300Tdi auto problem

Following recent head gasket replacement the car will only accelerate to 20-30 mph before it revs freely (much like slipping clutch on a manual) while making a whirring fan-like noise. It has a small leak from gearbox and I have topped up with atf dexron 2 but no improvement. Also revs freely if I try & accelerate anything beyond bare minimum from standstill.
It drove ok for 3 miles straight after gasket replacement but went very suddenly at about 50mph.

I'm not very familiar with autos - any ideas

Have you checked that your kickdown cable is operating correctly, not jammed or come adrift

No - I'll check that out thanks.

But not tonite - I've just settled in front of the fire with a beer

I suggest you do NOT drive the car any more until you sort this out.

It sounds like it MIGHT be very low on fluid. Are you SURE you are checking the level EXACTLY as the manual says? You MUST do it right, or the fluid level may be way wrong.

Next is to adjust the brake bands if you dare have a go at it.

But it doesn't sound good.

CharlesY

It's been off the road since it's journey home from getting the head gasket done.
I have been advised of 2 different ways to check the level - which is the official line?
1. Engine cold but running & check while in neutral
2. Engine cold, running. Put into drive then back to park to check

In neutral level at top mark, in park it's on low mark.

Another thought; when head gasket had been done the guy said " I had to rev the ar*e off it for ages to get the heater warm". Presumably he did this in neutral. While trawling the interweb today I found a lot of references to ZF boxes self destructing when subjected to this sort of treatment. Is this a likely cause??

Does anyone know which is correct for checking the auto box oil level - neutral or drive?? I have found reference to both and the levels show differently - if a bit too much on the brown side

Cheers

The correct method is
Start engine , then handbrake on , foot on brake, engine at idle, run through all gears and finish in park . Leave engine idling , remove dipstick, wipe reinsert and then withdraw. This will give the reading, it will vary according to how hot gearbox oil is. There are usually marks for level with eng hot and with cold engine HTSH

Thanks for that. Unfortunately the level seems to be ok - with engine both cold and hot.
Guess that means a knackered gearbox - might be one bill too many.

Repairs have averaged 100 quid a month since i got it & thats before this one!!!!!!!

lagpunktortoni said:

Thanks for that. Unfortunately the level seems to be ok - with engine both cold and hot.
Guess that means a knackered gearbox - might be one bill too many.

Repairs have averaged 100 quid a month since i got it & thats before this one!!!!!!!

Click to expand...

Your next test is a gearbox STALL SPEED TEST.

This involves having the car in D, engine running, foot hard on the BRAKE to make sure the car does NOT move, then deck the throttle to the floor.
It is wise to do this pointing the car out into a large open space.


The revs will rise to one of three levels which are

BELOW, ON, or ABOVE the correct stall speed.

If it is ON the correct speed, this isn't the problem

If it is ABOVE the stall speed STOP THE TEST immediately as the gearbox bands or clutches are slipping. Service the GB. You might get away with adjusting the brake bands, which in MOST autos is done from the OUTSIDE in a few minutes.

If it is BELOW the correct speed by say 600 - 800 rpm then it's a safe bet the TORQUE CONVERTER has a fault inside which is that the STATOR is slipping. If this is established fit a replacement torque converter.

Do not run stall tests for more than TEN SECONDS at a time as the GB and the GB oil gets very hot.

CharlesY