As you look at the engine from the front of the car, its on the left hand side, hidden under the exhaust manifold, and normally a couple of heat sheilds.
Its held on with two alen bolts that are nie on impossible to get an allen socket into and find room to attache anything to twist them, without a train of socket extensions, the length of the engine putting the wrench infront of the timing cover!
THEN the socket will round out the allen screw, becouse its not in the head far enough, becouse its full of crud, AND with such a long shaft on the socket it'll be waggling all over the place..... and of course, since you couldn't get in there with the wrench, you ENT going to get in there with drill or angle grinder......
However, those warnings taken on board, jobs pretty easy;
First dissconect battery
Secondremove lucar connection from ignition key to the solenoid
Third remove thick battery leads from battery and loom off the solenoid, and lever out of the way.
You will probably have to remocve shrouds from exhaust to get acess for this, and they tend to be a bit of a bludger..... plus gas and an over night soak highly reccomended.
So, onto the starter bolts;
First of all, find suitable allen socket' 8mm hex from memory.
Next, using something small and pointy like an old screw, poke as much crud out of the hex bolt as you can before you begin.
Then, put the allen socket into the screw, and tap it in as far as you can with a light hammer.
Now for the 'inside trick'
Use an 'impact driver' on the alen socket to drive the socket further into the hex head, and apply some undoing force to shake it loose BEFORE you try and twist it out.
With a bit of luck, you may loosen it off enough to be able to twist it the rest of teh way out using the impact driver as a screw driver....
If not you'll have to use a chain of socket extensions on the allen socket to get the wrench somewhere twistable.....
THEN with a lot of grunting, and preferably tow of you, one to grunt on the wrench and one to hold the extensions steady, you can start unwinding the screw.....
It Will come out evenutally......
Then you can do the othe one.... the same way
Two types of starter, one is larger than the other; earlier motors and disco's got the bigger one, and you probably have that one..... becouse its a swine to get out from between teh chassis and sump...... lots of wiggling and wriggling until it comes free.... usually as you are wriggling into a new possition to get a better angle at it, touch it and it drops on your head!
But once out, you can fit a replacement........ by the reverse of removal, as they say!
New V8 starter is about £100, I think for the larger version, about £80 for a 'Bendix' which is smaller, curtecy of a high speed motor and planatry reduction gear.... its actually the better starter and easier to fit, so whatever you took off the 'logical' replacement..... its CHEAPER!
The old one COULD be reconditioned; plenty advicate DIY overhaul with new brishes, but probably needs new bushes too, and as like as not the rotor coild rewound and THA Tis not a DIY job, and given to a specialist no cheaper than buying a Bendix replacement......
So, apart fron tools noted, you need time, patience, a bit of dexterity and the ability to follow the instructions in the repair overhaul manual, and a bit of nouse not to cock-it up in the trying.
By Land Rover Standards, a pretty typical job, fairly straight forward and simple in theory, but a bit of a bludger ion practice, but eminantly DIYable..... if you know what you are looking at / for......
