24v/12v Landrover 110 CSW (long!)

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
P

puffernutter

Guest
I have an interesting problem (all of my own making!)

To give a bit of background. In this weather my defender 110 CSW (19J
engine) struggles to heat the cabin. When travelling down a motorway
it just about keeps up, when down on the A and minor roads, you just
get colder and colder! In a few months time I will also be having dogs
sleeping in the back of the car through the night, so I wanted a way of
keeping the car warm separate (or additional to) the engine.

Prior to the recent thread I had been exploring diesel heaters and they
seemed an ideal solution. The problem was that at this time of year
the 12v versions were going for quite a premium. So I bought a 24v
version from eBay. (Just waiting for it to arrive).

This was bought deliberately (it was about £140 cheaper than the
equivalent 12v version!) and I now need to see how to provide the 24v
in the car for the diesel heater (in fact, providing it is easy, that's
just a second battery, keeping that second battery charged is the more
interesting problem!)

I think there are three options and there are pros and cons to all. I
would appreciate your views on the various options and whether any of
you have a similar problem and how you have solved it.

Firstly the battery drain is not huge. Start up is the worst at 11.25A
(due to heating the glowplug I suspect), the ongoing power for the fan
then drives the consumption which is quoted at 1.25A for boost and only
0.4A when running at low/medium power. This is of course at 24v.

So options:

Option 1 -

Weekly charge of second battery. Probably the simplest option and just
needs to be a good habit to get into. Remove the second battery once a
week and charge it overnight. With the drains quoted above, even
leaving the heater on all night shouldn't have a major drain on that
battery. The downside is the hassle of removing the battery once a
week. (This could be done through an isolation switch and an external
socket and may be the way that I go)

Option 2 -
Fit a 24v alternator (is one done for the 19J?) and charge both
batteries at once. Slightly more complicated and there will be a need
to uprate the charging light bulb to 24v. Also the batteries, even if
across the 24v will never charge equally. Remainder of car stays at
12v. Are there any issues I've missed?

Option 3 -
Fit a clever change over circuit that allows the 12v alternator to
alternately charge each battery. The lions share of the charge should
go on the "car" battery with occasional time for the supplementary
battery. For example I would expect that after initial starting there
is a minimum of 20 mins charging the main battery and then say and
uneven cycle of say 2 mins on the supplemantary batteyr and 6 minutes
on the main battery.

Possible problems as it is far more complicated and the risk of stray
(high current!) paths.

OK, I could have spent more and saved all this hassle, but what the
heck, this is an interesting challenge.

So any thoughts, comments, insults :)

Cheers

Peter

1990 110 CSW (Reggie the Veggie)
1959 Farina A40
1964 Rover P4 110
1974 Hillman Imp

 

"puffernutter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I have an interesting problem (all of my own making!)

To give a bit of background. In this weather my defender 110 CSW (19J
engine) struggles to heat the cabin. When travelling down a motorway
it just about keeps up, when down on the A and minor roads, you just
get colder and colder! In a few months time I will also be having dogs
sleeping in the back of the car through the night, so I wanted a way of
keeping the car warm separate (or additional to) the engine.

Prior to the recent thread I had been exploring diesel heaters and they
seemed an ideal solution. The problem was that at this time of year
the 12v versions were going for quite a premium. So I bought a 24v
version from eBay. (Just waiting for it to arrive).

This was bought deliberately (it was about £140 cheaper than the
equivalent 12v version!) and I now need to see how to provide the 24v
in the car for the diesel heater (in fact, providing it is easy, that's
just a second battery, keeping that second battery charged is the more
interesting problem!)

I think there are three options and there are pros and cons to all. I
would appreciate your views on the various options and whether any of
you have a similar problem and how you have solved it.

Firstly the battery drain is not huge. Start up is the worst at 11.25A
(due to heating the glowplug I suspect), the ongoing power for the fan
then drives the consumption which is quoted at 1.25A for boost and only
0.4A when running at low/medium power. This is of course at 24v.

So options:

Option 1 -

Weekly charge of second battery. Probably the simplest option and just
needs to be a good habit to get into. Remove the second battery once a
week and charge it overnight. With the drains quoted above, even
leaving the heater on all night shouldn't have a major drain on that
battery. The downside is the hassle of removing the battery once a
week. (This could be done through an isolation switch and an external
socket and may be the way that I go)

Option 2 -
Fit a 24v alternator (is one done for the 19J?) and charge both
batteries at once. Slightly more complicated and there will be a need
to uprate the charging light bulb to 24v. Also the batteries, even if
across the 24v will never charge equally. Remainder of car stays at
12v. Are there any issues I've missed?

