24v/12v Landrover 110 CSW (long!)

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>
>
> Option 4: change the motor and glowplug in the heater unit for 12V items.


And the controller, and the fuel pump, and the relays...........

Any cost saving now totally spent on new bits.


 

> Prior to the recent thread I had
> been exploring diesel heaters and they
> seemed an ideal solution.
> The problem was that at this time of year
> the 12v versions were going for quite
> a premium. So I bought a 24v
> version from eBay. (Just waiting for it to arrive).
>

Just out of interest, how much did you pay for it?
The ones I've seen on Ebay went for around £300-350, and you can buy them
new for not much more than £400.



 

SimonJ wrote:
> >

> Just out of interest, how much did you pay for it?
> The ones I've seen on Ebay went for around £300-350, and you can buy them
> new for not much more than £400.


I paid £235 for a D1LC. This one inlcudes a thermostat and timer. If
the car gets sufficiently warm the unit will switch off "totally" and
restart when the temperature drops below the set limit.

I was happy with that price.

There is a 12v version on eBay at the moment for £320 (11 hours to
run).

The cheapest (new one) and that is a lower heat rating, is around £700
pounds this was at http://www.rthursby.co.uk/ who also seems to do a
full range of spare parts (but I have no experience of them - yet!)

Cheers

Peter

 
Tom Woods <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>> I used to put insulating tape on the outside to seal 'em in cold
>> weather.

>
> Using the same logic i was considering duct taping round my doors and
> then climbing in and out through the back of the landy...


Get your grinder out and fit 90 seals... well worth it!

Lee D


 
On Sat, 3 Dec 2005 15:57:34 -0000, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Tom Woods <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>>> I used to put insulating tape on the outside to seal 'em in cold
>>> weather.

>>
>> Using the same logic i was considering duct taping round my doors and
>> then climbing in and out through the back of the landy...

>
>Get your grinder out and fit 90 seals... well worth it!


I dont mind the grinding but those seals are expensive :(

 
On or around Sat, 03 Dec 2005 18:08:59 +0000, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>On Sat, 3 Dec 2005 15:57:34 -0000, "Lee_D"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Tom Woods <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>>>> I used to put insulating tape on the outside to seal 'em in cold
>>>> weather.
>>>
>>> Using the same logic i was considering duct taping round my doors and
>>> then climbing in and out through the back of the landy...

>>
>>Get your grinder out and fit 90 seals... well worth it!

>
>I dont mind the grinding but those seals are expensive :(


fitted spare door seal from scrap ford sierra to the series III. Grinder,
like they said, with a thin cutting disc. The edge of the door frame looks
like this:
_
|
|
| <-- series-type rubber riveted here
|
|___
|
|

and to fit the kind which grips the edge as fitted to most cars, which has a
hollow soft rubberoid tube attached to a bit of strange steel-reinforced
bendy stuff, you need it to look like this:

|
|
|___
|
|

So you're looking to cut off about 1/4" , including the outer lip bit and
part of the flat bit.

works a treat.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"For millions of years, mankind lived just like the animals. Then
something happened which unleashed the power of our imagination -
we learned to talk." Pink Floyd (1994)
 
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