3.5 v8 EFI won’t start when warm

I’ve looked at so many articles trying to work out why my engine will not start when it’s warm.

I’ve had my Land Rover off the road for a few years it’s only been started a hand full of times and I didn’t have this problem when I parked it up.

When I start from cold it starts after few turns it’s a little lumpy for a few seconds but then settle’s down and is fine
it will carry on running with no issues If I turn it off and try starting it will not fire up unless I give it a squirt of easy start then it starts a Littel lumpy and then settles down things I’ve checked so far
Fuel pump (new)
Fuel filter (new)
Dizzy cap (new)
Rotary arm (new)
Coil tested
Thermotime switch (tested)
Temperature switch (tested)
Overrun valve (tried with it bypassed and plugged in )
Cold start injector (disconnected and connected)
I’ve now run out of ideas any help / advice would be appreciated

Paul

Easy-start should be the very last resort .. awful stuff.

Try disconnecting the cold start injector (just remove the wire & tuck it where it can't touch anything metallic)
I've owned three 3.5 efi's & never have mine connected, even in an average UK winter.

Cheers Norseman
I’ve tried that

Leave the cold start injector disconnected.
Old fuel drained & refilled with new?
'Coil tested'. How?
New rotor arm. Moulded in metal strip or riveted on?
If you rotate the rotor arm by hand until it stops & then let go does it go smartly back to its original position?
Good strong spark?
When it won't restart are the plugs wet or dry?

Ratae
The tank was on the red I put 20l of new in when I started playing with it again

I tested the coil with a multimeter and was getting 1.2 ohm’s

I will check the rotary arm to check what style it is but I had the problem before I change the cap and arm.
I do have a spark when it’s warm I wouldn’t say it’s a strong spark but I put this down to poor earthing sitting on the engine ( I will recheck this)
Wet or dry plugs when it’s warm (I feel a bit of a dick for not checking this) I’ll check and get back to you

thank you for your reply it’s much appreciated
Paul

1mill said:

Cheers Norseman
I’ve tried that

Click to expand...

Sorry, I missed that on your 'checked' list

norseman said:

Sorry, I missed that on your 'checked' list

Click to expand...

No mate I added it after you mentioned it

Ignition amplifier on the side of the dizzy or under the coil on the wing?
The dizzy mount ones have a reputation for heat failure & LR sold a remote kit to mount them away from the dizzy.
There are a series of tests in the factory workshop manual which I've tried to find online but I'm struggling ATM. If you have the flapper AFM then you need the paper version as the later RAVE CD one doesn't cover the flappers.

ETA. Here. Don't be tempted to click on any of the pop-ups. I have no idea what the consequences might be! Clicking on the 'NEXT PAGE' and 'PREVIOUS PAGE' at the bottom right is fine & will do what it says.
If it all disappears under an avalanche of pop-ups close it & open it again.
Land Rover Workshop Manuals > Range Rover Classic > 86 - ELECTRICAL > FAULT DIAGNOSIS > LUCAS CONSTANT ENERGY IGNITION SYSTEM - V8i (workshop-manuals.com)

1mill said:

No mate I added it after you mentioned it

Click to expand...

So I'm not losing it after all