Option 3 -
Fit a clever change over circuit that allows the 12v alternator to
alternately charge each battery. The lions share of the charge should
go on the "car" battery with occasional time for the supplementary
battery. For example I would expect that after initial starting there
is a minimum of 20 mins charging the main battery and then say and
uneven cycle of say 2 mins on the supplemantary batteyr and 6 minutes
on the main battery.

Possible problems as it is far more complicated and the risk of stray
(high current!) paths.

OK, I could have spent more and saved all this hassle, but what the
heck, this is an interesting challenge.

So any thoughts, comments, insults :)

Cheers

Peter

Option 1. fit fork lift charging connector to second battery, isolated from
vehicle earth.

Option 2. fit small additional 24v alternator, make engine bracket for it
and leave it running all the time, no probs, just gove it a trigger feed to
the field terminal via a relay controlled by the ignition, so that the 12v
ignition switches the 24v field feed. Use 2 of the smallest 12v batteries
you can find, in series, and have it as a standalone system.

Option 3. too much hassle due to common grounding via the alternator body

Option 4. clever switchgear to put your second battery in parallel when the
engine is running, and series when stopped. 12v charging, 24v feed for your
heater.

Option 5. stop being a skinflint and get a 12v heater! ;-)

Badger.


 
In message <[email protected]>
"puffernutter" <[email protected]> wrote:

> I have an interesting problem (all of my own making!)
>
> To give a bit of background. In this weather my defender 110 CSW (19J
> engine) struggles to heat the cabin. When travelling down a motorway
> it just about keeps up, when down on the A and minor roads, you just
> get colder and colder! In a few months time I will also be having dogs
> sleeping in the back of the car through the night, so I wanted a way of
> keeping the car warm separate (or additional to) the engine.
>
> Prior to the recent thread I had been exploring diesel heaters and they
> seemed an ideal solution. The problem was that at this time of year
> the 12v versions were going for quite a premium. So I bought a 24v
> version from eBay. (Just waiting for it to arrive).
>
> This was bought deliberately (it was about £140 cheaper than the
> equivalent 12v version!) and I now need to see how to provide the 24v
> in the car for the diesel heater (in fact, providing it is easy, that's
> just a second battery, keeping that second battery charged is the more
> interesting problem!)
>
> I think there are three options and there are pros and cons to all. I
> would appreciate your views on the various options and whether any of
> you have a similar problem and how you have solved it.
>
> Firstly the battery drain is not huge. Start up is the worst at 11.25A
> (due to heating the glowplug I suspect), the ongoing power for the fan
> then drives the consumption which is quoted at 1.25A for boost and only
> 0.4A when running at low/medium power. This is of course at 24v.
>
> So options:
>
> Option 1 -
>
> Weekly charge of second battery. Probably the simplest option and just
> needs to be a good habit to get into. Remove the second battery once a
> week and charge it overnight. With the drains quoted above, even
> leaving the heater on all night shouldn't have a major drain on that
> battery. The downside is the hassle of removing the battery once a
> week. (This could be done through an isolation switch and an external
> socket and may be the way that I go)
>
> Option 2 -
> Fit a 24v alternator (is one done for the 19J?) and charge both
> batteries at once. Slightly more complicated and there will be a need
> to uprate the charging light bulb to 24v. Also the batteries, even if
> across the 24v will never charge equally. Remainder of car stays at
> 12v. Are there any issues I've missed?
>
> Option 3 -
> Fit a clever change over circuit that allows the 12v alternator to
> alternately charge each battery. The lions share of the charge should
> go on the "car" battery with occasional time for the supplementary
> battery. For example I would expect that after initial starting there
> is a minimum of 20 mins charging the main battery and then say and
> uneven cycle of say 2 mins on the supplemantary batteyr and 6 minutes
> on the main battery.
>
> Possible problems as it is far more complicated and the risk of stray
> (high current!) paths.
>
> OK, I could have spent more and saved all this hassle, but what the
> heck, this is an interesting challenge.
>
> So any thoughts, comments, insults :)
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter
>
> 1990 110 CSW (Reggie the Veggie)
> 1959 Farina A40
> 1964 Rover P4 110
> 1974 Hillman Imp
>


Sounds like you need a 12/24V inverter - RS etc will have such things
(don't know about Maplin). However, your dealing with fairly high
currents, which may make thing expensive. Most trucks have a 12V
outlet on their 24V systems these days, so a truck accessory place
may also be worth talking to, even if just to get the "gen".

