300tdi coolant bleed points

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

alexc2701

Active Member
Posts
680
Location
Nottingham
Hi guys

Just about to put my 300tdi coolant system back together, had all new pipes new rad and new inter cooler. Was thinking of tapping the top of rad m6 for a bleed point when filling? Since I’m using a tdci bulkhead my heater supply pipes are quite high up too so I brought some brass 90 deg angles. I was also thinking of tapping these if they look thick enough when they arrive for a high bleed point similar to the plastic tdci ones.

Basically wondered if anyone knew if the top of rad thickness would be enough to tap without threading it or if it would need a brazed nut instead?

Cheers
 
Last edited:
So why do you need to bleed your intercooler?

300tdi rad has a bleed fitting on the top of it as well as one on the thermostat housing.

Cheers
I don’t I just explained it badly!
The alloy one I got has the bleed pipe fitting but I’ve been told they’re hard to get bled up so this seemed like an easy solution if the metal is thick enough to tap
 
Well if you follow the destrutions not sure why you should have major issues bleeding it.

I would recommend changing the plastic bleed points for brass ones, in fact you can get houshold radiator fitting that have small bleed points on them .

Cheers
 
Well if you follow the destrutions not sure why you should have major issues bleeding it.

I would recommend changing the plastic bleed points for brass ones, in fact you can get houshold radiator fitting that have small bleed points on them .

Cheers
Got brass replacement for the thermostat housing but
Couldn’t find any 16mm angles with a bleed. So got the brass ones hoping be able to tap
Does the rad bleed up relatively easily through thermostat then? If so I won’t bother tapping it, just thought if it is a pig mayaswel fix it now
Top heater pipe prob be awkward since ends up virtually same height as the header
 
Got brass replacement for the thermostat housing but
Couldn’t find any 16mm angles with a bleed. So got the brass ones hoping be able to tap
Does the rad bleed up relatively easily through thermostat then? If so I won’t bother tapping it, just thought if it is a pig mayaswel fix it now

OK, I take it you are not using a std 300rad?

Cheers
 

Attachments

  • 4F5368D5-D585-4F98-8348-36B72E1BE86C.png
    4F5368D5-D585-4F98-8348-36B72E1BE86C.png
    142.7 KB · Views: 225
Take it out of the box and look at it. Have you read the manual for bleeding the system?

Cheers
Yeah it keeps quoting a second bleed plug but my old one didn’t have one
Haven’t had chance to check the new one yet don’t get delivered to mine
 
Not allisport
If it does though be a pleasant surprise! I just assumed be same as old one which didn’t have!

Where did you buy the rad from, Ive just put all mine back together after converting it from auto to manual
I put a hose onto the metal pipe on the rocker cover to fill the heater then reconnected the pipe & left the
plugs out & expansion tank cap off then started the engine once the water started to flow out I put the plugs
in & it worked first time :)
 
Where did you buy the rad from, Ive just put all mine back together after converting it from auto to manual
I put a hose onto the metal pipe on the rocker cover to fill the heater then reconnected the pipe & left the
plugs out & expansion tank cap off then started the engine once the water started to flow out I put the plugs
in & it worked first time :)

Uk performance

That’s a good idea, I might try that with mine with the heater being so high

Thanks for your help. Your setup looks fab too!
I was tempted by one of those alloy header tanks too since my plastic one was leaking but they were quite expensive! Wasn’t sure if it would fit the same with all the bits that have been moved
 
What have you done for fixing your rad frame? Mine was missing all the fixings looks like it was just floating originally lol
 
Back
Top