200tdi transplant overcooling compared to 2.5na?

guys,

Just changed my 2.5na to a defender spec 200tdi.

Now my heating in the NA was fantastic I had to turn it down often and temp gauge would get up to 1/2 to 3/4 and not budge.

Now the new TDi is a bit different - it gets warm but not really hot.

I fitted a new rad, electric fan, thermostat and all that. I did t use britpart lol.

The temp gauge gets up to about 1/3rd of the gauge - warm air comes out the heater, but not near as hot as the NA.

Is this because the rad etc is new so everything is working properly?

The fan hasnt been needed at any point. The hoses get warm at the top and cold returning from the rad, the expansion bottle stays cold (the NA it got warm).

Is this what a 200tdi is like or is something amiss?

I am thinking about changing the thermostat in case it isn't closing totally or something and I have ordered an infra-red thermometer to check what temps the coolant actually gets to etc.

I would have thought the turbo engine would get hotter but is it the other way round?

Ed

Have you fitted the correct stat? the correct one has an extra bit on the bottom that shuts off the bypass circuit.
You mention 200 and 300 in your post, which is correct?
A proper capilliary temp gauge will tell you exactly what is going on.

Sorry meant 200, typo lol

Yep correct 88' new oem stat fitted

Oh well if its a 200 you are fooked best buy some thermals

I have one sat on my drive was my everyday car for 4 years, start of journey 3.5 miles through town (40degc if lucky), then a 50mph blast for a mile (60/70degc) before a long steep hill, the stat would open (93/4 degc) 1/3rd of the way up the hill then temp would drop back to 87degc and the heater would be lovely, then over the other side for roughly 5 miles all downhill and 30 mph, in the winter the temp would drop to 75degc and the heater was quite frankly ****e.

Rad muff is essential bit of kit, but even that doesnt help much in the winter, weirdly if you work the engine hard off road it can get very hot very quickly even when is z=sub zero outside so you need to keep an eye on the temp gauge, proper one not the std affair

Very best top mod is the mini capillairy temp gauge from ebay as it tells you exactly what is going on, I have one on both my 200tdi in different cars and both pretty much agree with each other on the same routes.

Ps on mine thats new rad, all new hoses and stat, still the same

This is the gauge, some searching might find a better price?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIM-52mm-...hash=item20fdea3f35:m:mMDByrtDiLASZGoVOXt-Hwg

Just had another thought, good story on mine new stat drove 12 miles to work thought this is a bit warm?
drove 12 miles home later on and twigged the new stat was stuck shut, so thats 12 miles with no extra cooling water apart from whats in the block, normal car would have seized solid.

lynall said:

Ps on mine thats new rad, all new hoses and stat, still the same

This is the gauge, some searching might find a better price?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIM-52mm-...hash=item20fdea3f35:m:mMDByrtDiLASZGoVOXt-Hwg

Click to expand...

Cheers dude that's useful, I like the look of that gauge.

Will fiddle with the stat etc see what happens. May pick up that gauge though - looks ace.

Right
Right, deffo stat stuck open, or partially open, after 5 mins of driving I had 56c temp water in the rad top pipe and the bypass pipe - so the thermostat is either opening early or is stuck open, so will change it.

Lets hope its that simple, dont forget some heat will travel up the top hose due to the closeness of the heat source and the bleed nipple in the stat.
The coolant runs through the bypass all the time until the stat is fully open.
If it works let us know as I will treat myself to another stat.

lynall said:

Lets hope its that simple, dont forget some heat will travel up the top hose due to the closeness of the heat source and the bleed nipple in the stat.
The coolant runs through the bypass all the time until the stat is fully open.
If it works let us know as I will treat myself to another stat.

Click to expand...

Yeah I wondered that to so went out in it again but this time measured the temp at the rad end - same result.

Will update when my new stat arrives and also examine the old one

Time to give the kettle a work out, dont tell the missus!

lynall said:

Time to give the kettle a work out, dont tell the missus!

Click to expand...

Haha yes - when she is at work the dishwasher also makes an ace parts washer

Right,

Old stat out - test boil on the stove and it was open fully by 74c so was obviously faulty. I am going to keep it in case we have super hot summer or something.

New star in and idling on the drive gave me half way up the temp gauge (rather than a 1/4) and warmer heaters.

Off for a drive to see how it does now

flat said:

Right,

Old stat out - test boil on the stove and it was open fully by 74c so was obviously faulty. I am going to keep it in case we have super hot summer or something.

New star in and idling on the drive gave me half way up the temp gauge (rather than a 1/4) and warmer heaters.

Off for a drive to see how it does now

Click to expand...

Which make of stat did you buy?

Thor1950 said:

did you wrap it around the transmission, or lay it on the floor? You wrap a blanket around something and it will hold heat

Click to expand...

lynall said:

Which make of stat did you buy?

Click to expand...

Bearmach both times. May try a genuine waxstat its only £7 ish

Thanks I will go on the hunt for one, why I dont know as I dont use the 90 anymore, but am now curios!

i forgot to put my stat back in when changing over the thermostat housing and she still gets nice and warm on a decent drive, took it 14 miles before an mot today and she got nice and warm, ive started leaving the fan on the thermo switch so it comes on and goes off when it likes.

Okay aged about with stats this morning.

1 original bearmach - fully open by 74c so faulty.

2 replacement bearmach I fitted the other day. Fully open by 84c so better than the original but at spec

3 stumped up £7 for a genuine waxstat one and started to open at 88c and fully open by 92c so perfect within LR spec.

So the non-oem ones for £4 are not worth it when you can get a genuine for £7