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
On 28 Nov 2005 01:25:26 -0800, "puffernutter"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>The problem was that at this time of year
>the 12v versions were going for quite a premium. So I bought a 24v
>version from eBay. (Just waiting for it to arrive).


I've just been doing exactly the same thing as you. I was watching the
24v heaters on ebay and just planning my thread for here asking how to
make it work on 12v! :)
>

 
In article <[email protected]>, Badger
<[email protected]> writes

>Option 5. stop being a skinflint and get a 12v heater! ;-)


Option 6: investigate which parts of the heater are 24V and replace them
with the 12V equivalents, if necessary sourced from the manufacturer.

Far easier than all the rest and probably cheaper in the long run.


Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/
 

SpamTrapSeeSig wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, Badger
> <[email protected]> writes
>
> >Option 5. stop being a skinflint and get a 12v heater! ;-)

>
> Option 6: investigate which parts of the heater are 24V and replace them
> with the 12V equivalents, if necessary sourced from the manufacturer.
>
> Far easier than all the rest and probably cheaper in the long run.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Simonm.
>
> --
> simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
> SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
> EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
> GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/


I've investigated that (or in fact others have before me) and it is
prohibitively expensive.

Cheers

Peter

 

beamendsltd wrote:
> In message <[email protected]>
> "puffernutter" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I have an interesting problem (all of my own making!)


<<big snip>>
>
> Sounds like you need a 12/24V inverter - RS etc will have such things
> (don't know about Maplin). However, your dealing with fairly high
> currents, which may make thing expensive. Most trucks have a 12V
> outlet on their 24V systems these days, so a truck accessory place
> may also be worth talking to, even if just to get the "gen".
> Richard
> --

None of that size done by RS, whilst there are lots of 24/12
convertors, I have found no 12/24 convertors!)

I think that the best option is going be a second lead acid battery and
a regime of weekly overnight charging.

Cheers

Peter




> www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
> Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
> Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
> Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay


 
On or around 28 Nov 2005 01:25:26 -0800, "puffernutter"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>Option 2 -
>Fit a 24v alternator (is one done for the 19J?) and charge both
>batteries at once. Slightly more complicated and there will be a need
>to uprate the charging light bulb to 24v. Also the batteries, even if
>across the 24v will never charge equally. Remainder of car stays at
>12v. Are there any issues I've missed?


Option 2A: fit 24V bulbs along with the 24V alternator, and make it all 24V.
optionally leave the starter at 12V and feed it with 24V, which should make
it start very nicely :)

[before everyone has a go... the rally boys commonly used to do this - I
daresay it's worth having a spare starter motor to hand.]

actually, it's not that easy - you have other stuff to convert as well, so
probably not worth it.


Option 4: change the motor and glowplug in the heater unit for 12V items.
 
Easy answer - once or twice a week swap the batteries over.
TonyB


 
On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 10:01:48 +0000 (UTC), Badger wrote:

> Option 4. clever switchgear to put your second battery in parallel
> when the engine is running, and series when stopped. 12v charging,
> 24v feed for your heater.


I like that one. <wanders off for a think>...

Yep, should be possible, need a beefy break before make DPCO 12v
relay. Fixed pitch font from now please:


+24v ----------------o
\
o------+
|
+12v ----+-------+---o |
| | |
| | 12v Aux
12v Main | Battery
Battery +---o |
| \ |
| o------+
|
0v------+-----------o

Relay shown unenergised. Relay is energised when engine is running.
Pickup the switched auxillary power for a caravan? From the white/grey
socket not the ordinary balck towing one.

Disadvantage, if the engine is running you can't run the heater but if
you add a manual switch to the relay to turn it off you can...

Note: "Back of a fag packet" thinking thus not fully thought out
regards failure modes etc...

--
Cheers [email protected]
Dave. pam is missing e-mail



 
TonyB wrote:
> Easy answer - once or twice a week swap the batteries over.
> TonyB


I have now spoken to Espar (who make the D1LC air heater) and confirmed
that the chassis of the heater is isolated from the wiring to the
heater components. This removes any nasty shorts across the exisiting
battery!

I think that there is a way of connecting the alternator through a DPDT
switch and with one diode, it should be possible to switch between
which battery is charged. (If anyone is really interested have a look
at http://www.lmandwr.co.uk/lr_battery/battery.jpg - I struggle with
ASCII drawings!)

The other alternative is the weekly (or less or more frequent as
necessary) charge. Again, I don't think that any thing special (e.g
switching or isolation) is required. The charger is simply placed
between the +12 and +24 connections.

The only "extra" item I reckon I'll fit is a fuse between the "+" and
"-" of the two batteries. It won't need to be that great (15A max) and
it may give some protection should a short occur in the heater and
chassis.

