that.

Any further info??

Daz

check fuses 10 & 20, took them out on mine and got no cranking (summat to do with the immobiliser)

Yes has fob imobiliser is working

Soon as ignition is put on all normL lights are ther, but the main been is also uluminated and the side lights are on constant and if u flSh the main beam it makes the side lights and dash high been light brighter :s

I have a 300tdi and some times it will not start no cranking nothing. Turning key lights up dash then turn again to start and nothing all lights go out. Tried several times no luck. Then leave it a bit and it starts. Then later same again no cranking nothing. Any help appreciated.

OLDUN said:

I have a 300tdi and some times it will not start no cranking nothing. Turning key lights up dash then turn again to start and nothing all lights go out. Tried several times no luck. Then leave it a bit and it starts. Then later same again no cranking nothing. Any help appreciated.

Click to expand...

Possibly the 'Spider' immobiliser unit, if you have one fitted....

The one in mine is playing around, there is a bypass link available, or make the bypass yourself....better still, resolder the dry joints inside!!

T

Saint.V8 said:

Possibly the 'Spider' immobiliser unit, if you have one fitted....

The one in mine is playing around, there is a bypass link available, or make the bypass yourself....better still, resolder the dry joints inside!!

Click to expand...

Thanks for reply - pretty certain I don't have an immobiliser just a cut off switch by the passenger footwell that works ok. This all happened after garage rewired behind the main fuse box as the wires nearer the passenger side had corroded - (I was told it was due to salt - didn't realise my salt pot on the passenger dash would cause this - though it has been there six years). Does this help to determine the fault.

See if the feed to the stop solenoid goes to 12v with the ignition.

If it does not, then think about an imobaliser issue etc.

If it goes high, then its not an imobaliser issue (unless the imobaliser cuts the injection pump independently of the starter, and only half of the spider unit is bust)

But, yeah, quick multimeter job on the injection pump solenoid might give some insight?

julianf said:

See if the feed to the stop solenoid goes to 12v with the ignition.

If it does not, then think about an imobaliser issue etc.

If it goes high, then its not an imobaliser issue (unless the imobaliser cuts the injection pump independently of the starter, and only half of the spider unit is bust)

But, yeah, quick multimeter job on the injection pump solenoid might give some insight?

Click to expand...

Yes the immobiliser is in two halves, one removes the supply to the stop solenoid and the other isolates the starter so you can have either (or both) issues

haza88 said:

Hi guys I have little wiring fault

300tdi defender now non starting no cranking at all

Key fob is working can arm and disarm
Main beam lights on with ignition ( even tho ther not switched on )
Relay in fuse box clicks as it should when cranked

I believe ther to be a wiring fault linked I with the starting system and the headlights causing it to non start

Any one had a similar fault they can point me in the right direction

Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

They are probably related, but just in case they are not, go into the battery compartment, on the front of the seat box you will see a black box about 4 inches square this is the immobiliser unit. Give it a fairly robust whack with a rubber mallet or similar and then try starting it (do it a couple of times if no luck) if you have dry joints in the unit the jolt sometimes fixes it temporarily. If it then starts I'll tell you how to fix it, if it doesn't start try pulling the thin lead off the starter and attach a meter or bulb to the lead, try cranking the engine, if the meter reads or the bulb lights up it looks like you have a duff starter. Lights may be a separate issue.

OLDUN said:

T

Thanks for reply - pretty certain I don't have an immobiliser just a cut off switch by the passenger footwell that works ok. This all happened after garage rewired behind the main fuse box as the wires nearer the passenger side had corroded - (I was told it was due to salt - didn't realise my salt pot on the passenger dash would cause this - though it has been there six years). Does this help to determine the fault.

Click to expand...

My money is on a battery contact near where they did the rewire. Take the fuse panel cover off, loosen the fuse holders, try moving them when trying to start etc.

zeaphod said:

My money is on a battery contact near where they did the rewire. Take the fuse panel cover off, loosen the fuse holders, try moving them when trying to start etc.

Click to expand...

Thanks will do that - but just thinking now it might just be the cable at the battery with not a sufficient connection with the extra power needed to start the vehicle - as they would have disarmed the battery to do the electrical work - will check this also.