The last suggestion about changing batteries over is by far the
cheapest, but probably involves more hassle than the others, so I shall
go for one of the two options above.

So thanks for all the suggestions. (With regard to the one about
buying a 12v heater, I am watching one on eBay, identical to mine
except the voltage. It is now £50 more than mine and 3 days to go!)
I reckon this additional hassle is worth it.

Cheers

Peter

 
On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 14:21:49 +0000, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Option 4: change the motor and glowplug in the heater unit for 12V items.


Can you get spares like this for the eber heaters?

I presume that it has a fuel pump and/or a metering pump too which
might have to be replaced. Along with the mean looking control
unit/relay thing that they have (if theyre like the 101 petrol ones)
 
Tom Woods wrote:
> On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 14:21:49 +0000, Austin Shackles
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Option 4: change the motor and glowplug in the heater unit for 12V items.

>
>
> Can you get spares like this for the eber heaters?
>
> I presume that it has a fuel pump and/or a metering pump too which
> might have to be replaced. Along with the mean looking control
> unit/relay thing that they have (if theyre like the 101 petrol ones)


You can, but it is the the control box, fuel metering pump, blower
motor, voltage regulation relay and in some case the ignition system
will have to be modified.

(from their website)

Which works out to be (as well as a a lot of hassle) plain uneconomic!

Cheers

Peter
 
On 28 Nov 2005 01:25:26 -0800, "puffernutter"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Firstly the battery drain is not huge. Start up is the worst at 11.25A
>(due to heating the glowplug I suspect),


For how long?

>the ongoing power for the fan
>then drives the consumption which is quoted at 1.25A for boost


How long

> and only
>0.4A when running at low/medium power. This is of course at 24v.


96W, this is within the capability of a laptop dc step up supply from
a cigar lighter socket.

Maybe 2 12v gel cells for the duration, charged as per Dave's diagram,
of the startup and then use the laptop charger.

Vanson 120W model at about 20 quid, don't know how long it would last
though, runs my Acer OK.

AJH

 
And when it gets really cold it is a three dog night. Dogs in the back is
one way of warming the cabin I suppose :)

--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes



"puffernutter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I have an interesting problem (all of my own making!)

To give a bit of background. In this weather my defender 110 CSW (19J
engine) struggles to heat the cabin. When travelling down a motorway
it just about keeps up, when down on the A and minor roads, you just
get colder and colder! In a few months time I will also be having dogs
sleeping in the back of the car through the night, so I wanted a way of
keeping the car warm separate (or additional to) the engine.

Prior to the recent thread I had been exploring diesel heaters and they
seemed an ideal solution. The problem was that at this time of year
the 12v versions were going for quite a premium. So I bought a 24v
version from eBay. (Just waiting for it to arrive).

This was bought deliberately (it was about £140 cheaper than the
equivalent 12v version!) and I now need to see how to provide the 24v
in the car for the diesel heater (in fact, providing it is easy, that's
just a second battery, keeping that second battery charged is the more
interesting problem!)

I think there are three options and there are pros and cons to all. I
would appreciate your views on the various options and whether any of
you have a similar problem and how you have solved it.

Firstly the battery drain is not huge. Start up is the worst at 11.25A
(due to heating the glowplug I suspect), the ongoing power for the fan
then drives the consumption which is quoted at 1.25A for boost and only
0.4A when running at low/medium power. This is of course at 24v.

So options:

Option 1 -

Weekly charge of second battery. Probably the simplest option and just
needs to be a good habit to get into. Remove the second battery once a
week and charge it overnight. With the drains quoted above, even
leaving the heater on all night shouldn't have a major drain on that
battery. The downside is the hassle of removing the battery once a
week. (This could be done through an isolation switch and an external
socket and may be the way that I go)

Option 2 -
Fit a 24v alternator (is one done for the 19J?) and charge both
batteries at once. Slightly more complicated and there will be a need
to uprate the charging light bulb to 24v. Also the batteries, even if
across the 24v will never charge equally. Remainder of car stays at
12v. Are there any issues I've missed?

Option 3 -
Fit a clever change over circuit that allows the 12v alternator to
alternately charge each battery. The lions share of the charge should
go on the "car" battery with occasional time for the supplementary
battery. For example I would expect that after initial starting there
is a minimum of 20 mins charging the main battery and then say and
uneven cycle of say 2 mins on the supplemantary batteyr and 6 minutes
on the main battery.

Possible problems as it is far more complicated and the risk of stray
(high current!) paths.

OK, I could have spent more and saved all this hassle, but what the
heck, this is an interesting challenge.

So any thoughts, comments, insults :)

Cheers

Peter

1990 110 CSW (Reggie the Veggie)
1959 Farina A40
1964 Rover P4 110
1974 Hillman Imp


 

puffernutter wrote:

> I have an interesting problem (all of my own making!)
>
> To give a bit of background. In this weather my defender 110 CSW (19J
> engine) struggles to heat the cabin. When travelling down a motorway
> it just about keeps up, when down on the A and minor roads, you just
> get colder and colder!


There's something wrong with your heater. Either that or your door fit
is measured in feet, not inches....

Your heater matrix may be sludged up - try flushing it out. Also,
make sure the bowden cable outers are not broken at the ends and not
allowing full movement. Make sure the heater operates at all it's
speeds. If you still need more heat then think about getting a scoop
to force air through the matrix - llama 4x4 do them amongst others.

> In a few months time I will also be having dogs
> sleeping in the back of the car through the night, so I wanted a way of
> keeping the car warm separate (or additional to) the engine.


Well, you could make things better in the mean time by getting the
engine heater working as it should! Our old dog (collie/lab) would
have hated a warm car - insisted on sleeping outside every day of his
life, only shelter a old hen house, he wouldn't even sleep on a
blanket.

Regards

William MacLeod

 
In message <[email protected]>
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> puffernutter wrote:
>
> > I have an interesting problem (all of my own making!)
> >
> > To give a bit of background. In this weather my defender 110 CSW (19J
> > engine) struggles to heat the cabin. When travelling down a motorway
> > it just about keeps up, when down on the A and minor roads, you just
> > get colder and colder!

>
> There's something wrong with your heater. Either that or your door fit
> is measured in feet, not inches....
>
> Your heater matrix may be sludged up - try flushing it out. Also,
> make sure the bowden cable outers are not broken at the ends and not
> allowing full movement. Make sure the heater operates at all it's
> speeds. If you still need more heat then think about getting a scoop
> to force air through the matrix - llama 4x4 do them amongst others.
>
> > In a few months time I will also be having dogs
> > sleeping in the back of the car through the night, so I wanted a way of
> > keeping the car warm separate (or additional to) the engine.

>
> Well, you could make things better in the mean time by getting the
> engine heater working as it should! Our old dog (collie/lab) would
> have hated a warm car - insisted on sleeping outside every day of his
> life, only shelter a old hen house, he wouldn't even sleep on a
> blanket.
>
> Regards
>
> William MacLeod
>


Put you hands "in" the dash board next to the instruments - is it cold
when going along? If so, the vents are not sealing - this can feel just
like te heater is not working well. Get a helper to move the control
levers while you push the vent shut. This is an annual pre-winter
event on my 110 and transforms the cabin temperature.

Worth a try.........

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
In article <2a52d24d%[email protected]>, beamendsltd
<[email protected]> writes
>Put you hands "in" the dash board next to the instruments - is it cold
>when going along? If so, the vents are not sealing - this can feel just
>like te heater is not working well. Get a helper to move the control
>levers while you push the vent shut. This is an annual pre-winter
>event on my 110 and transforms the cabin temperature.


I noticed this afternoon that when the windscreen <--> cabin lever was
all the way down (nominally sending hot air over my knees), a high
proportion was still coming out of the windscreen vents.

I don't doubt this is normal, but do the team think it's a fault?

Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/
 
On or around Wed, 30 Nov 2005 17:23:41 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Put you hands "in" the dash board next to the instruments - is it cold
>when going along? If so, the vents are not sealing - this can feel just
>like te heater is not working well. Get a helper to move the control
>levers while you push the vent shut. This is an annual pre-winter
>event on my 110 and transforms the cabin temperature.


I used to put insulating tape on the outside to seal 'em in cold weather.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Soon shall thy arm, unconquered steam! afar Drag the slow barge, or
drive the rapid car; Or on wide-waving wings expanded bear the
flying chariot through the field of air.- Erasmus Darwin (1731-1802)
 
On Wed, 30 Nov 2005 18:46:25 +0000, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On or around Wed, 30 Nov 2005 17:23:41 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd
><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>Put you hands "in" the dash board next to the instruments - is it cold
>>when going along? If so, the vents are not sealing - this can feel just
>>like te heater is not working well. Get a helper to move the control
>>levers while you push the vent shut. This is an annual pre-winter
>>event on my 110 and transforms the cabin temperature.

>
>I used to put insulating tape on the outside to seal 'em in cold weather.


Using the same logic i was considering duct taping round my doors and
then climbing in and out through the back of the landy...

 
Back
Top